TNT

nah just build a box over your valve cover, hook it up to your intake, cut a hole in your hood that a hood scoop will fit, and have a sweet @$$ shaker.... :brows: Just go and find you a big flat air filter from advance to fit in the box.. That could be cool. It would still get hood vents. Too bad the M.O.R.E. motor mounts keep the engine from hardly moving. I like the look of a nice cowl scoop that is made with matching body lines.

Mine hates it, to say the least. But she knew about me and my 4x4's and fast cars when she married me 20 years ago.

No pictures yet, just a plan of attack. I plan on building a cowl hood scoop using 2 hoods. I'll cut the scoop out of one hood and weld it to the other hood. One side will be for cold air intake and the other side will be for venting the underhood temps. I will run a divider down the length of the scoop. A box will be made to seal to the hood and contain the air filter. A small dam will be made to divert any rain water to drain holes in the front of the scoop on the intake side. I would also like to add 2 small vent on the front outside corners in between the braces. These will be in a low pressure area to help pull air threw the radiator at speed. and let out hot air when going slow.

I'll eventually being putting disks on my 88's 9" purely to eliminate having to clean out the mud. No other reason. I hate pulling off the tires and drums when the entire vehicle is wet and muddy. :( With the internal drum emergency brakes like a ZJ or 8.8 or without? I plan on going without. After a heavy mud trip I'll still have to clean the vents in all 4 rotors thou.

Has anyone put that wide of a tire on a lowered jeep? I know you can get the right offset wheels and/or wheel spacers so that they don't rub, but I would be nervous that it would in the front at full lock. They measure out to 11.2" wide. Not too bad for rubbing, but it would hit. They are 27" tall which would fit. I can fully bottom a 31x10.5-15 without springs in and turn from lock to lock with only light LCA contact. The shorter tire wouldn't hit on the right rims. A better combo would be 4.10 frt gears with 275/35ZR19 tires and 4.88 rear gears with 305/40ZR22 tires. This would have a top speed of 130mph with 2500rpm at 65mph. That would be a 26.5"x10.9" front tire and a 31.5"x12.4" rear tire. The front should clear without rubbing. I wouldn't lower it more then 1" in the front when compared to a 2wd ride height and about 2"-3" in the rear so it sits level. Now that would be wicked

The reason the XJ rotors and calipers didn't work better was the master cylinder must be able to supply the larger amount of fluid the bigger calipers require. Disc brakes are great, but a drum brake can work fine in our application. If more stopping power is need larger wheel cylinders will do it way cheaper then a disc swap. Wheel cylinders cost about $10.00 each. I agree discs are the best, but if your budget is limited the drums can easily get the job done. The big problem with XJ/MJ brakes is the suck... The front brakes need to be larger(one reason I'm swapping to a frt HP D44), the rear brakes are underpowered and the booster/master cylinder needs help also. I will be doing a rear disc swap on my rear 9" axle. I will aso figure out the correct booster/master cylinder combo. I want to have enough brake power to lock-up 35's on dry pavement with power left to spare.

Semantics. In order for me to consider something an "upgrade" it has to be significantly better than what it replaces, not just different. I grew up working on modified stock cars that would lock up all four big, fat racing tires being driven by full-race 427 Chevy engines -- using drum brakes with no power boosters. You're going to have to work very hard to convince me that disc brakes are inherently "better" than drum brakes. If you think they're better and you want to go through the hassles of making the conversion, be my guest. Personally, I just don't see any point to it. ZJ and 8.8 discs also have drum brakes that packs up with mud too. Stock Dana 44 MJ rear brakes can be upgraded to 3 or 4 larger sized wheel cylinders. With a wheel cylinder upgrade they easily have more stoppiing power then a ZJ/8.8 style disc brake could ever have. With the $20.00 it costs to buy larger wheel cylinders you can get so much more stopping power that you will need to do a drastic upgrade in the front to balance it out. Now if you were going to use a pinion mounted e-brake and some larger vented rear discs and larger calipers that would rate as a good step up in braking power.

You adjust the drag link to center the steering wheel. It won't affect the toe setting.

Three auto techs walk into the bathroom to use the urinal. One works for Ford, one for Chevy and one for Jeep. When the Ford tech gets done he washes his hands real well and uses 3 sheets of paper towel to dry his hands. He looks at the other 2 techs and says at Ford they teach use to be very thorough and walks out. The Chevy tech gets done he washes quickly, dries his hands with 1/2 a piece of paper towel just as the Jeep tech gets done. He looks at the Jeep tech and says at Chevy they teach us to be very efficient. The Jeep tech walks past him and says at Jeep they teach us not to piss on our hands...

Just cut the fenders some and remount the flares. The XJ I'm driving right now has about 3" of lift and it has 33x10.5-15's on some 15x7 rims with 4" of backspacing. They don't rub at all. The sawzall is your friend. Yes I did say 33's... I wonder how big of a tire I could fit with my fenders cut like this with no lift? My guess would be 34" tires at least. Image Not Found That's 6" of lift with a 33" tires that are now on my XJ. There is 14" from the top of the tire to the flare.

Since the rubi 44 runs on the coast side of the gear this makes it weaker. A HP D30 runs on the drive side of the gear which almost makes up for any strength lost due to the size difference. I have a '77 HP D44 that I will be building. It has 1/2" wall axle tubes and real brakes that will have much more stopping power. It will need alloy shafts and good u-joints like CTM's to handle 35"-36" tires without breakage problems. My weak point should de the lockouts. I aslo have a HP D60 I could use but it is huge and wieghs a ton. It's just overkill IMO. If I planed on 38's or larger it would be my first choice

Unless you are getting a real good deal, I would stick with a HP D30. The rubi axle is a low pinion which is about the same as HP D30 strength wise. The brakes aren't any better and it uses the same u-joints as a D30 can. The axle shafts still have a neck down in them that makes them about the same strength as a D30. It's not much of an upgrade. You do get 4.10 gears and a locker. The 4.10 gear is in a 4cyl d30 so all you really gain is the locker and a slight increase in housing strength. For the money you could make a HPD30 stronger then a rubi 44. Unless a D44 has alloy shafts, is a HP and uses real D44 outer axle/brake parts it really isn't much of an upgrade.

Sweet :cheers:

That one kicks a$$

How about a nitrous go kart

Water is nothing for a new sled to cross

How about a 263' snowmobile jump...

Fixed it

Thats lookng real good. I figured you would be working in the heated garage on that today. :cheers:

How'd you like to be the guy driving the car in this one? Just imagine the embarrassment. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtbioUR60N4 WTF!! Did that Trans-Am just get smoked by a snowmobile!! I going up north to ride one of those bad boys!!! Smoking the motocycle is better yet.

hahahaahaahahaaaa I loved the part where the guy crawls across the desk a wallows that dude!!! :popcorn: That part is cool I like the old guys response to the paper air planes... :cheers:

How'd you like to be the guy driving the car in this one? Just imagine the embarrassment. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtbioUR60N4 Or be the guy on the crotch rocket...

Thats a good one. I like the one Pats dad showed me. Who needs snow, Looks like fun.

Or if you like going for a ride

Cool But what if you had a bad day http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4a1z7NLnNk