Dillithium

My bench seat is fine as far as the cover goes, there is definitely a wobble in the back but if I lean against it I have no complaints. I'm still going to swap it for bucket seats, because I miss having a center console.

To answer one of your questions, my bench seat does have a third lap orientated seatbelt in the middle. How rough is it, can an upholsterer not tackle it?

Thank you, Whitemanche. I placed the order over at Rockauto and hope to put it all in soon.

Hey guys, I'm about to place an order for some replacement parts,and I'm hoping that you could give me some confirmation on the partnumbers. I've read that Rockauto isn't always correct, so maybe some members with more experience can chime in. I have a 1986 2.5 TBI with an AX5. For the motor mounts, Anchor 2569 and 2571. These seem correct, how do people feel about Anchor? Transmission mount: Anchor 2570: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=315178&cc=1181382. I checked my current transmission mount, and I can see four studs on it, but on some websites I see a mount with only two studs listed for the AX5. Is four studs correct for an AX5? I would assume so, but I've never had to replace it before. Finally, I'm pretty sure I need a new fuel pump. I ran it near dry on accident and it's making a horrible, horrible noise. I'm going to see if maybe the filter is clogged, but if it's not I will need this pump. The pump I chose: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=976874&cc=1181382 with a new bosch trainer, too. Thanks for any comments.

Do you mean the trackbar bracket on the frame side? If so, I'm pretty sure they're bolted on from the factory. Maybe a Junkyard visit to score a new one? I know a lot of aftermarket companies make their own with their own adjustable track bars.

Carriers bearings, pinion bearings. Ring and pinion itself, a lot in a diff can make noise. I always like to start outside of the diff, because I hate replacing diff oil. - Check the yoke for up and down movement,(pinion bearing slack) - Jack up the rear, spin both rear wheels and listen for any noise. Try to locate the noise, is it the diff or wheel bearings? The following will cost 2 quarts of gear oil to refill it; You could visually inspect the ring gear and spider gears, Check for odd wear or chipped teeth. Take some pictures while in there, spin the axles and see what it's doing. Also check the old oil for metal slivers. This is the first step, if it all checks out then we'll have to try some other things. Good luck!

Kelley's work in progress makes an excellent set to upgrade all your main wiring. http://www.kelleyswip.com/price.html

I went for the Jeep Icon off of the 2000 and 2001 limited Cherokee's, I also considered the Timerlines for a while:

First off, thank you all for replying. I didn't think a gearing thread would get this much attention, since there's one every other day or so. I appreciate every reply. ^^^ This. The tires you want to run (225/70-16) are exactly the same size as 225/75-15. 3.55 gears were what the factory used with that tire size behind a 4.0L with automatic. You need more RPMs to be able to run a 2.5L at 70 MPH. According to my calculations (which are more accurate than most on-line speed-to-RPM calculators I've seen, with 225/70-16 tires you would get the following at 70 MPH: 3.55 ... 3040 RPM in 4th gear, 2280 RPM in 5th gear 3.73 ... 3203 RPM in 4th gear, 2402 RPM in 5th gear 4.10 ... 3521 RPM in 4th gear, 2640 RPM in 5th gear 4.56 ... 3916 RPM in 4th gear, 2937 RPM in 5th gear In reality, you're fine with the 4.56 gears you have. What too many people forget is that the basic design of the AMC engines (both the 4.0L and the 2.5L, since both are derived from the older 232 cubic inch I-6) dates to long before overdrive transmissions were commonly used. In the 1960s and early 70s, AMC cars came from the factory geared to run approximately 24 MPH per 1000 RPM. That worked out to 2500 RPM at 60 MPH, and 3000 RPM at 72 MPH. And that wasn't "burning the engine up." My brother had a 1970 Gremlin with a 3-speed manual tranny and the 232 c.i.d. engine that went over 300,000 miles. And he used it to win a couple of state autocross championships as well as being a daily driver. So the 4.56 gearing puts you right where you should be for the 2.5L. You could also get by with 4.10s, but I think you would be horribly unhappy with any less gear than 4.10s. I read this right before leaving work, and decided to just go for it after work. I've been chasing a death wobble as well as a leaking exhaust, so I've been a little timid to really get up to 80 Mph but I decided that I needed to try this out. I took my Comanche out on the highway and just kinda went balls to the wall with it. My rev counter isn't calibrated yet, but I went past my comfort zone and I discoverd a power band of sorts. Where third/fourth was lackluster before, if I revved it enough I could definitely feel it pull. Even going from 65 to 75 it would pull, instead of crawling up to speed. I have just been looking at all of this wrong, because I keep thinking my 2.5 is a shorter 4.0...expecting it to have the same characteristics and power band. Thank you for the offer! I would take you up on it if there weren't an Ocean between us. I live in the Netherlands. Also, it's a Dana 35 in the back(which is why I wanted to swap to a chryco 8.25) You can think that but, as most of us have commented, you would be wrong. You can't regain what you never had, and the 2.5L Jeep 4-banger is simply never going to push you back in your seat like a 5-liter Mustang. You can get a little bit of acceleration feel in first and second gear, beyond that acceleration is "gradual," at best. That's just the nature of the beast. The only way to get more feel of acceleration is with MORE gear or smaller tires. You certainly won't get it by changing from 4.56 gears to 3.55s. Exactly, i am wrong. it's not a 4.0. Though I must say, now that I've tried revving it higher it does give me a nice push back, even in fourth. I was wondering if someone was going to catch that, I'll refrain from using ''Car''. To summarise, I've taken it out on the highway, revved it higher than I was doing before, and found satisfying results. My deathwobble/exhaust is still keeping me from really trying to gun it, but I've decided(all thanks to all of you) to keep my 4.56. I still need to return to the open diff style, and both yokes are worn. But this should save me greenbacks. Thank you all.

Sound pressure reducing can be done in a few ways, but I can't imagine a spray on system will work very well. Most of the time you need ''thickness'' for the best effect. Have you considered something like Dynamat?

I haven't quite figured out what i want to do engine wise. Swapping in a 4.0 might be in the future, provided I can find a donor car for the right money. It's just so hard to find an AX15/4.0 combo where I live. I may just keep the 2.5, too. it's a good engine, no issues and starts every time. *knock on wood. I'm going to see what I can get. I'll talk to my local Jeep shop monday, they have a 2001 XJ up for parts. If that has 3.55 and the price is right, I may just go for that. Then I can start worrying about the front axle. Thanks for replying so far, it's definitely a luxury to have a forum full of experienced Comanche owners.

The nice thing about picking 3.54/55 is, I can just go out and find a 8.25 Chryco and put that in. No need for finding a full diff, it's stronger and I can mount disc brakes in the future. I already have the correct backing plates. I just don't understand why Chrysler would put 4.10 in from the start. If only I could drive a jeep with 3.55 and feel the difference, to just be sure of what I'm about to do.

Hello All, A little info up front, I have a 2.5 TBI, AX5 Transmission, Command Trac 207 transfercase LWB Comanche. Since I'm an idiot, I just assumed my diffs were both factory spec still. I ignored the sand I found in the weirdest places, the offroad tires, all of it. I assumed both diffs were 4.10/11 as they should be from the factory. Well, I found out they're not. Someone actually spent some money on my Comanche and had both axles regeared to 4.56. Not only that, I have some sort of weird Locker/LSD diff in there. It's not a Detroit locker, it's not an Eaton. I can't find a brand stamped on it anywhere. It's just a weird contraption. I can only assume some people would be happy with this discovery, means that I can fit bigger tires. In fact, some quick googling turned up that to make the most of 4.56 I need 33 or 35'' tires. I'm not happy with it at all. I never wanted 33's, let alone 35's. This car is meant to be 80-90% highway useage for me. This is why I'm writing this, I'm looking for some advice. I already scored Jeep Icon rims off of a 2000 limited, I've already selected new tires I want. I was going to get 225/70/R16 (about 28.5'' tires). Obviously my current gearing is wrong for that tire size, it explains why my gears are so damn short. It's been driving like an old diesel. The revs on the highway have also been pretty crazy. Not only that, the ''lockers'' are also failing. They're just kaput, so not only do I need regearing, I need entire new diffs. Problem number one, what gearing do I go to now? Do I want to go back to stock 4.10? Running the numbers through Grimmjeep's calculator, with my current tire size all in fifth gear: (235/75/15) and 4.56 I get 3157 RPM at 70 Mph. (235/75/15) and 4.10 I get 2838 RPM at 70 Mph. (235/75/15) and 3.55 I get 2457 RPM at 70 Mph. With my newly desired tires: (225/70/16) and 4.56 I get 3210 RPM at 70 Mph (225/70/16) and 4.10 I get 2886 RPM at 70 Mph (225/70/16) and 3.55 I get 2499 RPM at 70 Mph I would think that 2499 is the sweet spot, 3.55 is also a common gearing. But what does that do for my driving experience? I have a heavy foot, I know the 2.5 isn't much but I like to feel of a little pushback into my sweet when I accelerate. Obviously with 4.56 that's not present right now. How do I regain that? The fact that it came with 4.10 from the factory has to have a reason, but I just don't know what would be best for me. I welcome any insight.

You've got some work ahead of you, but it's always good to see another Comanche being saved. Keep us posted. :wrench:

If you will be using the original Comanche fuse panel I would recommend running a fused power lead directly from the battery or PDC under the hood with at least a 14 gauge wire. That way it will have its own dedicated power circuit. Wait, this confuses me a little. Isn't my fuse panel already connected to my battery in such a way? Do you not recommend plugging the window/mirror motors into that fuse panel? Or do you mean running an aftermarket secondary fuse panel solely for the doors? If i'm correct, I need a 12V source for the window motor, a 12V source for the heated mirror, a 12V source for the mirror motions and a continuous 12V for the door lock. Do you have any suggested reading material on this subject? The Haynes manual is great for reference, but I've never had to wire a car before. Just two strokes without a battery or fuse box.

Thanks for replying. I'll have to make my own harness, too. I just haven't figured out how to power it all. Is it literally finding 12V points in the fusebox that light on with the ignition key? I have all the connectors from the donor, so connecting the wires between the two doors shouldn't be the hard part. It's the lack of experience that will bite me. They really weren't kidding when they said that mounting the door was the easy part.

When swapping in the facelift doors, you probably installed the newer type fuse panel too, didn't you? I'm trying to figure out the wiring loom right now, and a way to power it with the old style fusepanel. I'm even considering running a seperate fusepanel directly from the battery, just to power the windows and mirrors.

The gear ratio is also on your ring wheel, it's stamped in as a division like 44/11(ring wheel divided by pinionwheel). The downside is that you now have to open your diff to check the gearing ratio. I'm not sure where to find another tag, maybe a JY?

I just did this 5 minutes ago, the speedo cable retainer on my 86 is held on by a metal clip, Push it in to release it.

I currently have a benchseat, I want to use the brackets off of the benchseat, to mount to the XJ buckets, to make them work in my Comanche. They're pretty dirty, I need to get them recovered, but 2 door XJ's are so rare here it's hard to pass on them.

Excellent, I'll have to go look at them tomorrow. Thanks Stroker.

Exactly, I want to swap the brackets over. That's not the issue. But I've read that there are two kinds of sliders for Cherokee seats, rocker sliders and straight ones. The rocker sliders sit up higher a few inches, I'm 80% sure these are straight sliders but I'm just looking for some confirmation.

Yeah, sorry, I should've mentioned. These are seats from a two door cherokee that I'm looking to buy. To me the rails look straight, but I just don't know for sure.

Could someone who has done the seat swap please tell me if these are the dreaded rocker sliders or the straight sliders? I've been staring at the diagram for a while now, but just can't be sure because I don't have another reference pic of what either is supposed to look like. I'm 6'5'', so if I buy the wrong ones I will hit the roof. Thanks in advance.

Then I'm stumped. How clean is your reservoir? No sediment that could be clogging your MC lines?