TNT

I would put a nut over it and mig weld it on.... Then I buzz it off with an impact. Works great if you have a welder and an impact. ;) BTW the knuckle is not an area you should heat.

I have done it a couple time a few years ago. At least it was hot and I left the window down an inch. I was able to push the door lock button with a broom handle on the other side. I have also left my auto in gear after I shut it off. At least it was on level ground. I got back in and I'm what the he11 it won't start... Duh.... :roll:

Now thats what I call a flying Squirrel!!!! :eek: :cheers:

A semi dealer might carry the shouldered bolts you need. Sorry about not telling you sooner. I have owned newer XJ's that didn't use bolts. I went out and checked my MJ to find out what you needed.

You need a socket like this... :brows: I'm not sure what size.... :roll:

The bolts in the picture are external Torx bolts, not 12 point.... You need an external Torxs socket. :D

External torxs bolts. Fun, fun.... :cheers:

yes you are right 3:55 and lower for carriers but the rubicon doesnt come with an arb its an air locker but it isnt arb...but I'm not really interested in the air locker all though that would be sweet I'm just looking for a cheap way to regear my rear end since finding a dana 44 off an xj or mj is very rare and tjs with 44s are a dime a doen to where i can pick one up at a junk yard.... Finding a MJ D44 with stock 4.09 gears isn't that hard..... I have one laying on my garage floor. I'm going with a 9" axle instead.

damn i feel like a rock...what does IIRC mean ? i want to get maybe 3:73 or 4:10 since mine probably has the 3:07 so i know i need the carrier as well...sorry bud I'm a newb!! lol... If I recall correctly = IIRC The Rubicon 4.10 gears uses the same carrier as a 3.07 does. The gears are what is called thick D44 gears.

It use's a thick gear so you need a carrier for 3.07-3.55 gears IIRC.

They have a bend in them so 31"-32" tires clear on stock rims. They can limit flex, they are boxed so they won't twist like the stock ones do.

Don't bother with the 1" pipe exo cage. 1 3/4" .120 tube should be minimum. Pipe is for poop.

That's a good possibility. It's simple to redo. I would redo it and then rebleed the system.

4.10 I believe.

Did you bench bleed the mastercylinder?

I know where ther is a HP D44 in a F-250 so it mount in easy. It also has a 60 rear. They should cost about $225.00 for the pair.

I know everyone freaks when people run without a swaybar. I have my reasons, but also plan on setting the suspension up so sway won't be as much of an issue. Soft springs need a swaybar. I will be running stiff springs since I will be cutting down Skyjackers 7.5" springs to get the ride hieght I want and to increase the spring rate. I will also be using a custom mid-length 3 link with a track bar and 5" wider axles. If I don't like it I will add an Anti-Rock sway bar. I will probably also run a rear spool so everyone can freak again...

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Proportioning_Valve_Mod.htm

Some people have had good luck removing the O-ring for the rear brakes in the proportioning valve. IIRC the difference between the XJ & ZJ is the proportioning valve.

It would fit my 95 HO just fine

Read this http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARbrakeBoosterUpgrade/BrakeBoosterUpgrade.htm The rear discs will work fine with the booster. Worst case use a ZJ master for rear discs.

He would have to move them a long way because it sound like he is planning on using them in the front.,,,

I have been planning a 4 link for the rear probably next winters project. For spring mounts I plan on cutting off some from a XJ or a MJ axle and cutting off the upper mounts the front uses. Stock XJ or MJ springs should be about right. For joints the 3" Ballistic Fab flex joints with 1.25" studs are planned and some 2.5" studded flex joints would be used. I'll cut my own mounts for the control arms and build it all myself. I like to fab as much as I like to wheel. I take pride in building it myself. Your plan seems like a good one. The 3 link should work well. I'm relocating my fuel tank so I'll have room for a 4 link double triangulated setup.

I plan on running 7100 series shocks with 275/78 valving or some 9100 bypass shocks.

I want the Skyjacker coils for the stiff rate since I won't be running a swaybar and they do a great job on high speed hits. They will also help balance out the flex front to rear. I also run a heavy bumper and will be adding a winch and a bunch of other things that will add weight. My problem is my rear will be at about 7.5" of lift if not more.