Dillithium

Hej på dig! Another Swede? :) My feelings exactly. I didn't like it at first but have come to love it! Too bad that the drivers seat is so worn... Yeah, and the bed light is actually working still - even though the bar is blocking most of the light. :) I discovered three different layers of paint on the bed that are not present on the front. I suspect that the bed was replaced, the whole car repainted and the graphics then added to make it look "whole". They are very probably after market decals as there were "Trim Line" markings among them which I believe is a 3M pinstriping brand. The car was imported in November 1987, according to the registration, most probably by the original dealer. According to the VIN it is a Metric Ton Laredo, as (I've come to understand) are most of the Swedish ones. The import taxes were so high in the 80's that the Laredo trim was the only one worth importing... Alas, not swedish. Just a victim employee at a swedish furniture store. Cool to hear it was actually imported by a Jeep dealer in 87, we didn't get them at all in the Netherlands so they're pretty rare. Do you see them often in Sweden?

There are a decent amount of xj's here, mostly facelift and obd1 versions. So there are some used parts. But junkyards charge a lot for american car parts. For example, a chrysler 8.25" runs around 400 euro, regardless of condition.

I figured I'd still have too much caster. New lca's just aren't an option right now, so I'll remove the shims and make due. Thanks for all your help.

I measured my lift using the DIY sticky, i have between 1.5 and 2 inches of lift currently. I also noticed my LCA's both have a 2mm thick shim on the chassis side, how much would it reduce caster if I removed those?

Fuel gauge past the F mark usually indicates an open circuit, check the wiring outside of the tank first.

Found another wrapper this morning, I'm going to stop parking nose inwards. Hope that helps.

:thumbsup: Just consider it preventative maintenance. Good to near you've been able to solve it.

I checked the results of the alignment i had done in march, my caster is 9•04' and 9•05'. According to stock specs, it should be 7•30' on both sides. Camber and toe are within spec. I'm going to measure the actual lift tomorrow when I have light, thanks for the help so far.

Hej! It looks like you have a factory bed light switch, with the actual bed light too! Very cool, especially for a comanche in Europe. They're super rare here, so we have to treat them especially well. I didn't like my red interior at first, but it sure does grow on you. I love it now and wouldn't trade it for a black interior. You also have some very unique graphics, I wonder of that was a dealer option. Did you import the comanche yourself? Do you know where it came from?

Herr TGJC, Ihre Comanche ist sehr schön. Es ist shade dass Stuttgart ganz weit weg ist! Gehe sie diesen sommer zu ein Jeep ereignis? Möglicherweiss gehe ich zu das ASP-Jeep weekend, in Möglingen. Hoffentlich ist mein deutsch begreiflich.

I would, but then I'd have to get rid of my roll bar, which I quite like. I just don't understand people's rationale for this, why do this?

Is this part of owning a pick up? I've never owned a pick up before, but I keep finding trash in my pick up bed. No matter where I park, at home, at work, while running errands. People keep dumping candy wrappers, empty gum packs and other crap in my bed. Is this just something I need to get used to? I just want to catch someone doing it so I can tell them off....

Hello all, I have a few questions for the more experienced MJ owners out there. I've been chasing deathwobble and vibrations for a while now, I've replaced all the u joints and motor/tranny mounts and this has almost completely solved it. I'm pretty sure the remainder will be the wheelbearings/balljoints. For this purpose, my front driveshaft has been in the back of my cab for a few months now. I'm going to take my comanche on longer drives starting august and will also be doing some trailrides. Naturally, I want to reinstall my front driveshaft but I feel like my front pinion is pointing down too much. At the same time, my axle is not centered in the wheel well. It's definitely farther towards the nose of the car than it should be. I snapped some pictures with my flashlight an hour ago, could you guys take a look? I feel like these pictures don't do it that much justice, perhaps because the wheels are parked against the curb. Now, this is the reason the axle is so far forward in my opinion. These control arms aren't stock, of course. These came with the car, from the PO. I'm pretty sure this car was lifted at least 4'' at some point, because these LCA's are longer than stock LCA's(I've measured and compared) But what about the chassis control arm brackets, are those stock? I'm not entirely sure what to do here, if I reattach my front driveshaft I'm pretty sure my angle will be wrong and my u-joint will be shot within the next 100 miles. The easiest solution would be to return to stock controls arms, but I really, really don't like the stockers. They're just flimsy. The jeep has a nice firm feeling right now and tracks well, I don't want to ruin that by putting on stock LCA's. The other option is WJ LCA's, but I just don't have the time to make them fit and they're not cheap around here. What I'm basically asking is; By how much is my front yoke off and can I still drive it like this with my front DS attached? Would I not cause an enormous amount of stress on the ujoints for my front driveshaft? Any insight is appreciated, thank you in advance.

I did it, it was totally worth it for me. The central locking is nice, but for me the biggest advantage were the bigger windows and mirrors.

Sweet LWB! Hope to see more soon.

70 liter at 1,65 euro per liter. So about 115 euro. I have a 20 gallon(80 liter ish) tank. I get 17mpg with mostly city driving, on 225/70/16 tires.

Did you reconnect all the ground cables properly to the engine/firewall?

It's cheaper than driving all the way to Yellowstone though. Because of it being a geyser, get it?

Hi, welcome. I looked at doing that when I swapped from idiot lights to a full cluster, because the old print was in a lot better shape than the new print. Is this what you're talking about? In between identical clusters I can't see it being a problem, I didn't end up doing it because the two clusters had different copper paths.

When I was a kid, I had a toy pick up truck with jaws up that would open its mouth and it would eat other hotwheels. That's what your Comanche reminds me off, very cool!

I've ridden xt500's, fun bikes. What is that loading ramp you're using?

This probably wouldn't work for an ax5-np207 combo, would it? I believe the np207 has a shorter linkage.

An image would help yes, but why not just grind a flat surface for the nuts to sit on? Or add a ring?

Do the ground refreshing. Post 1 in my Tips. Just did this while replacing my rotor, cap and leads. It helped significantly. I also did the contact points on my coil. I should've gone through your list ages ago, but there were so many mechanical issues to tackle first. It still has a low idle, but it doesn't waver nearly as much as it did.. Thanks Cruiser!

Could it be the CAT?