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Posted

I've got a one-piece shaft in the cad housing. It's temporary until I can swap in a non-cad axle. But if I pull up in 4x4, put it back in 2wd, I can still spin the fronts. It won't disengage until I'm moving and let off the gas. Should I look into that?

 

Pretty normal. You have to tap the gas and let off driving in a straight line to get the bind out of the drivetrain. 

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Posted

Cool, thanks. That's what I thought. But back to my original thought, the 4x4 light shouldn't go out until 4x4 has disengaged, (regardless of lever position) thus serving at least a small purpose, correct?

Posted

Cool, thanks. That's what I thought. But back to my original thought, the 4x4 light shouldn't go out until 4x4 has disengaged, (regardless of lever position) thus serving at least a small purpose, correct?

 

When the front axle disengages. 

Posted

have you ever had the CAD collar kick back out into 2wd, doesnt really happen going forward only in reverse when I'm getting into the throttle

Posted

have you ever had the CAD collar kick back out into 2wd, doesnt really happen going forward only in reverse when I'm getting into the throttle

Nope. Loss of vacuum due to one or more faulty components in a poorly engineered system can surely cause problems though. 

Posted

well at one point i was in reverse and i herd want sounded like i squeal then want sound like the collar spinning on the axles so today i locked it in, and tried it out so far no noises, I'm liking it, and the light didnt come on even with the lines plugged, oh well, I'm glad it works

Posted

another thing I know the the drive shaft wasn't meant to be going all the time so i know its not balanced, but going down a snow covered road when i hit throttle in 4wd i could feel a vibration about 35mph, when i let off it went away. shouldn't it shake all the time if the drive shaft is constantly spinning

Posted

yea and ive already replaced one u joint, but it shook even in 2wd then, now it only does it on 4wd at higher speeds

Posted

yea and ive already replaced one u joint, but it shook even in 2wd then, now it only does it on 4wd at higher speeds

Did you get the center pin between the 2 rear u-joints with the grease needle? 

Posted

Both. You need to pull the driveshaft down from the transfer case and grease the center pin with a "needle".  I'm guessing the rear joints didn't get greased properly since they're such a b*@$£ to get to. 

Posted

so at certain speeds between 35 and 50 while hitting the gas it would shake, cuz at 50 the vibration lessened (almost gone) but u could still feel a slight one. and when i let off it will stop. all bec. they need greasing, also the one i replaced, i gave it a grease-less one.

Posted

so at certain speeds between 35 and 50 while hitting the gas it would shake, cuz at 50 the vibration lessened (almost gone) but u could still feel a slight one. and when i let off it will stop. all bec. they need greasing, also the one i replaced, i gave it a grease-less one.

Very possible. YOu replaced u-joints on the front driveshaft or the rear? 

Posted

I think you need to inspect the rear u-joints on the front driveshaft, along with the u-joints in the rear shaft to make sure they're tight. The only way to properly lube the rear joints on the front shaft is to remove it from the transfer case and bring it down where you can access all the fittings. 

Posted

so it would only vibrate while giving gas?

 

In 4wd, yes..

 

I think you should give those joints a good lube and looking over no matter what. 

 

On a side note, check to see if your exhaust pipe is touching the trans crossmember due to worn engine and/or trans mounts. 

Posted

lol and on that side note yes the pipe does hit the crossmember at times but only because I'm missing the clamp that slides into that rubber bushing on the crossmember, tans to crossmember mount is new.

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