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Thanks. I just went ahead and paid the exorbitant prices to get a new pair from Amazon. Pricy but I've got winter on the way and need to use the trailer for a few things before the snow hits.

Thanks. I'm guessing the connectors aren't available new anywhere? I can go look for V6 caddies in my area and probably fab this up myself if I can find one. Got model / year recommendations?

@88mjsally I'd like to buy one of these from you. Are they still available?

If you haven't done it yet, the ZJ fan clutch on the mechanical fan is a worthwhile upgrade. That plus a new shroud made a huge difference on my truck. It'll clear with the CSF 3-row radiator, can't speak to any others. It's cheap enough you can buy one, test fit it, and return if your radiator interferes. NAPA part #272310. Why is it better? The ZJ didn't have an electric fan so got a different fan clutch on the mechanical fan. It spins the fan faster.

True story. Adirondack Park is beautiful.

Yup, still have both, but I'm in the middle of a move up to the Adirondack Mountains at the moment. Last week the Jeep flat towed my Porsche 914 up there and this weekend she's flat towing my Beetle up and that'll be my final trip - the Jeep will be living in New York State for good. I can't wait for the joy of getting her to pass a NYS inspection. 😒 Anyway, sorry we missed each other.

Haha, definitely! My vehicles are rarely sitting still. I've just rolled over 156k on the truck. Bought her at 114k. Almost all overland trip miles. We've been to EJS twice, run the DBBB, made plenty of ski trips and just generally had a grand old time.

Not a bad idea...

That looks great! Agree the Snomaster is a bit tall. The Dometic was what I've had my eye on but it's a tad wide at 9.3". Wonder how that extra .65" per side would fit between the bolsters on the buckets.

Sounds like I oughta be able to fit one of these in: https://www.snomasterusa.com/product/traveler-series-bd-c12-12l-dc-portable-fridge-freezer/

Just realized I haven't updated this thread in years. Some recent upgrades: Dual diaphragm booster 1 1/8" MC Wilwood 4-piston front brakes All new rear drums, shoes and hardware 4.56 gears with Detroit TrueTracs front and rear Biggest Spicer 5-260X U-joints you can buy up-front in the Dana 30 (eventually want to do new axle shafts that accept larger U-joints, I'm tired of pressing these in/out of the beat up old yokes) Cobra 75 WX ST CB installed under the dash with 4 foot FireStik mounted on the driver's side under-hood style mount Converted to open cooling w/ 3-row brass radiator, used NOS 2.5L Renix overflow bottle next to the air filter box Upgraded electric fan to 97-01 style WJ fan clutch upgrade 140 amp Powermaster alternator 90-91 Renix ECU 90-91 TCU JW Speaker 5x7" heated headlights (these are brighter than most light bars I've seen, highly recommend, and the heated feature helps with the snow that tends to collect in our headlight buckets) Smittybilt roof rack over the cab using rain gutter mounts - shovel and axe mounted to rack as well as Maxtrax Upcoming upgrades / fixes: Bucket seat conversion Center console fridge? Rear disc conversion Time to fix ye olde cowl / passenger floorboard leak Probably do a new blower motor and heater core while I have that side of the dash apart New windshield - old one has been cracked for years. I'm moving to the Adirondacks and the winter there is definitely going to make sure that crack spiders out. Interior heat and soundproofing - PO ripped it all out and rhinolined it. It gets too hot and too loud. Trying to decide whether to go with LizardSkin or actual dynamat etc. New suspension - rear springs are sagging and it's time Single DIN CarPlay head unit Got a rust spot on the passenger side of the bed that needs dealt with Looking into new campers to replace the Wildernest at some point - if I keep the 'nest I will at least redo the interior with a Goose Gear setup New bumpers front and rear - ARB bull bar in the front to get the winch out of the radiator airflow (and to protect from deer strikes in the mountains where I'll be living), MantaRay rear bumper from DirtBound to add cutouts for better reversing lights, built-in license plate area, and better hitch receiver (also will eliminate current tire carrier and mount tire under the truck for easier access into the camper. Tire carrier took some gnarly hits in Moab and is jacked up anyway)

Rad! Thanks!

I agree with @ghetdjc320. I have that kit in my truck right now and I have the big 4 piston Wilwoods up front, with the stock metric ton 10x2.5" drums out back (but recently refreshed) and the bore is still too big. I'm going to rear discs in the near future and if it's not better with those, I'll probably go down to the 1" MC (but keep the booster).

Thanks, Pete! I was hoping someone could measure the actual width. If I can swing it I want to put a console fridge in there and those are fairly wide. Having an ice cold coke on the road without getting out and into the camper sounds great to me. 😅

After topping my previous record by spending 6 days in the same week on the road in my truck (I’m moving cross country and the MJ has pulled towing duty) I’m finally giving serious thought to ditching the bench seat for some buckets with better lumbar support. Can someone with XJ buckets in their rig measure the distance between the two seats for me? I’m wondering what kind of space I’d have to work with when fitting center console options. I know the full XJ console fits, but would probably look to fit an aftermarket console of some kind. Thanks!

Because these parts are NLA and even used ones are all very old plastic, the nipple on the back where the water line attaches tends to break off eventually. I gave up and drilled two holes in the factory flat spot for the squirters on the cowl and threaded in a pair of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MB7EXW6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They work great and honestly are way more effective than the factory squirter.

Thanks for the sanity check. Sho nuff, leak on the tank end return line. Now to decide if I'm going to fix as is or do a full replacement with AN and speedflex. 💰

Thanks, it's had a tune up in the last year. I'll warm it up later and go over the fuel lines carefully. 4.10s would be awesome, but they're over the carrier break, so my re-gearing project has been on hold for a while.

True, and I'll check. Just thinking that that would result in low pressure in the rail, lean conditions, and the ECU adding fuel.

Also, wouldn't I expect to see LTFT rich if it was losing fuel? It would add fuel to compensate, no?

I haven't thoroughly examined that yet, but I have zero dripping leaks, and it's too cold here for a vapor leak to be likely, but I'll inspect all of that anyway.

I've got an '87 Renix 4.0, 746 injectors, on 32s and stock 3.55 gearing. The bigger tires on stock gearing are not a recipe for great MPG numbers, but it's not absurd either. Last year after the injector upgrade and a new NTK O2 sensor, I saw 15-17mpg (with a speedo gear that's just slightly off, so I believe it to be more like 16-18 based on GPS mileage) depending on terrain and cruising speed. Heck, I hit 17mpg climbing out of the San Juan Mountains in Colorado/New Mexico. Over the past year it's gotten worse, and recently it hit about 12mpg. I also started noticing it holding a gear too long, which I narrowed down to a bad TPS, and replaced and reset to 17%. That all works great now. But, now I'm seeing it go lower and it hit 10.6mpg on the latest fuel up. I've got a Renix Engine Monitor (h/t @NickInTimeFilms for the hookup). It shows good O2 heater voltage, the engine goes into closed loop as it should, and I see the O2 sensor swing correctly. CTS and IAT readings look normal. My LTFT (long-term fuel trim) is low, around 110-115, but not way low. I would expect something around there for 746 injectors, no? So, is that a good LTFT number? And what other things should I check/replace to track down the MPG issue? EDIT: Also running an '89-90 ECU and TCU. Thanks, Brandon

Well, folks, I've searched the archives and the most recent rock rails threads are fairly old and reference products that don't seem to be in production anymore. Here are my requirements: Bolt-on Fits a shortbed MJ without modification Kick-out for use as a step for shorter passengers Available in less than 30 days turnaround Available options right now seem to be: https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/XJSL/MJSL-CL.html http://www.rocky-road.com/cherokee-xj-rock-sliders.html Anyone bought one of these products recently have any input on which is a better fit and better made?

Been a busy few weeks but I managed to spend a little time on the Jeep this weekend. Both interior lights were missing when I got the truck. I was handed one by the previous owner but it was in pretty rough shape. Got brand new Euramtec A-7180-BC LED lights installed on both sides. I had to Dremel out a bit of the original trim plastic to make these fit, but they look like they could have come stock on the truck. I also unlocked a major achievement in learning how the heck to crimp MetriPack 150 terminal pins. The radio harness in the dash was hacked up by a previous owner and I wanted to put it back to factory so I can use the nice harness adapters available from Crutchfield now and in the future to quickly change stereos. I plan to keep a nice modern JVC unit in there most of the time but want the option to put a period correct radio in there for car shows and the like. Back to stock: I have a new stereo and harness adapter ready to go in next week along with new front and rear speakers. I'll also be adding the missing door check to the driver's side door while I have the door card off to do the speaker. Also managed to track down an actual vintage 1987 Tennessee license plate for Davidson County (where I live) and I'm going down to the clerk's office this week to officially put that on the truck!