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About Pirate_Staz

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    Comanche Fan

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    Chandler, Arizona

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  1. August 20th 2019: Ta-da! Taillights came out better than I could have hoped for. I wanted to do some black accents but I was afraid of messing up what I had already done and personally I think this looks really nice as it is. It matches my D-rings and goes really well with the black already on the truck I think. here's some pics comparing the new ones to the old ones but mostly the drivers side because that one cleaned up and came out much better. I got these from Kook911 in a trade for some bushwacker fender flares I didnt plan on using so all in all I think it was a pretty good deal. (and no I don't have a taillight out my truck uses the OBD II systems so its wired like a cherokee. Top light is ambient and brake, middle is turn signal, bottom is reverse. Yes I do plan on fixing this so that both top and middle act as ambient and brake)
  2. I didnt do anything different with the new seal but now it doesn't leak so 3rd times the charm I guess! I probably rolled the 2nd seal without noticing it get rolled but now after replacing it again and taking it on the highway a few times today and parking with no leakage id say we're good to go.
  3. ayyy another one! I'm in chandler :)
  4. I was able to hammer it (gently) back together a bit tighter and when I put it back on it fit tightly. Granted the seal kept leaking so I replaced the seal again and through some magic occurrence it doesnt leak this time. I find it best not to question these things but my guess is I somehow also rolled the second seal like I did the first one even though i couldn't see it and somehow the 3rd one didnt get rolled. Either way its fixed and doesnt leak anymore AND the snap ring is back in place securely!
  5. Thats fair, I mostly didnt mention it because Ive had it like that long enough that sometimes I forget. Ill be more specific in the future though!
  6. I replaced my Tcase rear output shaft seal yesterday and after driving home it essentially leaked all over the driveshaft which in turn spun it all over the bottom of my truck. I'm confident the seal is in there correctly but I do know for a fact the lock ring was bent when I was taking it off so when i put it back on it didn't sit as tightly as before. Before I took it off you could barely get it to rotate without the help of a screwdriver or something. After I took it off changed the seal and put it back on it was loose enough to move with your fingers, not loose enough to slide off on its own but loose enough to not sit and stay. Theres also a washer in there that, when I took it off was behind said lock ring (i.e. seal -> washer -> lock ring -> oil slinger shield) but when I put it back on i did the seal -> lock ring -> washer -> oil slinger shield because thats how the guy in this video I watched did it: So I guess my question is, is that lock ring more important than I thought? Is it sitting there to keep pressure on the seal so that it doesn't leak? Does anybody have a part number for it I can look up so that I can get it changed out? I'm just stumped because this is a brand new seal and I'm losing a lot of tcase fluid from it. here's a picture I took before I removed all the old stuff so that you can see what it looked like before, currently the washer is in front of the lock ring and the lock ring is much looser than this:
  7. Back to the drawing board it still leaks i don't even know why anymore because the seal is brand new
  8. August 16th 2019: Started work on getting my new non-cracked taillights all prettied up. I wet sanded with 2000 grit all around until they were nice and hazy, taped them off how I saw fit and sprayed them down with some black Rustoleum plastic primer. . I did 2 coats of that and let them dry but before they were 100% dried I hit them with a few coats of Rustoleum metallic paint. After that's finished drying my plans are to tape up some of the metallic paint and hit the small areas with black again to add some accents like you see below. After I do that Ill hit em with a few coats each of dupli-color clear acrylic UV protection until they're nice and shiny and we should have some fancy "new" taillights!
  9. August 16th 2019: Finally re-did the leaky T-case rear output shaft seal and changed the fluids. It only took me a day and a half longer than it should have too! Turns out the original seal I bought wasnt correct so I had to go find another one, only I couldnt. It took me a solid few hours to locate the seal I needed for my Np231J because every seal I could find was too small and was meant for the np231 that has the longer output shaft housing. For those of you who may be in the same position as me the parts numbers for O'Reillys is #710663 and it is a National seal. The parts number for NAPA is #18108 and it is an SKF seal. The parts number for MOPAR and CROWN is #4798117 and they are, well CROWN and MOPAR seals. That being said, I got back from O'Reilly's around 8:30PM to put the seal on and wouldnt ya know it, I messed it up. My guess is that I didnt have enough lubrication around the seal and output shaft because the inner part of the seal where a coil spring rests got inverted and by the time i had the seal seated all the way in I realized it was practically inside out. Whoops. By this point all the autoshops around me had closed so I had to call my friend to give me a ride home as I did this at work thinking it wouldnt be that big of a deal. Day 2 I had my girlfriend drive me out to work but not before stopping at NAPA as I had heard the SKF seal was a bit better and also to pick up some more lubrication (I used NAPA Sil-Glyde #765-1351). After she had left I went to work putting on the new seal and it slipped right on. I tapped it into place and reveled in the absolute mental freedom that my jeep would no longer be FWD only and I could reattach the driveshaft. P.S. the lock ring is a pain and you definitely should get lock ring pliers or you might end up chewing the metal ring up. Also its worth noting that probably only a quarter of fluid came out of my Tcase compared to amount I put in so it was definitely time to do this job as it probably all leaked out from that leaky seal I had.
  10. been a few months but i assure you me and eaglescout526 are still very much interested in finding you other AZ wheelers!
  11. sorry for the late reply, yes I did! goin on the camper shell later this month when I get it all prettied up
  12. Would you all like to know what the answer turned out to be? Well you might want to sit down for this because apparently the previous owner purposefully clogged the vents and lines in my tank with glue. why? I have no idea! I ended up clearing out the charcoal canister, replacing the lines and cleaning the vents completely as they were all just gunked and nastied up. My only guess as to why they did this was that maybe they were having some trouble with it passing emissions or something. I'm also guessing the reason why I never noticed until it started getting hot outside was because the gas wasnt getting hot enough to expand in the tank to tell me that there was an issue. Regardless its all cleaned out now and my truck feels much, much faster. So much faster its not even funny who knew that a fuel vent line could slow someone down so much. On the down side I think its running rich as even though everything is hooked up properly I can occasionally get a whif of gas fumes at a stop light that usually goes away after a second. I also believe its running rich as if I don't let it warm up a bit after a cold start it bogs down as soon as I get into 2nd gear and tries to stall out on me. Its not that big a deal though I just let it warm up before taking off now. So yea, after all these years of driving I can still keep my "didnt overfill a gas tank" club member card. EDIT: It actually might be my battery as I just realized its been a long time since its been replaced so maybe its not running rich but instead the alternator doesn't have enough charge on a cold start to keep everything alive, guess Ill change the battery and we'll see
  13. my drivetrain is out of a 96 cherokee but its pretty much exactly like that with the exception that my lines also pass thru some emissions thing (for lack of a better term) before getting to the throttle body. Its also plugged into the throttle body directly not the airbox. maybe I'm bad at wording things but I hope that makes sense.
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