Dillithium

Allright, time for another little update. As a way of closing off this hectic year, I did some wiring to help during the darkest times of the year. I did the wiring loom upgrade for the headlights, as per Go-Jeep's instructions. I should've taken a before picture, but I did it a while ago and am only now updating this thread, so forgive me for that. I used a little thicker wire than Go-Jeep prescribed, and 80/100 watt OSRAM H4's. One 40 amp relay per light. I also finally wired my Gentex 177A and my Hella extra lights. Headlights turned off: headlights on: With Hella spotlights: These are not aimed properly yet, I aimed them rudimentarily to avoid blinding people, but you can see there's still quite a gap in lighting I need to resolve. This is my fault, not the Hella's. They're Jumbo 220's with 55 watt H3 bulbs, though I've wired it to take 100 watt bulbs easily if I ever wanted the upgrade. Gentex 177a Interior mirror [compass and temperature sensor] Now, you'll notice I don't have a picture with my high beams. They do work great, but I haven't had a need to use them, iif that makes sense. My normal beams are so bright, the picture doesn't really do it justice. I haven't had a need to turn them on yet. Thus, I forgot to take a picture of my high beams really. Now, what are my new year's resolutions for my Jeep? Lots of things, as I've accumulated enough things to last me for a while. - I have two door XJ folding bucket seats + a center console I need to install - I still have Euramtec B pillar lights I need to fit + footwell courtesy lights - I have a WJ Booster and MC upgrade waiting for me to do it - I have a JCR DIY bumper in the mail coming to me - I need upper balljoints, so I'm replacing all four of them - I am upgrading all of my control arms for WJ arms There's probably more, but this is off of the top of my head. So yes, a lot of stuff to do in the new year. Once all of that is taken care of, I will have to pick a new heading for it. Either paint, or maybe a 4.0. See you in the new year!

I have had the same tires for about 2000 miles, love them!

Was the throttlecable installed properly? Not too tight? 4500 is high, almost too high for a vacuum leak.

Agree on everything except the welding of the motor mount brackets.....no welding, those bolt to the framerails. 2.5 brackets look almost identical to 4.0 ones, but trust me they are different. You'll need the 4.0 brackets, and can reuse the 2.5 mounting hardware, but will have to align them with different holes in the rails. Huh, I didn't know that. Thanks for correcting me, that makes it even more attractive to do! :)

What kind of weight are we talking? Also, where will you mount the base of this rack? I'm sceptical of using the bed rails, Most tubesteps on rocksliders are 1/8 to 3/16th thick as far as wall goes, diameter is up to you.

I haven't done it either, though it is in my future(hah). The 86 doesn't readily accept a 4.0, since it wasn't in circulation for the MJ at that point in time. You'll need to modify the radiator support on the top for the new 4.0 radiator(much bigger), massage the firewall backwards to accommodate the head, find a transmission to bolt up to the 4.0(ax15/aw4) and weld new motor mounts in. Don't forget a new transmission crossmember, that may need to be drilled and tapped into the frame rails. Also, what is your axle and tire setup like? If you're still on factory tire size with the 4.10 gearing, the drive will be...exciting.

i did the same, new doors are also more quiet and may include a neat spot for tweeters.

Well, since you're asking for opinions, I'll chime in. Personally, I dislike it when a car or truck has multiple types of lighting up front and rear. If you want LED, go full LED. Indicators, headlights, lightbars, the works. Mixing Halogen and LED is weird, especially if they have different colortemperatures. Considering the age of our Jeeps, I would vote to stick with traditional lighting.

As did I, straight to battery terminal.

Did you use the putco harness? I made my own with 6mm wire, a little tougher. Sounds like the wiring was too thin to handle the current.

As far as I know, you will stay carburated. If you want EFI, be prepared to spend some cash and a lot of time on figuring out the wiring.

They got the 2.5 alternator with 200amps that's insane!!!! :dunno:

If you have a 2.5 it's the AC Delco 10si or 12si, depending on trim. These two also came in varying levels of amps, the highest being the 12si with 90 amps stock.

Our 86 2.5's don't have a ballast resistor.

Sir, your Comanche is awesome! I'm also looking forward to seeing the sliders. I'm going to build my own as well, but I haven't decided on size yet.

I'm not using those hoses i need to pick up some YJ hoses but thank you Ah okay, good to hear. Looking forward to seeing more!

Is the vacuum line attached to the booster? If there's a strong hiss and it drops to the floor, in my mind that sounds like a bad booster. Have you checked for fluid leaks?

All of that looks beautiful! I'd be hard pressed to focus on wheeling, haha. Judging by the line up, you'd need at least 35's to be able to do those trials huh?

Hate to be that guy, but you gotta tie away your brake calipers! If they're hanging on the hose, the strength of the hose will be compromised.

I removed my valve, too. Have been fine driving and braking ever since. It just means you need to be mindful of the middle pedal. I've been a little scared of doing the brakebooster upgrade since I removed the load valve; it already stops very well now. I feel that a bigger booster would make it lock up too easily(based on testimonials of people who've done it) I love your towhooks, they look much sturdier than mine.

Detonation maybe? That could mean your headgasket is blown.

That means you have a vacuum leak. The different vents are operated by vacuum from the engine. Check the vacuum canister to make sure it's not leaking(passenger side, inside the front bumper) and follow the lines going inside your firewall. Check for leaks and replace as necessary. Sometimes, the Y connector behind your heater control seperates so you may want to check that; although I've been unable to find that connector myself.

Certain Comanche specific items you'll want to work/be in one piece: Taillights(Expensive and rare!) Fuel sending unit(Make sure it reads) Cab corners(rust) and B pillar lights(also kinda rare, though aftermarket options are available) Rear window(No known official replacement) That's it really. The rest is the same as most jeeps, if I were you, I'd like at 89+ just so you get an AX15 transmission instead of the BA10. But perhaps this one is still working properly.

:thumbsup:I'm visiting the renault dealer tomorrow.

I may be in Indiana on vacation somewhere in that timeslot. I'll make sure to join you if I am; though it will be without my comanche