AW-100

MJ have now been sold, and has been replaced by a 1987 XJ 4.0.

Anyone know the direction of coolant on the pre-87? The 87-> goes water pump-thermostat-upper hose-radiator-lower hose-engine block.

Good point... No collapsing, all new hoses. But if they mounted wrong waterpump ( pushing in stead of pulling ) the waterpump will send coolant in the wrong direction... And with thermostat closed, coolant is pushed out if lid is off... Hmmm...

Yeah, but it does not build enough pressure to get pushed out of the system... The water level is constant in the overflow tank, engine on or of, engine hot or cool. That's why I think maybe a clogged radiator causes the water pump to push coolant out through the neck in stead of down through the radiator with the lid off. Hence also builds pressure. Anyone know the difference btw <-86 and 87-> water pump?

When I start the engine it starts building pressure in the coolant system. But it does not get high enough to push coolant into the overflow canister, unless I open the radiator lid before the pressure has gone down. I have a Brand new radiator lid, so I believe the pressure relief valve is correct. If I run the engine without the radiator lid, coolant is pushed out of the radiator through the open neck. I've changed the cylinder head, and replaced the gasket. Thermostat is new. Engine temp and heater system works fine. No access smoke. Oil is fine, no oil residue in coolant. So I hope that it's not the compression entering the cooling system. Now, this is a 1986 2,5gasoline. But in Norway it has been registered as a 1987. I see that there are different water pumps ->86 and 87-> Could it be that the previous owner fitted a -87 waterpump on the -86 engine, causing too much flow? ( Wrong size belt pulley for example? ) Maby in conjunction with a partly clogged radiator? ( Have not cleaned the system yet, waiting for a new radiator. )

Nice... Have that number noted for my next shipment overseas.

MJ has a 3" Skyjacker, and I saw the end links were kind of strained. Noticed that the 1991-> XJ/MJ had longer end links than my -86, 8,25" vs 7,25" original. Ordered a set of Raybestos 545-1038B, they worked FINE.

Sooo... Y mean drop shackles, as to lower a Chevy truck, will actually lift an MJ? Like... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bel-6403 ?

Is there a difference between steering stabilizers on 4WD and RWD Comanches? Now my local parts dealer can supply me with a Monroe SC2928 stabilizer, but it is listed as for RWD models, and off course mine is 4WD. None of the other stabilizers I have found are specified for 4WD or RWD. Now- Can I use the Monroe damper or do I have to order an other from the US? Then I'll have to pay AT LEAST the value of the damper just for shipping to Europe.

BUT after the flip / CAD fix the 4x4 light won't com on at all. But you have that already... :D

Can I connect some of the plugged vacuum lines at the CAD to get vacuum to the switch again?

This litle blue thingy in the lower corner? -yeah, I do have some wiring to sort out...

My MJ has no 4x4 light. Is it an electrical switch on the transfer, or is it vacuum operated, and where do I find the switch? I believe it to be a 207 transfer, as it is a 1986 2,5 with AX-4 and part time 4x4. The CAD has been welded, and the vacuum lines to the axle has been plugged.

1- Assembled in the US J- By the Jeep Cooperation T- Truck H- 2,46 AMG Inline Gasoline w/TBI X- 4speed Manual Part time 4WD 65- Comanche Truck 4WD LWB. 7ft bed, 120in wheelbase 1- Comanche Custom Standard 1- Check digit G- 1986 T- Built in the Toledo, Ohio plant 165016- Serial number 33.386 vehicles produced in 1986.

Thanks guys, feel like an idiot here... Pulled the cb for the radio, and all went silent... :) Shoud've asked here half a year ago... :D

Thanx. My radio is hooked directly to the battery, not through the original wiring at all. And the problem was there also without radio. I'll start pulling relays in the morning! :)

I cannot turn off the Ignition on my MJ. When I shut down the engine all electrical components keep running, like fan, wipers, flashers, headlights etc. No change between on, acc or off. The battery is new, but gets depleted after a couple of days if I don't unhook the battery when parked. I've looked over all wiring harness around the steering column and Ignition, and changed Ignition switch but no better. Any pointers? 1986/7 MJ wit a 2,5l AMC 150 and manual transmission.

BTW, I've checked and checked again, the 4x4 works fine... Allmost impossible to drive in 4x4 in turns on dry pavement, and no problems whatsoever straight forward. So I guess the tacky, rookie-weld on my front axle is actually the previous owner that has fixed the CAD permanentely! Else, if I park the car for some time, the battery depletes during a couple of days. Seems like the ignition switch is hot-wired: I have electricity available to all systems also without keys. So- Quickfix, while I wait for new ignition switch in order: The grille (which I have mounted the right way) is hinged in the top, and with a main current switch mounted within. Was kinda hard having to disconnect the battery whenever parked. Now, I can do it through the grille! Else, I've roofed the ceiling, which was only noise insulation, which was sagging in the corners to make things perfect... The lines in the ceiling are not visible without the flash on the camera... :D Also, I had these nice light switches mounted: Had to fabricate new light switch panels with new switches installed. Kinda satisfied myself... :) Else, lots and lots of electrical wiring I've had to redo, the previous owner had no clue what so ever how to hook up anything electrical... :doh:

Well, there HAS been some progress in my garage... :) 505cm of car is a bit too much for my little suburban garage, so this was my view for 2 months as I waited for all the parts I needed to mount my engine together. (Broke some parts on the way, had to order overseas...) Cylinder heas is out. Had some oil spill on the head gasket between cyl #3 and 4 towards the pushrods, hence the pressure in my cooling system. Cylinder head mounted. Broke the MAP-sensor though, so another 14 days of standstill... Finally, everything mounted. Have some leak from the thermostat housing, I'll take it when I get the time... Some other issues I have to address first. But at least she's rolling again!

Yeah, it was exported to Norway and registered Here in 1987, as a 1987 model...

What do you need to do to "upgrade" to Metric ton package, and where do you Get the documents needed to change the Max load on the truck / bed?

New Q: How do you change the ratio of an axle? Is it enough to just pull out the driveshafts, yank out the differential and replace it with the new one?

1986 Jeep Comanche 2,5TBI, with Aisin AX-4 manual transmission. Lives in Tromso, Northern Norway, fist time registered here 07.07.1987. I bought her 2months ago, and I must admit that I bought my self some work... I have now dismounted the cylinder head as the engine was using a lot of coolant. I also discovered lots of oil in the area between cylinder 3 and 4 and the pushrods, so I have bought a new cylinder head from a 1993 XJ. It is fitted with a Skyjacker 3in lift, with replacement springs and Nitro shocks, ad add-a-leaf in the rear. Therefore I can fit 31"10,5-15 GY Wrangler ATR nicely. And yeah, I have flipped the grille the right way... :D

Yeah, an other positive way is to get the CAD to work, and try to drive in 4low...

As I feared, my rear was tagged with hence I do have 4.11 in my rear... I'll have to check around bit to see if I need an axle swap up front. Luckily, I got a front on the buy, the previous owner said it was from the donor for the rear... I think he said he hadn't swapped axles up front, "he added it as spare parts" :mad: And today, I got to turn the grille the right way... :banana: