Jump to content
jeep_pieces

5.9L 360 conversion with all factory gauges

Recommended Posts

The frame on my 91 jeep comanche rotted out.  It was to the point it was easier to build a new complete frame from cab back than try to repair existing rust.  The following is the journey up until now. This pic is the before I am still working towards the after pic.

IMG00003-20090325-1626.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
59 minutes ago, jeep_pieces said:

The frame on my 91 jeep comanche rotted out.  It was to the point it was easier to build a new complete frame from cab back than try to repair existing rust.  The following is the journey up until now. This pic is the before I am still working towards the after pic.

IMG00003-20090325-1626.jpg

The center console I started before the frame rotted out

IMAG0011.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice work, but one comment:   sealing up boxed sections of a frame is a VERY bad idea.   Moisture that is inside the frame at time of welding can now just sit there and go to work creating rust.   This is one of the big issues that plagued early unibody cars.

 

It's MUCH better to have vent holes, and plenty of them.   Ideally, they should be at least 1/2 inch in diameter, and located on bottom surfaces where water can run out..   Just make sure you locate them where wheel splash won't force road dirt mixed with water into those vent holes.

 

I know this sounds very counter-intuitive, but you will have FAR less rust on frame with plenty of open holes for air circulation that you will on one that is all sealed up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd agree with having the vent/drain holes in the frame if you can.  Also, you can get spray cans of rust proofing paint specifically set up with a long flexible nozzle designed to paint the inside of tubing.  They're great for painting the inside of frames that have holes like factory frames do.

 

One example:  https://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Internal-Coating-Aerosol-Nozzle/dp/B00MROX1J4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Already wired in.  Just got computer programmed.  The goal is to make look as if it could have come from the factory.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, jeep_pieces said:

The goal is to make look as if it could have come from the factory.

I appreciate that. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I absolutely love this build! That fact that it will look factory is amazing. Good work!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow fantastic work!  Someone mentioned about the moisture in your excellent X frame being sealed.  If you put a Schrader valve on it and inerted it with Nitrogen or any inert gas it would not rust either.  Great job!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Before it was welded to the cab having that whole section galvanized would meant it would never rust again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Orginal Tach works and accurate 

Used oil pressure sending unit for 96 XJ

Used fuel sending unit out of 96 XJ mounted it to 98zj fuel assembly 

Only guage left it temp sensor, don't know it I want it in motor or in radiator still working on location

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...