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Well aside from doing the power lock project I decided to use some tax return money and get myself something I have been eyeing for a bit.

 

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It is a Downey Products tonneau cover. Set me back $300 but it was definitely worth it. I am impressed with its quality and design. Perfect for going places and hiding stuff away without worrying about some on lookers eyeballing your stuff in the bed. That should give me piece of mind about my stuff. 

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22 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

Well aside from doing the power lock project I decided to use some tax return money and get myself something I have been eyeing for a bit.

 

IMG_7136.thumb.jpg.18c67bf917f32a096c9832e5e1a558df.jpg

IMG_7138.jpg.434234c76f0d323976b0b81ce2b19edb.jpg

 

It is a Downey Products tonneau cover. Set me back $300 but it was definitely worth it. I am impressed with its quality and design. Perfect for going places and hiding stuff away without worrying about some on lookers eyeballing your stuff in the bed. That should give me piece of mind about my stuff. 

It might be the best mod I’ve done to my truck. 

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They started using relays with the door switches in 91. I strongly, strongly recommend you use them. The Renix years are infamous for their weak power locks. Use proper relay sockets, not quick connect terminals.

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Thanks JT.

 

Well I went to AMC salvage to snag what I could find on my list. Came back with more than I anticipated finding and working for. Snagged a few chrome metal handles painted one black already:

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It is coming out quite nice. Managed to snag a power lock and window harness with relays so as per Minuit I will cut it up and modify it to use on my power locks. Snagged a few other things, black mini console, right side only cab vents which was odd to find only the rights in the back of an XJ under interior, MJ back panel, silver dash bezels, cordovan illuminated visor, cruise control pieces and some lights for my XJ. Oh also got these door protector pieces:

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They were chrome but didn't want that so I painted them too. I never have seen these before and all the XJ rear doors had their own too. 

 

Hopefully I will do more today but we shall see, Plan is to tear apart the interior again and replace the rear speakers with the right size speaker for the brackets and replace the door seals and put in some sound deadener. 

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Just now, CoastChief said:

Is it possible for you to make a cartboard cut out of the back interior panel? they seem really easy to remake. I just have never seen one in person yet or have come close to obtaining one

I can make a cut out for ya...I literally had my hands on a warped navy blue one yesterday, literally, at AMC salvage. I thought about bringing it home anyways but I wasn't sure if any one would've wanted a warped one. 

 

I can make a cut out or I can go get that one Monday for ya.

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Metal door handles are complete and have been installed on both sides. (these are gonna burn in the summer, doh)

 

Lock actuators, switches and wiring are in on both sides and have been fed through the rubber plug to the interior.

 

Looking forward to tearing apart the interior this weekend to put in some sound deadening, proper size rear speakers and feed the wiring harness under the carpet. And ill be sure to snap a pic of my clean floors while there.(I was wrong)

Edited by eaglescout526
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Who knew that adding power locks meant drying out the insulation from the hurricane like rain(on the passenger side) to removing cancer on the drivers side floor. Damn these trucks rot from the inside out. So shame to say that Little Red became susceptible to rust and floor replacement, even west coast trucks are not immune. Ill post pics tomorrow as my dad and I just finished the floor today. 

 

Finally replaced the 30 year old weather strip which clearly needed to be done badly. Power locks will be wired in with relays as per recommendation. Insulation/sound deadener is being added to help with AC and vibrations/sound. 

 

Honestly, my heart sank a little when we started the patch repair, I knew Pete always said check under and the first time I did, it only looked like surface rust until this go around some decent sized holes showed up. But shes got some patches in and should last another 30 years. Passenger side has only minimal rust thank goodness.

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Rust is a terrible thing. No MJ is special enough to escape its curse.

 

Thank Jeep for putting $#!&ty water-absorbing jute padding under the carpet, making a cowl design that will leak water at the slightest provocation through all possible orifices, using clutch master cylinders that eventually leak and drip paint-eating brake fluid onto the floor, and more. Many cars are designed in a way that the cowl will not leak water through the firewall even if the seals are compromised, but Jeep didn't think that was necessary.

 

There is almost certainly more rust hiding under that angled frame brace that you can't see. Drill the spot welds and take a look before you regret not doing it.

 

The #1 thing you can do to prevent it from happening again is re-seal the entire bulkhead. Pack the bulkhead connector full of silicone grease (clean it out while you're there), make sure the evaporator drain is clear, re-make all firewall gaskets, and replace any components that need replacing. All holes in the cab should be considered leaks until you can verify that they are not. Verify all other seals as well, but the firewall is the main thing. Make for damn sure your clutch master isn't leaking - that's the reason my 89 does not have a driver side floor.

 

The #2 thing is get rid of any sponges from the floor. Use closed-cell foam under the carpet instead of jute padding. It won't absorb water. Adding mass-loaded vinyl over that will dampen way more sound than any amount of dynamat will. While I'm at it, Dynamat and all of the other household duct products people use can trap water too, if the adhesive isn't perfectly rolled on. I'm gonna have to reskin my driver door on my 91 because of this. The pathetic attempt at factory sound deadening material started coming up at the top, water dripped into it, and it just stayed there until it started to rust the doorskin out.

 

 

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Minuit. What you said has been duly noted, unfortunately I fear I may have to go back and do some more in the future. But I lack time and a second vehicle, I am willing to bet that the door weatherstrips failed. But I will do a water down to see any leaks before reassembly today. Surprisingly though the frame is really clean, not sure how long that will last but over time I will make sure to reseal everything. 

 

Before

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during

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after

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Door locks are finished and work as they should. 

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