Dillithium

I'm waiting on some LWB sliders, but they look beefy! Can't wait to see the tubesteps and your bumper design.

I've always liked the Hilux, had a lot of good experiences with one. But I don't know if the American Tacoma is remotely similar. They look good, though. I don't know if I really believe in the crawl mode...

Did you check the starter?

I have the same problem! It always reads 80/full when cold, it takes about 20 minutes of driving for it to read 45-50 on idle, and 60-65 cruising. I'll be looking out for one, thanks Hornbrod!

Thanks for the information guys, I've decided to put it off thanks to what you said. I love the way it looks, but I want to be able to ram people that annoy me in traffic without damaging it. No, I'm kidding of course. I want to drive over them This frees up some funds to do other fun stuff.

I've been reading mixed reports. Some say they survived a full collision with a truck, others like you find they dent too easily. I think it's the best looking winch bumper for the XJ/MJ platform. I hate bumpers that stick out far beyond the nose of the vehicle, so this fits the bill perfectly. It is very spendy, though.

Any updates for this? I'd love to hear your thoughts about the ARB winchbumper. I'm considering pulling the trigger on one, but I'm afraid it'll block my headlights.

I'm very curious, how did you attach the backerboard to the cab? I want something similar, only to hold tools I carry with me regularly. Axe/prybar etc. I hate that they're on the floor.

I came across this video on Youtube: If you're a gearhead, you'll love seeing this. I know I did. Too bad it doesn't fit under our Comanches...

If the gas gauge reads empty all the time, your connection for the sending wire is grounded somewhere. All it took for me was to re-attach the wire to the sending unit inside of the tank, it had broken off and was stuck to the body of the sending unit. Nobody makes a replacement sending unit for the renix era Comanche's, they can be rebuilt but that comes with a cost.

I got a question. I have a WJ booster + MC lying around, been meaning to upgrade for a year now but haven't gotten round to it. Are the lines from the MC to the distribution block bubble flares or double flares? If the current line nuts are too far gone, what size do I need to buy to replace them?

They do sell them separately. I would not have posted if they did not. I purchased a pair from Teraflex when I swapped my disk brakes from a c-clip D35 to a D44. About $65/ea with the preload spacers IIRC. That is some excellent information, sir :cheers: For people who want to keep their Non C clip D35/D44 and want discs, that is pretty cheap! It's hard to believe the whole kit is 600 some dollars, when those are the parts that matter most.

I'm not sure they sell the backing plates seperately, but these are the spacers: https://teraflex.com/shop_items/528ffa7fead962f416e73011 Also relevant: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Disc_brakes/

This isn't entirely correct. Non c clip dana 35's are not plug and play with ZJ discs. Most mjs have the non c clip dana 35.

Beautiful!! What kind of bedliner did you go with?

How many GB's of music did you put on there? Some radio's take a long time to load all the music or can't proces more than 4GB or so, it depends on the make and model. Are they simple MP3's?

Identify your rear axle first, then we can talk about discs. Use this handy chart: http://b.cdnbrm.com/images/prm/homepage/TouchClarity/images/articles/infographic/differential-identification-chart.jpg It will be either a DANA 35 or DANA 44, AMC 20 was only in 86 I believe. Secondly, drums vs discs is a tiresome debate but it will not yield you much more braking power. One of the best upgrades is a brake booster from a WJ or 96 XJ. Google is your friend in this case. But before you do that, how are your pads/discs on the front? All lines are bled correctly with recent brake fluid?

I fixed almost all of my play in my steering wheel, after replacing all of my control arms.

Normally you'd use the three holes on the passengers' side and one on the driver's side for the front skid plate. But you probably know that. Would it help? Hard to say, it might prevent warping of the frame if you ever had to get towed/pulled at an angle. Can't say anything useful about the swaybars, but I do wonder if you're not reaching the 'roof' of usefulness when you go above 28mm thickness. Our jeeps aren't that heavy. Will you use stock swaybar links?

If it's still sticking out, cut a slot into it wide enough to fit a slotted screwdriver. Then try an impact screwdriver or a screwdriver with a hex bolster on it for more torque.,

http://southbend.craigslist.org/cto/4971395506.html Has what appears to be an original rollbar. Edit, the seller has two adds. Second one has more details. http://southbend.craigslist.org/cto/4970871796.html

A clogged CCV or not, Jeepdriver's suggestion is a lot simpler than tearing into a vacuum harness or removing a valve cover. If there's little to no air being pushed out at idle, look further.

Also known as blow-by.

This is what I pulled off the web, but my crown manual shows the same diagram. Another image: http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/39375960+w660+h440+q80+re0+cr1+ar0/1202-4wd-03%2b1999-jeep-grand-cherokee-wj-rough-country-suspension%2bcontrol-arm Seems to me that the round bushing should be on the frame side. If the arms were reversed, you'd have less ground clearance. Though at the same time, you'd have an easier time clearing the shock mount. Edit, see post number four: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/wj-control-arms-xj-direction-130408/

Just for reference, I have installed WJ lowers and I'm currently working on installing WJ uppers. I had to trim the shock mount because the WJ uppers are slightly shorter. This means that the shock mount was pushing on the WJ lowers at full droop. I will take a picture of how much I removed once I get my axle side bolts in ( It's been a pain so far). I have a 225/75/16 tire with 1 3/4'' of lift. WIth 245 or 255's your axle would be up higher, so with a bigger tire there is less to worry about.