Dillithium

Am I correct in the fact that i need to remove the throttle body to adjust the TPS on the 2.5 TBI? With those fuel lines there, and the coolant(?) line to the right of it, I have no room to backprobe the connectors, let alone a T-20 socket. Can I safely disconnect those fuel lines, or would I have gas spray everywhere? Is there a gasket from the TB to the Intake manifold?

Righto, I have a follow up question. I've followed the line as pictured below: As you can see, this small black line runs towards the coil pack and seems to be lodged between part of the motor mount bracket and the fenderwell. I'm 99% sure this is not the way it's supposed to go, but that little connector thing I'm pointing at has me on the fence After it passed through the motor mount bracket, it loops back towards the battery. Secondly, there's this thicker hose coming out of the firewall: This hose leads all the way to the vacuum canister in the front, but is just dangling there without any connection. It's coming from the firewall, I can't imagine it's a breather hose. Does anyone know what that is?

Nice to see another 86. Your grill is upside down, just so you know. What are your plans for it?

Supposedly after June of 86, yes, the firewall changed to accommodate the 4.0. I got lucky, mine is a september of 85.

How do the general springs ride? Also, what kind of rear swaybar set up are you using? It seems shorter than the WJ bar in Hornbrod's rear swaybar DIY. Could it be an XJ rear swaybar? Did you make your own framebrackets? I'm excited to see the newly built engine go in!

Damn it, I really liked this build. How bad is the damage? Anyway of filling the score with a small weld and smooth it out? You'd still need a block in the long run, but perhaps that could tide you over? Whatever you end up doing, Good luck man. I feel for you.

His post is almost 10 years old.

ohhh, that does make more sense! Jkasse, do you have a 4wd or 2wd Comanche? The 4wd model cable needs to be 96''.

Wanted adds go in the Wanted section, bottom of the forum. But what do you mean by transmission cable? The clutch line? If so, have a custom one made out of Stainless steel. The OEM clutch lines are no longer being made, I believe.

Good luck with the conversion! I hope your clutch master fixes your problems, usually the slave isn't far behind.

Oh cool, thanks!

Say Jeep Driver, what kind of piping did you use in the bottom picture leaving the throttle body? My hose from my airfilter box to the throttle body is torn, I'm looking for a fitting alternative.

You using the CAD dana 30? If so, you could upgrade to 97+ axle shafts for the larger U joints.

4.0 or 2.5? You could add an E-Fan to the radiatior with an in cab switch, or thermostat switch. How old is your coolant? How does your radiator look? Do you have your fan shroud?

My hard shifting turned out to be a bent/warped diaphragm, it only got worse and worse. I replaced my master and my slave(thankfully external) which did not help. Ended up replacing the entire clutch, my throwout bearing was pretty shot, too.

Is it hard to shift into 4hi or just 4lo? You have to be slowly rolling to get into 4lo.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/45621-hvac-selector-vacuum-leak/

Well, if you can't find the direct cuprit, let's try to look at it systematically. You want Spark. Spark would be given from the CPS, to the coil, rotor, leads, spark plugs and boom. You have spark. How are all of these parts looking? Corroded/shiny? New/old? Electricity can pass through corrosion, but it meets more resistance at first, possibly making it harder to start. Secondly, fuel. You say grounds are not an issue, how is the tail light ground looking? That ground is responsible for the fuel pump, could induce performance issues there. Could it be possible you have sediment in your gas tank, clogging the strainer/fuel filter during first start up during the day? That sediment collects at the bottom of the tank, effectively choking the strainer before fuel is slushed around while driving. Last, air. Not much to say about air, renix has a closed loop system when cold so the sensors are indeed not suspicious here. How fast does it crank during a cold start? Normal or slower? How long does it take you to crank for it to start during one of these episodes?

4x4 model cables are 70-some inches long, that's what my research got me. The cruise cable is a little over or under 6 feet. I got mine from my local crown dealer.

This thread has given me new hope to repair my vacuum leak, I'll be tackling this first thing tomorrow.

No promise on when, but I will be swapping in bucket seats for my bench eventually. I'll sell my benchseat, I'm not that far from you. I have no idea if I'll do it anytime soon, though. It will probably be a summertime job. I'll PM you when I've done it, to see if you still want it.

For potential buyers, notice the broken fuel gauge pegged beyond full. Fuel sending units are hard to find, and expensive to have refurbished.

Hey thanks blackbeast! The inspection really did help someone like me, with a lack of real world experience. I've come a long way since february, learned A LOT. A lot of it due to CC.

Check my build thread, I fixed my handbrake by making a new catch. Make sure your steel selection is nice and hard, then harden it again with a fast quench.

That's still a great looking front bumper, the rear too!