Dillithium

How old was the fluid that came out?

Hello all, Does anyone have a diagram or picture specific to the Comanche seat belt locking mechanism? I've learned through searching that it works on vehicle inertia, but I haven't been able to get it to work yet. I'm assuming I'll have to tear into my B-pillar if I want to service them, i just hope I won't have to remove the bench to do it. I'm hoping the picture/diagram will help me recondition it if possible. Thanks!

I have the same problem, it's pretty loud after a long drive. Except mine is a 2.5 from 86. I hope you don't mind if I tag along in your topic, I've searched but found nothing conclusive. Also, I like your avatar picture.

If you're comfortable with tin snips they're quite easy to make yourself. You just have to drill the holes for the wheelbearing hub and cut a circle.

Hate to say it, but you're driving in America. It's just the way it is there. As a non-native, I've been to a total of four states, and I've been in so many near-accidents I just kinda gave up on American drivers. I've seen people do their make up while driving in a school zone, I've been cut off dangerously close so many times I've stopped being surprised, I've been the victim of truck drivers and their ''merging'' without looking, I've had people tell me that stop signs are optional when I pulled out of a Lowe's and almost got hit by them... I've just had so many issues with driving in the US, I have lost faith. Let's face it, your driving test is a joke. It relies on parental supervision, and in most cases they just pass on their bad driving habits. My brother in law was told to drive down the street to a Steak-and-Shake, they went through the drive through and then they drove back. He got his license for just doing that. Don't even get me started on the condition of some of the cars currently on the road in Indiana(brake lights people!) I don't think it's related to your car, I think it's related to 'Murica :dunno: Don't get me wrong, I love going to America. I just have to drive differently when I'm there.

I love your comanche and what you've done with it so far. Can't wait to see more.

I'd be happy to make a DIY guide for the WJ conversion, but I don't know how many people would benefit from it since I'll be putting it in an 86. I have yet to do the conversion, but as soon as I pass state inspection it's number one on my list. I already have it laying around to do it, I got it from a 2000 WJ with the 4.7.

Man, I so want these. But the shipping to Europe would cost more than the items themself. *edit, you don't ship outside of the us/canada so they're not for me anyway.

I gotta ask, as someone who needs to bleed their brakes and is a little intimidated because of the fifth brake line. How did you end up get it bled 100%?

http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm That tells you how to make a wiringloom for your headlights from scratch, it doesn't tell you the factory colors but at least it'll give you an idea of what your current loom is made of.

Thanks for the help.

Okay, so my assumption that there's more than one way to fit the steering shaft to the steering box is incorrect? That's good, thank you for your help. I shouldn't be able to mess up reinstalling it.

Hey all, I just removed my steering box because it was leaking at the input shaft, I ordered a rebuild kit from Autozone and want to rebuild it this weekend. Before I did this, my steering wheel was offset to the right when going straight by about 30 degrees. I noticed that the attachement for the steering shaft is splined, meaning that if I do it right I can correct the offset in my steering wheel when putting it back by making sure the steering wheel is straight when putting it all back together. I don't know if this is actually a good idea, because I've been told that an offset steering wheel is usually fixed by a proper aligment. I just don't know if it needs an alignment, it didn't wander at all to the left or right while cruising on the highway... Should I leave the offset there, and hope an aligment can fix it? I just don't know if a p/o put the steeringbox back in wrong, thus causing the offset. Would fixing it with the input shaft mean my offset could return during an alignment? Secondly, about POR 15. I want to coat my floor in it, I haven't looked at rust yet (i know, a sin) but I figured I might as well coat it in por 15 when I get the chance. How much of the stuff would I need? is it just one coat on bare metal? I've heard it can smell after it heats up, is this true? Thanks for any help.

Welcome to Comancheclub, I'm a pretty new member myself. I was in your shoes a few weeks ago, so I hope I can give you some tips. First off, get familiar with the jeep dynasty. A comanche is very similar to a cherokee, everything from the cabin to the front of the vehicle is interchangeable with comanche's. Some parts will need a little fabrication, most will fit. What kind of comanche are you looking at? Year, engine, wheelbase, manual or auto? This will determine what to look for. What are you going to be doing with the car? Wheeling or a daily driver? An experienced member will check the floors before anything, the carpet sucks up moisture and corrodes the floor pretty badly. If it's a manual, you will need to check the under dash fuse box. It's located near the clutch pedal, impossible to miss. If the clutch master cylinder leaks or has leaked, chances are that fuse box will be melted and/or ruined. Bodywise it's pretty cookie cutter, if it has a towbar make sure the back of the frame isn't bent. Check for rust on the frame, and the back of the wheelwells. Enginewise it comes down to preference, I have the 2.5 TBI and it's great. Does 80 Mph very well. The 4.0 straight six is famous for being impossible to break, can't go wrong there. The 2.8 V6 is known for being underpowered and plagued with issues, it's just not reliable. If you have a choice, avoid that engine. You could always swap in a different engine, provided it was built in the second half of '87 and farther. Before that you'll run into issues with the firewall. If you let us us know what you're looking at and what you want to do with it we can be more precise on what to look for. As far as the rest goes, it's the same as any Nissan. Make sure it runs well, brakes well, etc.

I got my reverse lights to work without putting in a fuse, just a lot of contact cleaner and two new bulbs. I cleaned off the ground behind my taillight, but I'm going to scrape the paint away with a wire brush and apply some white grease to help it connect. I'll let you know if and how I fixed my gas gauge, I haven't read the ohm output yet but I know that unplugging the connecter didn't cause it to jump to full or empty. I'm crossing my fingers for the underdash ground or the taillight ground.

I have this week off, so I've started to tear into it. I'm doing my own little inspection to see what's wrong with it mechanically so I won't face any surprises during the national inspection. I started with the right front wheel, took the brakes off and the wheelbearing and cleaned it all up, lubed it and put it back together. Torqued it to spec and buttoned it up. Nothing wrong there, wheelbearing is old but still alive. So far, so good. Then I started the left front, but after spending four hours on the first wheel and knuckle, I started to lose daylight. To my shock I saw that the tierod on the left side was missing a cotter pin, and that the brakepad was put back so poorly it's basically ruined. The ear/tab of the inner pad caught the caliper arm and bent the pad, making the liner come loose at the same time. Previous owners can be scary.... I have to tear into it farther tomorrow. Tomorrow I'm starting a little earlier and will shoot for doing all three wheels AND fixing the gas gauge. I hope it's a bad ground, I really do. On a good note, my reverse lights work! I used contact cleaner on every related connection I could find and beefed up the ground. I'm stoked that's working. Tomorrow I'll promise to include pictures, my Phone was left inside with due to the excitement of the first day.

Usually when an engine only starts warm, I'd suspect compression. You could try putting a bit of transmission oil in every sparkplug hole right before you start it cold, if it starts right away then your piston rings are worn.

No start can be a lot of things, have you ever done a compression test? Vacuum check? If spark and gas comes in freely and correctly (correct fuel pressure and proper spark plug gapping) then I'd check air. So compression, intake gasket, air hoses, air filter. All that good stuff.

I have the same problem with my reverse lights and the fuel gauge, I haven't started with the fuel gauge yet but I'm pretty sure I can tackle that. With the reverse lights I've already replaced both lights, cleaned contact points and still nada. So I wanted to try the transfuse, but I don't have one? This is my fuse panel under my dash: I still have to test the switch on the transmission itself, but if that doesn't work I'm not sure where to go next. Tomorrow I'm improving the instrument panel ground, too. Just have to go buy an assortment of wire and attachements.

Well, I figured it out. 1986 Comanche was spot on. It's just too big. Right now there's a NAPA 1040 GOLD(I should've looked at it before I asked, I'm sorry) on there, which after some googling I found out is M18 x 1.50 thread. No way this stupid Mopar filter wil fit. I'll have to go back and get a different one. Thank you for all your replies!.

Thanks! I'll go look for that tag first thing. I'll post back to let you know what it turned out to be.

Where does the cad get its lubrication from? Do I need to fill it up with fluid at all and if so, where and which type?

Pardon my inexperience, but the size of an oil filter can vary between makes(while being applicable to the same engine)? It looks like it could fit, it's just bigger. I won't find out until I change my oil next week, but I figured I could ask some more experienced members.

Hey Guys, I bought a mopar oil filter from the dealership for my '86 2.5 TBI Comanche, but after comparing it with the current one on there, I'm not sure it's the right one. The partnumber on the box is: 05012968AA. It's 0.5 inches wider and longer than the current NAPA filter, does that matter? I hope someone can confirm it's the correct one, I'd hate to apply oil to it and then be unable to return it if it doesn't fit.

Thanks Impulserocket! I hope that I can tackle that tomorrow morning, you make it sound very doable.