TNT

any info on the cage would be great. Thanks

Will do. :D I never recieved any business cards... :roll: I could use some

http://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/jeep/index.jsp?screenName=recall&country=canada&emailUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fapp01.extra.daimlerchrysler.com%2Fwccs%2Fca%2Findex_en.jsp

If you shift into first gear(low) and yank it off it is easier and saves your knuckles...

If you want it to ride like crap you do. His angle is about perfect. I wonder wow far forward it goes at full droop. I run a lift shackle with the body mounting hole forward. I have 12" of travel no problem. If I had a short shackle or it was at 90 degrees it would limit my droop. Here is my shackle at rest. As you can see my springs are quite arched and provide about 3" of lift. They are Stanley replacement springs. Image Not Found

Nice. :cheers: It should work good. I wouldn't trust it to hold a heavy load thou. :brows:

You need to remove the funky overload springs and the air shocks. Hopefully after that the springs won't be bent from the overload springs. If they are bent pick up some used MJ springs and cut the spring eyes off of the old main leafs so you can use them as a full length add a leaf. I would have to lose the hitch. It's mounts might work good for a 2"x6" tube bumper thou. :brows: What are your goals for it? Tire size? Lift? It looks like there's an oil leak that needs to get fixed. How does it run?

If I was soo far away, it would be mine.

I think skill and experence have more to do with it. I do things that some people would call a lack of common sense or crazy. That doesn't make me a bad driver. I just was out playing in the snow in 2wd and was able to drift it, fishtail it, use the e-brake for steering a few times. This was done on empty back roads surrounded by farmers fields by the way. I was able to drift, powerslide and use the e-brake to go about 1/2 a mile without ever hooking up soild. I used common sense since I chose a safe area where I could see any traffic(there was none), no houses and no ditches. The skill and experence allowed me to do what I did while maintaining control. At no point did my XJ do anything that wasn't planned. I was testing out the 33x10.50 in 2wd to see how the handled. I like to be "in tune" with my vehicle to know how it will perform at the ragged edge and have avoided many accidents because I knew what the vehicle was capable of. Some I was able to power and steer to avoid them. I have went off road to avoid an accident because stopping in time wasn't an option since they ran a stop sign, but the car behind me did hit them... I have been to driving courses, raced and have driven about 600,000 miles over the years. When driving around day to day I drive carefully, but defensively. I don't fly down the highway in snow, unlike many drivers do. I want to get to where I'm going without an issue. I prefer to drive in the snow on backroads instead of main roads because of "other drivers". I think most drivers should take a few driving courses and learn about understeer, oversteer and how to control it and avoid it. Most drivers don't have a clue about how there vehicle will perform at it's limits. Knowledge, intelligence, skill, experence, how well you know your vehicles handling, common sense and how you react under pressure are the main things that make a good driver. Do you watch the car ahead of you or do you do that and "read" what is happening ahead of them also... Can you make a split second choice when something does happen or do you slam on the brakes and hope to stop... Do you ride peoples a$$'s or give them some space so you can react and also see what is going on ahead of them.... Do you teach your kids about understeer, oversteer and how to handle driving in the snow if they start to slide. Did you have them do panic stops on comand so they know what to expect when they need to do it. I could go on and on about this. I hate following people and prefer to lead so I can see and not worry about the idiot on the phone in front of me..... I also hate antilock brakes, traction control and vehicle stability programs. They are all BS that is made for driver who don't have a clue... They degrade the handing because they take control over driver input which drives me crazy. They do help most people though. I kept overdriving the SRT-8's stability control at Road America. It would get confused and basicly just did nothing for about 2 seconds exiting corners. The instructer had me driving with it disabled after 6 laps and my lap times were way better after that. It was more fun too. Drifting to the outside of the track under power after just catching the rub strips on the apex of the corners was a blast. As was hitting about 150mph on the back straight. :D :cheers:

This is the one I'm building except I'm building a custom bed among other things... :brows: The cab is 9" longer because it's using 2dr XJ doors. :chillin: Image Not Found

FYI, if you need to drive it to were you need to work on it have some crank it while you hit the tank with a rubber mallet. It cause the brushes to move around and the pump will start running. Just don't shut it off untill you get to where you need to work on it.

NO! do you have a 4wd transmission? I sure hope so, because you're gonna be sorely disapointed when you figure out you can't bolt the t-case up to the 2wd case (output shaft and tail housing is different) so, you need a complete transmission. at which point you should be looking for a complete cherokee with the correct transmission for a good deal...that would be cheaper and give you everything you need. -Pat What he said :agree:

Traclok's work ok. I hate when a posi spins open in turns when I want both tires to spin. :mad: I hate when once you are out sideways, you let-up on the gas some and the axle unlocks :headpop: There is nothing like parking at the store and have the squealing tire freak out old people and make small children run. :D I have had a '69 Cutlass 310hp 3540ci muncie M22 4speed and a 3.90 geared welded rear 10 bolt axle. I also had a '71 Cutlass 455/auto with a 4.10 geared welded rear 12 bolt axle. My '73 Dodge W150 4x4 with a built 360/auto and a welded 8 3/4" rear axle was a blast. The CJ-5 6cyl 4 speed with a welded 4.10 geared D44. I don't like a stick with a welded/spooled axle. They like to get sideways on decel in turns in the rain when you don't expect it. You just need to be prepared... ;) My MJ 4.0/auto will have a spooled 5.13 geared 9" rear axle. :chillin: I love how a welded/spooled axle is predictable with a auto. It has its downfalls but you know both tires get power. :brows:

Forget about it. It will make you want to go straight instead of turn and it will break axles /u-joints.

I haven't built mine yet. The engine mount bracket is built by M.O.R.E. You can run longer shocks with your shock brackets lowered like these. Image Not Found Poly performance 3-link Image Not Found Image Not Found Stadium racer Image Not Found Nice upper shock mount. Image Not Found Nice cage Image Not Found Braced and plated frame. Image Not Found Image Not Found Frame side engine mount Image Not Found Rear spring plate Image Not Found

Combine that with this.... :D A few dry pavement donuts are a blast too. In the snow you can drive it like drift race car too. :brows:

MJ springs are too long. But there is a better choice. Use 1/2 ton Dodge B-van fullsize leaf springs and 1.5" lift boomerang shackles. 1/2 and 3/4 ton B-van springs have the same spring length from the front eye to the center pin. They are 3" longer from the center pin to the rear eye. The extra length will correct your shackle angle. The 1.5" lift boomerang shackle is needed because of the longer leaf so the shackle won't hit the shackle box. The extra spring length and shackle will improve your ride and will increase your flex by allowing for more droop. You can use your XJ bottom leaf to replace the overload leaf. If needed you can cut the eyes off of your XJ main leaf and use it as a full length add a leaf.

X2. Here's how I did mine w. costs. Got the Hella 200mm H4 e-code glass lamp shells from Susquehanna Motor Sports ($34/ea). Then picked up from eBay four IPF 80w/60w H4 bulbs ($10 w. shipping, but you can used any wattage H4 bulb you want) and wired in a universal APC 4-lamp wiring harness w. relays (much cheaper than the 2-lamp, just cut off the extra two H4 sockets, $9 w. shipping) which fit my MJ perfectly. Then put in a separate fuse block mounted near the PDC on the right fender well and fused each headlight w. 20A fuses. Literally a night and day difference, and a highly recommended upgrade. What he said. :chillin: I build my own harnesses and wiring. I haven't picked up my E-codes lights yet, I just have the 6054HO's.

The RK 4 link will work great. The BDS 4-link is also a great choice. Shocks are the most important thing. 12" to 14" travel 2.5" bypass shocks in the front and 14" travel 2.5" bypass shocks in the rear would be a sweet combo. Mount the rear shocks to the top of the axle and run them threw the bed floor to a custom shock hoop. Combine that with air bumpstops and limiting straps and you should be good to go. Some desert rigs are running a Currie Anti-Rock swaybar in the front to balance out the rig at speed. Then just beef up the axle, frame and cage it. Here's a link to my collection of JeepSpeed pics. Some teaser pics Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Either buy quilaty right hand drive E-code lights or at least 6054HO lights. The 6054HO (High Output) have 55 watt low beams instead of 35 watt ones and 65 watt high beams instead of 55 watt ones. The E-codes lights are great if you get the right ones. You want a glass lens, a chrome like reflector and are not made in china... They have replaceable bulbs, get the 55w/100w white bulbs, don't buy blue lights. Blue lights suck compared to the same white bulb. The blue lights reflect off the water on wet roads instead of lighting the pavement. Either way install a overlay harness with relays that are controlled by the headlight switch. Get power from the alternator with the proper gauge wires to the relays and to the headlights. This will make a big difference because you lose about 1.5-2.5 volts at the headlights with the stock system.

My '95 XJ is welded. I put about 14,000 miles with it welded. I rotate tires every 5,000 miles and my tires have 3/4 of the tread left. I would have got about 50K on a set of them. I like the handing and when I swap the 9" into my MJ it will be spooled. I have DD a welded rearend in all weather conditions and prefer it to a locker in the rear diff.

Abso friggin' loutely!! I didn't know freakin' liberals owned tire stores!!! None of there frikin' business what they are for or off of. There business is selling mounting and installing tires. You have work for them. Tell them to just mount the tires and STFU. :eek: :D :roll: :brows: CW x 2

Just bring in the rims and tires in the back of the truck and tell them it is for an off highway rig. The problem comes in if they put them on your MJ.

Air soft BB's is how you balance them.

He was going to have his springs rearched not replaced and was also complaining they were too soft. He is wondering if he could add a leaf to his current springs to stiffen them up.