Pete M Posted January 7, 2011 Author Posted January 7, 2011 The factory setup is prone to failure and intermittent problems that deny you of 4wd at the worst possible moment. It was a mistake that Jeep eventually deleted in favor of a one-piece axleshaft. The CAD is simply a 2-piece axleshaft that has a collar that connects/disconnects the axle shaft. Bypassing it as shown makes it just like any Jeep made after the early/mid 90s. :thumbsup: The t-case will still control 2wd/4wd.
sinkrun Posted January 7, 2011 Posted January 7, 2011 I had one fail in a very BAD snow storm took me 2 hours to make a 1/2 hour trip without 4wheel drive.
Bounty Hunter Posted May 1, 2011 Posted May 1, 2011 Easier fix. Remove the disconnect, slide the collar to 'locked', reinstall the disconnect upside down. The fork will now hold the collar in the 4wd position.
mpace6a Posted May 12, 2012 Posted May 12, 2012 Question about the vacuum lines, because mine connected to a line that went to my tcase, can i pull that too and just plug where it connected at the tcase, or is that needed for other things?
AW-100 Posted June 14, 2012 Posted June 14, 2012 Easier fix. Remove the disconnect, slide the collar to 'locked', reinstall the disconnect upside down. The fork will now hold the collar in the 4wd position. How does this CAD work? You apply vacuum to engage the front axle, and if you cut vacuum it disengages? So if I install the disconnect upside down, the "lack of vacuum" wil engage the axle?
Pete M Posted July 28, 2012 Author Posted July 28, 2012 Question about the vacuum lines, because mine connected to a line that went to my tcase, can i pull that too and just plug where it connected at the tcase, or is that needed for other things? Â yes, just plug it at the t-case and you'll be fine. :thumbsup: Â Easier fix. Remove the disconnect, slide the collar to 'locked', reinstall the disconnect upside down. The fork will now hold the collar in the 4wd position. How does this CAD work? You apply vacuum to engage the front axle, and if you cut vacuum it disengages? So if I install the disconnect upside down, the "lack of vacuum" wil engage the axle? Â No, the CAd fork wants to be in the one posistion (probably held there by a spring). If you do as Bounty says, part of it is removing all the vacuum lines. no vacuum will be applied to anything anymore. :thumbsup:
aaronbtxnc Posted August 16, 2012 Posted August 16, 2012 So to be clear on the easier way to do it, remove the cover, slide the collar (in the axle part still) over to locked, reinstall the cover upside down, disconnect and plug vac lines. Is that correct?
Virginia Posted August 22, 2012 Posted August 22, 2012 And this will cause 4wd all the time right? Â And for some reason, the pictures are not loading for me.
Pete M Posted August 22, 2012 Author Posted August 22, 2012 no. 4wd is still controlled by your t-case lever. :thumbsup: this mod simply makes your 2-piece axle shaft into a 1 piece axle shaft. The CAD was a well-meaning attempt by Jeep to try and gain MPGs and reduce wear. Too bad it does neither and just causes headaches for owners. :shake: all Jeeps after the early 90s have a one-piece axle shaft (with the 95 YJ being the last one).
Pete M Posted August 22, 2012 Author Posted August 22, 2012 I can see the photos. :dunno: make sure your computer is accepting cookies from the photos' host site.
chopper35nj Posted October 11, 2012 Posted October 11, 2012 I would never weld my front spiders but the cad makes a lunch box locker a selectable locker.
Pete M Posted October 31, 2012 Author Posted October 31, 2012 not really. it makes all your front end power run through a single tiny ujoint (divers side) which is not really a good thing. a selectable locker offers you locked or open, but both front tires will always be splitting the power between them.
greybeauty Posted November 14, 2012 Posted November 14, 2012 My 4wd indicator does not light up (in addition to not engaging the front axle) when shifting the transfer case to 4H, 4L or N. Is this related to he CAD/vacuum? If the CAD lock fix is applied, does the indicator always stay on even if in 2WD mode?
greybeauty Posted November 14, 2012 Posted November 14, 2012 Is it more expensive/harder to fix the vacuum lines (leak) than do the CAD lock?
skidoo_j Posted November 14, 2012 Posted November 14, 2012 Is it more expensive/harder to fix the vacuum lines (leak) than do the CAD lock? Â Well you have 4 lines that run from the engine bay to the back of the transfer case then run along the passenger side to the front axle. There are t's, check valves, a vacuum switch at the transfer case, a vacuum res in front bumper on passenger side. All of these could be at fault or a contributor. Then there's the diaphragm at the cad. With all the hoses and connections each could crack or the rubber grommets can brittle and nolonger making good seals. Â checking all the fittings and hoses I think would take about as long as doing the clip and flip lock method. Let alone the time trying to ensure all the hoses are connected correctly, as the colored hoses go to steel lines so you have to follow out each steel line trying to make sure you don't get crossed up too. Total cost to flip this over and lock it is just your time and can easily be reversed once you find the time to fix/repair the vacuum system if you desired.
AW-100 Posted November 14, 2012 Posted November 14, 2012 BUT after the flip / CAD fix the 4x4 light won't com on at all. But you have that already... :D
Bounty Hunter Posted December 13, 2012 Posted December 13, 2012 So to be clear on the easier way to do it, remove the cover, slide the collar (in the axle part still) over to locked, reinstall the cover upside down, disconnect and plug vac lines. Is that correct? This is correct. Cheap easy fix, especially if your CAD fails on the trail. Â I've also used a vacuum switch from a SJ with Quadratrac to manually control the vacuum to the front axle. Works well if the lines are intact. I ran a welded front diff for years with a manual disconnect, now run a vacuum disco d44 switched to a cable disconnect, with a front spool. Traction.
anti-christ-comanche Posted December 16, 2012 Posted December 16, 2012 i just did this the other day but I'm just wondering were do i refill the fluid..the differential is full will the CAD housing fill back up from there by itself?
skidoo_j Posted December 16, 2012 Posted December 16, 2012 i just did this the other day but I'm just wondering were do i refill the fluid..the differential is full will the CAD housing fill back up from there by itself? Â You shouldnt' have lost enough fluid to make a difference. Yes the fluid from the diff will get over to the cad and stop at that seal. You could always check your diff fluid in 100 miles or so...
GirsMJ86 Posted April 23, 2013 Posted April 23, 2013 Would you look at that... I got an officially posted write-up. Good thing I didn't delete those pics when I cleaned up my photobucket account awhile ago. Glad to see it has come in handy for others. :cheers:
cruiser54 Posted September 22, 2013 Posted September 22, 2013 Is there a link to just the write-up with the photos and diagrams?
GirsMJ86 Posted September 23, 2013 Posted September 23, 2013 Not sure I understand. Isn't that basically what the first post that Pete made by combining quotes is?
cruiser54 Posted September 23, 2013 Posted September 23, 2013 Pretty much. I was wondering if it was by itself though. It's probably the best write-up I've seen.
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