Dillithium

Looking good man, couldn't find another Rock Crusher after all?

Yes, 2 u joints. But in your driveshaft, not front axle. You have a front axle without axle shafts, so no u joints to worry about. How are your motor and tranny mounts?

Glad you were able to agree on a price :yes:

You need to do some googling about transfercase input spline counts. If you have a 93 AX 15, it will be 23 spline. Your current transfercase in your 87 could be a 21 spline, meaning it would not work (You can swap output shafts on transmissions, but I wouldn't). About the donor transfercase, rebuilding a 231 is not hard if you have the tools and room to do so. There are plenty of written and video tutorials.

That is why flash was in quotes. No disrespect meant, just trying to explain it. :cheers:

The large plate is towards the rear . Just curious as to what you mean by "flash" . I'm glad to see that everyone is happy with them as of yet . Flash is what is commonly known as a byproduct of casting plastic or metal products. You'll see lines or excess material on an item due to a poor or worn out mold. Flash is not the correct term in this case, I assume he meant the markings left by the printer.

That is odd for sure! I know! I read that through my googling, but I always thought they were talking about face lift XJ's! I actually saw Elvis the other day, muttered something about hoarding Comanches. Should I give him your number?

Don't junk it! This truck is up there with Ryan's and Earl's for me( and I'm sure for most of us on here ). I know how frustrating old trucks can be, but think of it as your family. You finally got it back, don't let it go now. Let us know how it goes, I hope the second engine works out better for you.

So, since I bought my Comanche I've been without interior lighting. Initially it had to do with the corroded stock lights, but after refurbishing those they somehow stayed on continuously. I could not get them to go off with closing the doors. I remember reading somewhere in Ryan's buildthread that he needed longer door jamb actuators, I tried messing with them. Cleaned them, tried sticking magnets on top of the pushrods to get them to be pushed in farther. But alas, no bueno. So I pulled the fuse, and blamed the old failing lights. Up until two weeks ago, I dealt with not having interior lighting. On a whim however, i decided to install the Euramtec lights. I had hoped that would fix my issue. While the Euramtecs were considerably brighter, they still stayed on continuously. I concluded that I'd have to redo the wiring because it was grounding somewhere. Meaning I would have to pull the interior and worse. As most of you probably know, modern cars have interior light dimmers. As do our Jeeps. However, something I was not aware of, was that some cars also have an option to turn your interior lighting on continuously. I knew this was a feature on my parents car (2012 build year) and my girlfriend's car (2007 build year). Not once, did I consider the fact that an 80s car would have the same option. You can probably guess where this is going now. Last night, I finally connected the dots and figured out that my interior light dimmer (als known as the headlight switch) was turned all the way to the left. When you turn it all the way to the left, there is a final ''click'' in it. I twisted it slightly to the right, put the fuse back in and eureka. I now have interior lighting that works with closing and opening the doors. This took me 13 months to figure out. So yeah, even a 1980s car can have luxurious features like that. :cheers:

I received them as well, they look great. It won't be a while until I install them, but I'm sure they'll be excellent.

I have a 97 and up windshield installed with the rubber gasket.

That's some clever stuff! How's the light output now?

When I swapped my doors I used a hammer and a drift punch, no heat. But my jeep came from California, so you may need heat as Hornbrod suggested.

Who knows, though. It may have been a one time thing. Good luck!

Also, I'd recommend running some hard line with an inline filter to oil your tools.

Friend, I understand the social stigma's there are nowadays about approaching other people's kids but I think you can put a stop to this. If they're 10-12, they should be able to hold a conversation and listen to reason. Currently they may not see your truck as something of value, kindly remind them that you love your truck. You don't want to see it damaged, but you also don't want to see them get hurt. Are they arrogant little bastards? Then try their parents, it is NOT acceptable to treat someone's truck as a jungle gym. Are the parents similar little bastards? Then yeah, try parking it elsewhere. Or wax the roof of your cab extra good.

PM sent!

I completely agree about the football canister. It's an eyesore, but right now I have other chores I want to do first, like cleaning up the wiring near my battery. The 944 canister looks to be a good replacement , though!

It CAN be easy as pie, if you have the right tools. I bought the OTC balljoint press for this. It made my life so much easier. Once I got to the balljoints, I spent maybe 20 minutes per side pressing the old ones out and new ones in.

Buenos dias amigos, cómo estás? Today we will demonstrate how to move your vacuum canister from behind your front bumper, to somewhere else. You may duplicate the location I used, it matters not. I suffer from the common problem that my vents only blow on defrost. Any Comanche lover worth his salt will immediately rush to inform you that you have a vacuum leak. This is not a lie. It is the reason I decided to move my vacuum canister closer to my firewall. I wanted to eliminate the possibility that I had a perished line causing the leak. The vacuum canister for jeeps has a couple of functions depending on your trim level. It stores vacuum for certain essential vehicle operations when vacuum is needed. Think of cruise control, moving your blower vents and other key engine functions. This is a diagram of where the vacuum canister is located and the two most important lines going to it. The vacuum check valve line and your blower vent line. Let's begin! First, identify your passenger side front bumper: Crawl underneath to find these two (if memory serves 13mm) bolts. The pictures are upside down, but so will you be while doing this so I did not rotate them. You will find your vacuum canister in this location. ( I got excited and removed it before taking a picture, apologies) Note the front towhook is on the left. We are looking at the farthest corner of the front bumper on the passenger's side. Fight this waterskirt, push it back until it gives you your prize (vacuum canister) This is the location I selected for placing it. To the left of the engine, behind the battery. Trim and connect these two lines to your vacuum canister. The thin one comes from the firewall, and is your blower vent vacuum line. Inspect your lines for cracks and leaks. The thick one comes from your intake manifold, and is routed along the firewall. Now securely fasten the canister and you're done! Questions? Post them below! For me it did not fix my blower vent issue, it still only blows on defrost. However, while moving the canister I discovered that my check valve line was not even connected to this canister. Connecting that line resulted in a much more stable idle for me, so I gained something anyway.

Top bolt is an 8mm head that fits into my front diff, the bottom one threads into my driveshaft from my transfercase yoke. The bottom bolt is too big, isn't it?

I just installed WJ lower control arms, am going to do the uppers soon. The lowers have fixed my front pinion angle, meaning I can now reinstall my front driveshaft. However, after removing and reinstalling the front drive shaft at least 5 or so times, I'm really fed up with the transfercase portion of this install. There HAS to be a trick to make this easier, I cannot get a ratchet, a ratcheting wrench or anything usefull in there to make those four bolts easier. All I can do is about 1/4 turn at a time, for four bolts that are all about 4'' long. Is there a tool for this I don't know of? Or a special kind of set up? I've considered dropping the Tcase for it, I kid you not...

You are tenacious! You just keep pumping out more updates. You're making the rest of us look bad, haha. The wheels look smart, as does the new front clip.

This is pretty awesome! I put in my 86 (notorious year for not having complete information) and it even confirmed that I have a part time tcase with a five speed. That is something no other vin decoder has ever done for me. Thank you for this! I bookmarked it.

Gotcha, thank you! I mostly want the front clip for a stock location for fog lights, I don't mind the renix face. If I have to swap the fenders, that's a little too involved for me at this point.