Alexia Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 Fuel/Ignition Controller - One of the best piggy back controllers available. With it installed the PCM just fires across sensors inside the F/IC and no longer directly controls the fuel injectors. That way the F/IC has complete control over the injectors. The Unichip can't do that. I can see the benefit. It can then modify the MAP, crankshaft position sensor, and camshaft position sensors to make the PCM happy. The Unichip can do that. Also the TPS and IAT signals. But it's fixed over the entire RPM bandwidth. Same for the F/IC? The F/IC only taps into the TPS for reference. Since it only uses strategies to modify the fuel and timing the air flow can be left alone. The F/IC has two extra analog signal modifiers that can be used for sensors such as the IAT. The maps are entirely configurable from RPM break points to being able to do stupid things like make the IAT read 0ºF at 3,000 RPM then suddenly 300ºF at 3,100 RPM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 The maps are entirely configurable from RPM break points...... Unichip can't do anything based on specified RPM. The F/IC sounds much more versatile, and newer better technology. Assume "strategies" are predefined maps? If so, can you create the maps with an ordinary laptop like the Unichip, or is it proprietary, i.e. special equipment needed? Sorry for all the questions, but it sounds really cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 The maps are entirely configurable from RPM break points...... Unichip can't do anything based on specified RPM. The F/IC sounds much more versatile, and newer better technology. Assume "strategies" are predefined maps? If so, can you create the maps with an ordinary laptop like the Unichip, or is it proprietary, i.e. special equipment needed? Sorry for all the questions, but it sounds really cool. http://www.aemelectronics.com/f-ic-6-mag-or-hall-sensors-circuit-driver-inj-load-chrysler-631 I just wander down to the garage with my laptop and plug it in. The software runs on Windows XP through 8.1. We should meet up some time so we can obsess over Comanche stuff. :P By strategies I mean how the unit operates. Some piggy packs play tricks with the MAP/TPS/IAT to make the PCM see different amounts or types of air to get the PCM to change the fuel trims. The F/IC directly changes the fuel trims while lying to the PCM about what the MAP/CRKPS/CAMPS are reporting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidepipe87 Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 What kind of flares were you going to go with? I had the idea of sectioning two rear 97+ cherokee flares together to make some to match the 97+ front flares but that will probably be a ton of work and I don't know if there are any size/shape differences between the two. I do like the Napier v2 flares but I don't think they will fit my truck being that it is a LWB MJ. The gas door will be in the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 What kind of flares were you going to go with? I had the idea of sectioning two rear 97+ cherokee flares together to make some to match the 97+ front flares but that will probably be a ton of work and I don't know if there are any size/shape differences between the two. I do like the Napier v2 flares but I don't think they will fit my truck being that it is a LWB MJ. The gas door will be in the way. The stock flares, but I ruined a rear Comanche flare attempting to modify it. I do have a full set of fully painted cargo box flare mounts now. :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohic Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 ... I had the idea of sectioning two rear 97+ cherokee flares together... ... I ruined a rear Comanche flare attempting to modify it... Don't mean to crap up your thread, but I really like the look that this guy did in THIS THREAD: Sooner or later I'm going to swap the 97+ front clip on here but for now I just put the 97 front flairs on. Wanted to do something with the rear ones so they kind of matched the fronts. So I took a trip the the local JY and got a set of flairs for $10.00 and started sanding untill I got them to look like this Almost look like the fronts right? The plastic is very thick on the top section of these flairs. I achieved this look buy taking a red 3m abrasive disc on a 90 degree die grinder and took down the majority on the plastic with that. Then came back with a DA sander with 80g then 120g then primed tham and finish sanded them with 320 and painted them with plastic coat bumper paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 Yes, that is where I got the idea. I really messed up one of the flares with an angle grinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 Pioneer Head Unit - Does all the fancy stuff, but only puts out 17 watts RMS per speaker... ...So I have to wire in this 8 AWG wire for a four channel amplifier to push 45 watts RMS to speakers and a subwoofer. The stock clutch master cylinder mount is perfect for running wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01yellowxj Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 looking good can't wait to see it with the supercharger! Friend has a 4.0L TJ with a supercharger and wow. Makes me want to get a 4.0 and run it in my 66 AMC wagon (factory 232 straight 6) and bolt on a super charger. Too much wiring for me to figure out but it would keep the wagon a straight 6. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 I spent a month working on this one flare. The LJ was begging me to worked on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted April 20, 2014 Author Share Posted April 20, 2014 There is a NP242 and front drive shaft installed now. The Novak shifter bracket was the wrong part and I modify it to work. These sound suppression foam strips go inside the inner fender. The originals were made of porous foam and collapsed under their own weight. The new ones I made out of closed cell craft foam do not absorb water and have plastic support sandwiched in the layers. This cut down road noise dramatically. I was able to retain the stock fender support bracket to keep the rigidity of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillithium Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 When swapping in the facelift doors, you probably installed the newer type fuse panel too, didn't you? I'm trying to figure out the wiring loom right now, and a way to power it with the old style fusepanel. I'm even considering running a seperate fusepanel directly from the battery, just to power the windows and mirrors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 When swapping in the facelift doors, you probably installed the newer type fuse panel too, didn't you? I'm trying to figure out the wiring loom right now, and a way to power it with the old style fusepanel. I'm even considering running a seperate fusepanel directly from the battery, just to power the windows and mirrors. Yes, I did, but I did not have a power harness that supported all the power door functions. I ended up creating my own power harness and wired it off the existing power unused power lead coming out of the fuse box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillithium Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Thanks for replying. I'll have to make my own harness, too. I just haven't figured out how to power it all. Is it literally finding 12V points in the fusebox that light on with the ignition key? I have all the connectors from the donor, so connecting the wires between the two doors shouldn't be the hard part. It's the lack of experience that will bite me. They really weren't kidding when they said that mounting the door was the easy part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 Thanks for replying. I'll have to make my own harness, too. I just haven't figured out how to power it all. Is it literally finding 12V points in the fusebox that light on with the ignition key? I have all the connectors from the donor, so connecting the wires between the two doors shouldn't be the hard part. It's the lack of experience that will bite me. They really weren't kidding when they said that mounting the door was the easy part. If you will be using the original Comanche fuse panel I would recommend running a fused power lead directly from the battery or PDC under the hood with at least a 14 gauge wire. That way it will have its own dedicated power circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillithium Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Thanks for replying. I'll have to make my own harness, too. I just haven't figured out how to power it all. Is it literally finding 12V points in the fusebox that light on with the ignition key? I have all the connectors from the donor, so connecting the wires between the two doors shouldn't be the hard part. It's the lack of experience that will bite me. They really weren't kidding when they said that mounting the door was the easy part. If you will be using the original Comanche fuse panel I would recommend running a fused power lead directly from the battery or PDC under the hood with at least a 14 gauge wire. That way it will have its own dedicated power circuit. Wait, this confuses me a little. Isn't my fuse panel already connected to my battery in such a way? Do you not recommend plugging the window/mirror motors into that fuse panel? Or do you mean running an aftermarket secondary fuse panel solely for the doors? If i'm correct, I need a 12V source for the window motor, a 12V source for the heated mirror, a 12V source for the mirror motions and a continuous 12V for the door lock. Do you have any suggested reading material on this subject? The Haynes manual is great for reference, but I've never had to wire a car before. Just two strokes without a battery or fuse box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted May 4, 2014 Author Share Posted May 4, 2014 Thanks for replying. I'll have to make my own harness, too. I just haven't figured out how to power it all. Is it literally finding 12V points in the fusebox that light on with the ignition key? I have all the connectors from the donor, so connecting the wires between the two doors shouldn't be the hard part. It's the lack of experience that will bite me. They really weren't kidding when they said that mounting the door was the easy part. If you will be using the original Comanche fuse panel I would recommend running a fused power lead directly from the battery or PDC under the hood with at least a 14 gauge wire. That way it will have its own dedicated power circuit. Wait, this confuses me a little. Isn't my fuse panel already connected to my battery in such a way? Do you not recommend plugging the window/mirror motors into that fuse panel? Or do you mean running an aftermarket secondary fuse panel solely for the doors? If i'm correct, I need a 12V source for the window motor, a 12V source for the heated mirror, a 12V source for the mirror motions and a continuous 12V for the door lock. Do you have any suggested reading material on this subject? The Haynes manual is great for reference, but I've never had to wire a car before. Just two strokes without a battery or fuse box. Correct, they all technically have their own separate feeds and should at least have their own fuses. I followed the wiring pin outs and diagrams in the factory service manual for 1997-2001 Cherokee models. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted May 4, 2014 Author Share Posted May 4, 2014 I took a break from being sick to finish gluing, trimming, and stapling the trim to the rear backer board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87 COMANCHE PIONEER Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 I painted and installed the front bumper. Uh, that is about it! I added another 1.5 quarts of ATF+4 to the transmission since it took two trips up and down the street to get it fully circulated and drop the level down below the "OK" mark. [/quote What bumper is that? I know its jcr, but which one?] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 What bumper is that? I know its jcr, but which one? A discontinued bumper that I bought in 2011 and had sitting around for two years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Sarge Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Just Read entire Build, Awsome Work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted June 12, 2014 Author Share Posted June 12, 2014 Just Read entire Build, Awsome Work Thanks! :D I finally figured out my AEM F/IC issues thanks to Talyn/SilverXJ pointing out there was a hidden Fuel MAF map hidden on a button on the Fuel MAP map. Which had a horrible calibration from AEM's base calibration. I flashed the firmware back up to Z1.07, no hesitation on throttle tip in now, and I took it for a drive. Drove like the F/IC was not even there. :D Just for fun, the very first log. 70% was the maximum injector duty cycle seen at about 70% throttle. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1djI_9Z6ywxSVOKJKmrr1wqRxUaSXlpfFUqxEzNs5Has/edit?usp=sharing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted June 12, 2014 Author Share Posted June 12, 2014 Now I am cleaning a puddle of water out of the driver's floor. Not sure how long that has been lingering there or if it from was before or after I replaced the door seals. :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted June 17, 2014 Author Share Posted June 17, 2014 Reground all the rust spots, retreated, sprayed several coats of Rustoleum Semi-Gloss Black over top, and now about six coats of Duplicolor Professional Undercoating over top of that. I believe the reason that the rust came back with the puddle is that I did not top coat the previous rust treatment. The passenger side fared better overall. I also cut off three inches of that foam sponge and rubber batting at the bottom that was trapping water. Once water soaks into them the rubber layer prevents it from evaporating easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted June 19, 2014 Author Share Posted June 19, 2014 I just installed the driver seat of the Corbeau Baja XRS with the MJ bracket.(They only sell a full replacement bracket.) The bracket is one to two inches too tall. I am short and my head is nearly touching the ceiling with the head liner removed. The seat is only about 0.5" wider than the the stock bucket seats, but the position on the bracket prevents the B pillar trim from being installed. If the trim could be installed the top bolster of the seat back would be tight against the trim preventing the seat belt from getting through. So... The seats are comfortable it seems, but the bracket needs slightly reengineered to work properly. However, there is a review on Amazon that mentioned this so I was prepared for the height issue. http://www.amazon.com/Corbeau-D848F-Bracket-Pickup-Comamche/product-reviews/B000FQ0D7Y/ref=dpx_acr_txt?showViewpoints=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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