Dillithium

Fixed it! Turns out, it was a wiring issue which was somewhat my fault. The old starter had a post terminal and one spade connector. The new starter has 1 post terminal and 2 spade connectors, a small one and a large one. I wired the exciter wire to the same size (large) spade connector as the previous starter. Apparently this was just an auxiliary ground connection. I had to connect the exciter wire to the smaller spade connector. So I crimped on a new connector and she fired right up. I figured this out by connecting the exciter wire ( the small gauge wire leading to the starter) with a jumper to the + battery post. Nothing happened, so that meant the starter was dead or I wired it wrong. KISS right?

From the battery to the relay? I'll clean everything up and post back tomorrow. Thanks for thinking with me.

I think I'm going to try scrubbing/cleaning all connections and test the relay tomorrow. Visually everything looked good, but you never know right?

Hey all, It's been a while since I've posted anything here. Mostly because my Jeep has been (mostly) problem free for years now. Been daily driving it for a long time now, so haven't done much in the sense of upgrades. Anyway, that's not why I'm posting. For the past year or so, it's been cranking slowly. Slower and slower, until it stopped entirely last Saturday. It simply did not crank at all, it just clicked and nothing more. I knew that the starter was going out, (there was a hole in it, it was super cruddy and old) so I replaced it. However, that did not resolve my issue. I've been doing some research but I can't seem to nail down what may be causing this. When cranking, this happens: - Fuel pump comes on - Starter relay clicks ( verified by noise and touch) - Starter solenoid clicks, though not every single time I turn the key. - My dashboard clock turns off, but none of the lights dim when attempting to start. Not the interior lights, nor the headlights. My current suspects are the starter relay and the ignition switch. However, for everything else the ignition switch seems to be working just fine. The fuel pump comes on, I can operate all electronics in its secondary position and so on. So it doesn't seem likely that it's the ignition switch. It also seems like a PITA to replace, so I'm hoping it's something else. The starter relay seems to click, but I don't know if it's actually carrying current to the starter solenoid. Other things I've tested: - Battery has good voltage. Haven't load tested it, but I did try jumping it with another battery, made no difference. - Battery terminals aren't pristine, but they're not dirty either. I can't imagine them being solely responsible. There's a large red wire running to the starter and a smaller green wire. Could it be possible to hook up the green wire to a wrong terminal? My new starter came with 2 tab connectors, but they were different sizes so I don't think it's that. Any tips on what to test next for the obvious fault?

That enormous wheelbase and departure angle make me not want it. I hope they offer a single/super cab with a good size bed. If not, I'll be sorely disappointed.

Was watching an old episode of Today's Homeowners. Don't know if anyone else had spotted it yet. http://imgur.com/a/yCRq1 Appears right at 11:05 : https://www.todayshomeowner.com/video/backyard-enhancement-makeover-part-1/

I really, really love that front bumper man. it's so clean, but functional with a winch! How's it holding up? Any chance I could take a look at those DXF files as well?

Howdy, got a question for you. You have the newer style header panel, which usually requires you to swap fenders as well. But it looks like you still have the stock Comanche fenders on there. How does it line up? Was any trimming necessary? Do you think you could post a few close ups of the fitment? Much appreciated!

Oh excellent, I'll be looking out for updates on Betty. I'm still keeping an eye out for a 5.2 ZJ donor, hoping to do the same as you did.

I still love seeing this Comanche. Especially the tire/lift combination is just perfect. How's Betty doing?

Are you referring to the B pillar lights? The light fixtures are known for corroding and crumbling (old plastic). Euramtec sells a quality replacement, certain Porsche 911 interior lights will fit as well. As for me, I didn't have interior lighting for 14 months. That was, until I found out I had the dimmer switched turned off. You may want to check your dimmer switch as an easy fix.

Hey I'm sure the a wrangler pick up would be amazing off and on road. But at € 101.204,00 for a 3.6 four door JK, of which € 60.000,00 are taxes, I just have to pass :yes: A Renegade with the 1.4 starts at just € 22.000,00. I may as well buy an SRT viper for the Wrangler money, haha.

Rob

I really don't think you're in the minority. I'd say the majority of Jeep lovers want a full frame, solid axle pick up from Jeep. But underpowered small trucks? Relative to their weight, I'd say they're fine power wise. (Euro) Ford Ranger: 2.2 Duratorq or 3.2 Duratorq. 160 and 200 horses respectively. Can tow up to 7700 lbs. (Jap/euro) Toyota Hilux: 2.5 D or 3.0 D. 144 and 171 horses respectively. Can tow up to 6600 lbs. (Euro)Volkswagen Amarok: 2.0 D with 180 horses. Can tow up to 7000 lbs. The V6 diesel is up to 240 horses and over 400NM in torque. Does 0-62 in 7.4 seconds(!). Now these are all diesels, because diesels are regrettably all we get. But I don't see how they're underpowered :hmm: They're all around 3500-4500 lbs, depending on cab size and options. I'd say it's enough power, especially when you look at the torque figures and weight. Or are you referring to a 0-60 speed? I can understand how you want Jeep to retain their identity, but the reality is that Chrysler is fiat now. The wrangler may be the last hurrah for a lot of Jeep lovers, but that doesn't make it any less fiat. The WK2 is built all over the world and is still considered a Jeep. What is the difference with it being built in Italy? A lot of chrysler's stuff was produced in Mexico. Does that make it less Chrysler, or less American? The KL is being built in Ohio and that thing screams Fiat. Now don't get me wrong, I like that there are lovers and haters of the Renegade/KL. Who wants everyone to drive the same Jeep? But I just don't understand the reasons you are hating it. I personally couldn't care less if someone thought my Jeep was a Fiat. It's my Jeep, I drive it , I love it. What more do you need?

The strada is more of a ute than a pick up. But I didn't know about the fullback. I kinda like it, aside from hating Fiat. I also don't see the point in such a short bed. Besides, I'd still like a Jeep. Even if it is backed by Fiat.

Do you know what though? I would buy it too, but for different reasons. I want a pick up. I want something to haul $#!& in, be able to load a small dirtbike into and be able to go offroad. A pick up fits that role for me, but half tons are simply too big and heavy for most of Europe. Aside from most size issues with our smaller parking spots and roads that are too narrow; They're too damn heavy and they consume too much fuel. I want a pick up that's not too big, right around 3000-3500 lbs and hopefully does more than 30 MPG. We don't have that here. But we do have the Renegade and they're reasonably popular here. So by all means, give us a Renegade pick up. Make it the new Comanche. I don't see the point in a wrangler based pick up. It'll be too expensive, it'll have to compete with RAMs and F-150's and I doubt anyone other than a Jeep die hard would buy one. I think Jeep needs to figure that there's an hole in the market for a lightweight, capable and efficient truck. Because if it's light and fuel efficient, they can sell them in Europe with them being overtaxed (we generally tax based on vehicle weight and fuel consumption). I'd probably even see if I could trade my Comanche in for it. All of the newborn-flaws in the Renegade will have been figured out by then and we can expect a proven product. So please, don't make it wrangler based. There are enough half and three-quarter ton pick ups.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Jeep+Comanche+stock+wheels

Thank you! I was just wondering about this the other day. Now I know I need to grab the shifter gate.

I kinda like the Renegade pick up :dunno: I mean, obviously it's a concept and we'd have to see what the end result is. But despite it being rough around the edges, I like it. Hopefully we'll know after this year's Easter safari what to expect in 2018.

Well son of a b*@$£. I don't like that bleeding it with the pedal all the way down was actually the culprit. But I'm glad all it cost you was some brake fluid. I doubt I've bled as many MJ's as you have, but I tried very hard to engage the fifth line to bleed it. I could not get it, after a lot of attempts. I gave up and took it out, braking's better than ever and I don't even have the WJ booster/MC installed yet.

I was pretty stumped by that story too. I could see how the seals could become dislodged and then not allow the pressure to release, thus causing the pads to drag. But that's just my theory after that and your story. It happened a while ago. Personally, I would get rid of the valve in the rear of the truck. It makes bleeding so incredibly difficult. Though it shouldn't have any effect on the front brakes. How are the new lines you ran from the WJ MC to the distribution block? None are too severely bent are they?

So, this is a longshot, but I've had something similar happen to a friend of mine. Basically, he did everything what you did when installing a new master cylinder. He bench bled it and the bled all the lines in the vehicle. He first used the pump and hold method and used a little vacuum-pump afterwards. He could never get the brakes to work properly after installing the new master. I don't remember the exact symptoms, but there were pressure issues. What turned out to be the culprit was that he pushed the pedal all the way to the floor while doing the pump and hold method. Apparently, in new master cylinders, this can ruin internal seals. Thus causing pressure problems. I never quite believed the story, mostly because it was the guy who sold my buddy the MC who came up with it. But after replacing it with a new one and just using the vacuum-pump, the problem was cured. Other than that, you got enough fluid in the reservoir? Still got the stock prop valve? Perhaps cleaning the gunk out of the distribution block wouldn't be a bad idea.

I scored a 4.10 Chrysler 8.25 just a few weeks back, so this is helpful. Thanks guys. Post up some pictures of the process, i'd love to see it.

No, the hub bearing will not swap over. There is a difference in "height" with hub bearings throughout the years. Brakes I'm not sure about, they changed the caliper design at one point. You'd have to visually inspect it. Ball joints should be the same.

dittoX3I will get pictures when I go home this weekend! I extended the 3 studs coming off the wall and put a nut on it. So it's got the 3 studs holding it on each side, and it was a very tight fit. I bet it could hold a decent amount of weight before giving! I didn't even know there were studs back there. I'll look forward to your pictures!