Choosing Comanche?

[aglass0fmilk]

Hi guys!

 

I'm from over in Buffalo NY in the rust belt. Out there Comanches seem hard to find, especially without rust. Those without rust seem to sell for a fortune.

 

Right now I have a 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport (4.0L w/ Auto, 4wd), Forest Green. It's in good shape, no rust out and still has the factory undercoating! I've only had it a year and drove it around last winter. Took it on a ski trip to Lake Placid and man is it fun to drive in the snow. Has around 140,000 miles.

 

I'm out in the Bay Area in California for an internship until December and I'm thinking about buying a Comanche out here and driving it the 3,000 miles back to Buffalo. Then I'd probably sell my Cherokee... I have too many cars already. (If it interests you, I have a 1973 MGB GT that I just restored, a 1980 MGB Convertible that needs restoring, and a 1973 GMC Motorhome my grandfather bought new, needs some TLC).

 

If they still sold them new I know how I'd fill out the option sheet.

 

I'd love to get a diesel but I hear those are super rare. So I'd probably settle for a 4.0L or maybe one of the 4-cyl options (what do you guys recommend?). I want a 4/5-speed manual and it absolutely needs 4-wheel drive (Buffalo winters :eek:  ). I'd prefer a short bed for MPG.

 

The long bed would make more sense and if it doesn't hurt MPG too much. Not much of a concern. 

 

If I could find one with a bed cap then I could throw my mattress in the back and sleep there ;)

 

Let me know your thoughts on swapping my Cherokee for a Comanche, good options or problems to look for, and buying on the west coast vs. the east coast, and driving it across the country!

 

For your trouble, here's some pictures of my other vehicles:

[Pete M]

short bed and long bed weight practically the same.  if you ever intend on sleeping in it, the longbed is worth the extra space.  the diesel is under powered and high maintenance, but rare and so a non-issue.  the 2.5 and 4.0 are both good powerplants if they were cared for.  the 2.5 will give better mpgs.

 

most important, please do not take a rust free truck back to see salt.  just buy one that is already rusting and enjoy it year round for as long as you can. :thumbsup:

[Zebvance]

look for a H.O I believe 90-92? can't remember if 89 got the update or if it is still renix. Bucket seats are always cool in my book and front vent windows and a rear sliding window is something I always wish my truck. That small of a cab doesn't get much air flow on the road with just the windows down. 

[87MJTIM]

91 is HO, 90 is Renix.

 

The first year MJ (86) came with either a 2.5L 4 cyl or a 2.8L V6.  The 2.8 is not considered a desirable engine.  Many 86 owners look to swap to a better engine, either a 3.4 from Chevy or perform a 4.0 swap.  Just be aware of the "Red headed step child" of the MJs.

 

For 87 to 89 ½, the 4.0 manuals came from the factory with a BA10/5 5 speed.  In 89 ½, Jeep switched to the AX15 for the 4.0.  Both the BA and AX were internal slave cylinders.  In 94, Jeep changed the AX15 to external slave cylinders.  (These came in the XJ and YJ models.)  The BA is not considered a desirable trans, especially if you plan on off roading it.  If you will just be streeting the MJ, the BA will hold up well.  (Just be prepared to change the internal slaves every few years.) 

 

Find out from a PO what modification/changes/upgrades were done: lifts, re-gearing axles, etc.

 

There is a wealth of info and knowledge here on ComancheClub.  Much of the info is written in numerous thread, especially in the DIY section.  Much more of the knowledge is stored in between the ears of many of the members.  Use both sources of the knowledge to help you.

[Minuit]

Your best bet as far as reliability, part availability and interchangeability, and general usability would be to go for a 1991 or 1992 High Output model with the 4.0L engine. These are the rarest model years and by far the most valuable, though. The older 1987-90 fuel injection systems can sometimes be a pain. If you want a stick, prefer mid-1989 build date and later since they came with a far superior transmission. The 4-cylinder's MPG gain is not generally considered to be worth the loss in power over the 4.0. My '91 automatic does a consistent 17.5mpg in mostly highway driving and a manual would probably do slightly better. I see no reason to prefer a shortbed over a longbed unless you park in tight spaces a lot, especially if you plan on sleeping in it.

[aglass0fmilk]

I talked to someone a few hours away selling a 1986 Jeep Comanche.

 

It has the 4-cyl 2.5L with a 5 speed transmission. 4 wheel drive, long bed and comes with a factory camper (is it actually factory option?)

 

Pale yellow (or just sun-faded yellow) with a red interior. It's awesome haha. 

 

[gogmorgo]

I'll add to what everyone else said that if you're mechanically inclined at all, don't be afraid of getting a 2wd if it's the right truck. Like the XJ, the MJ was originally designed as a 4x4, and when they made the 2wds, they just "deleted" the 4x4 parts. Aside from getting the rear driveshaft shortened and possibly drilling some holes for the t-case shifter, it's a bolt-on swap.

 

That looks like one of those custom-built box covers. There were "factory" (dealer-installed usually) bed caps, but they're fibreglass and much cleaner than that job.

[SBpunk]

There have been a few popping up with 4.7 strokers built up to pretty good dailies lately. Think everyone covered everything else. 

[aglass0fmilk]

I found one nearby that I'm gonna go check out. It's not ideal but it's not bad. It's a 1987 Laredo with the 4.0 I6, 4x4, 222k miles but apparently has a rebuilt engine. I like the color (silver).

He wants $2,000

But it has an auto transmission...

Is the process of a manual swap the same as with the Jeep Cherokee? And I would use an AX15 manual trans right? Any threads that could point me in the right direction?

I'm no stranger to mechanical work. Done my fair share of shade tree work and a tranny swap seems like it could be fun.

 

Edit: I also would want to swap to a bench seat from the buckets I think. I like trucks with bench seats. Is this possible?

Let me know. I'm going check it out in a few hours!

Thanks

[Pete M]

http://comancheclub.com/topic/48710-diy-projects-writeups-master-search-index/

 

same as a cherokee.  MJ benches go right in, other brands can be adapted. 

[Minuit]

Yes to both questions. Drivetrain wise, a Comanche is 100% identical to a Cherokee other than the rear axle and rear driveshaft. People sell nice Comanche benches fairly often that will bolt right in. Most people say (and I agree having swapped to buckets from a bench) that the buckets are way more comfortable. The bench seat has its own charm, though.

 

Here's a good thread on another forum that's pretty much doing the exact swap you want (the XJ in the thread is an '89, but it's the same procedure) Or you could do what I did, buy another Comanche with a stick so I had both to choose from  :D

[87MJTIM]

Just a note:

 

An auto, AW4 is longer than an AX15.  The front drive shaft will need to be shortened or a manual trans front drive shaft will be needed.

[RustyRodder]

 

I found one nearby that I'm gonna go check out. It's not ideal but it's not bad. It's a 1987 Laredo with the 4.0 I6, 4x4, 222k miles but apparently has a rebuilt engine. I like the color (silver).

 

He wants $2,000

 

But it has an auto transmission...

 

Is the process of a manual swap the same as with the Jeep Cherokee? And I would use an AX15 manual trans right? Any threads that could point me in the right direction?

 

I'm no stranger to mechanical work. Done my fair share of shade tree work and a tranny swap seems like it could be fun.

 

Edit: I also would want to swap to a bench seat from the buckets I think. I like trucks with bench seats. Is this possible?

 

Let me know. I'm going check it out in a few hours!

 

Thanks

 

 

Trans swap is straightforward, as said.

 

Bench is a relatively simple swap- somebody like me would even trade you theirs for your buckets.

[dasbulliwagen]

I know the manual trans trucks are more fun but the auto that came behind the 4.0 is a really good one the AW4.

[MeanLemons]

Or you could try to trade your XJ for the MJ.

 

At least that's what I did last weekend. I traded my 98 XJ for a 88 MJ pioneer and a 91 MJ eliminator. Yes that's right I traded a XJ for two MJs.

[Minuit]

The AW4 is simply the best automatic transmission I've ever owned. Blah blah blah shift points blah blah blah overheating. The Novak article about the AW4 is a load of crap. The super crappy 3.07 gears the stick trucks got really puts a damper on the fun factor too. Don't get me wrong, I'd rather have a manual any day of the week, but if I was stuck with an auto the AW4 is the one I'd like to be stuck with.

[acerocknroll]

Couple thoughts:

 

Yeah Facebook sucks but I would join every Jeep buy/sell/trade group in your surrounding area. There are a LOT of MJ's that sell there and never even get listed on Craigslist

Don't rush into buying one just because they're hard to find and don't come up for sale often. Don't settle, wait for the "right" one, you'll know it when you find it.

Also I would keep the XJ too :)

 

Nice MG's! My first car was a 1968 MGBGT, which by the way is a TERRIBLE FIRST CAR for a 16 year old lol. Died all the time and I wrecked it when I lost control going around a nasty curve. On the off chance yours have a service sticker anywhere that says "Harry E Hurst III," that's my dad, he ran a shop that specialized in MG's (down in FL, so not likely he ever saw yours but ya never know!) We're talking about building a Sebring edition since he already has the body panels for one.

 

Good luck with your hunt!

[Kwebb9]

I live in northern WI and know all to well of rust. Went looking on CL and found a 91 MJ in CA and had it shipped to Minneapolis for $900 and drove it the last few hundred miles back home. But please, if you find a clean, rust free, never seen winter salt, kind of MJ, Don't drive it in winter!!!!! Get a $500 beater and drive that

[HOrnbrod]

Nice MG's! My first car was a 1968 MGBGT, which by the way is a TERRIBLE FIRST CAR for a 16 year old lol. Died all the time and I wrecked it when I lost control going around a nasty curve. On the off chance yours have a service sticker anywhere that says "Harry E Hurst III," that's my dad, he ran a shop that specialized in MG's (down in FL, so not likely he ever saw yours but ya never know!) We're talking about building a Sebring edition since he already has the body panels for one.

Have had several of them over the years, and my favorite was the 1100 Sport. Great car on the ice with studded front tires. You gotta love the horrible Lucas electricals. You either get smart on fixing circuits, or you don't drive them for long.  :yes:

[Minuit]

A not-so-mechanically-inclined friend of mine had a rusty '78 as his first car. A year later and he got rid of it for a Miata. Wonder why that could be. :D