TNT

You should have been selling them to XJ and MJ guys... :D

A SYE is the best way to go, but it's not needed. A YJ yoke will work. A SYE does keep the driveshaft from hitting rocks as often and will allow for better driveline angles. It will also tip up the diff and that will sometimes cause pinion bearings to fail.

If his rear yoke doesn't bottom out at full flex he will be good to go. The YJ yoke allows for 25+ degrees of flex. I ran it on my XJ with 5.5" of lift and 7" of droop. I could have added about 10" more droop before it would bind up and that was with a shorter driveshaft. I ran it at a constant 15 degree operating angle with no problems.

That is what I am thinking, unless a t-case drop would help. Have around 6.5" of lift. a Ford 8.8 SOA with 4x4 springs that have no sag. That looks like about 8"-9" of lift. The YJ yoke allows for a much more angle at the transfer case. Probably double what your stock yoke offers if not more.

Replace your slip yoke with a YJ yoke to fix the front. Image Not Found

yeah I could draw it out on autocad and print it to make a template think I should tack the studs on the back? Just drill the hole thr right suze and a tack won't be needed.

A brass punch and a BFH makes the studs pop right out without damage. The hardest part will be locating and drilling the new holes in the correct spot and making them the right size for the studs.

The bolt pattern is a 5" circle that is the centered on the axle or hub(2.5"radius). You will only be moving the studs out 1/4" on each side. Just center the new holes in between the original holes.

You could just redrill the front hub/rotors and the rear axles/drums. Dual pattern rear axles are common and doing the hubs shouldn't be a big deal. The drums and rotors are easy.

It bolts under the frame rail, right where your shackles and springs are.... Maybe you could figure out how to build a mount on the inside of the frame and narrow it as needed. Anyway you look at it it will require a redesign and fab work.

My only choice in motor mounts I'll buy are M.O.R.E. rubber bombproof mounts. My '95 XJ has them and I'm very happy with them.

You use knuckles out. you do need an outer axle unless your 2wd axle is the type with hub bearings then you can use your stub shafts. all 97 and newer XJ axles have 297 u-joints. I forget what they changed on the new axles I would have to search to find out. I'm swapping in a '77HP D44 and a rear 9" axle so I wasn't to concerned with the changes. I do know they made them stronger and went with the 5 on 5" bolt pattern.

hummm... :hmm: you know that might work.. the wj is a grand right? Yep. I've tossed the idea of getting the rear 8.25 from a dodge van or a Dakota or something, and buying new hubs, and moving up in the bolt patters, but hubs are crazy expensive, and I personally wouldn't really want to swap in a used one, beyond a trail spare to get home with. If you do move to the 5x5 setup, you should do a writeup, I think it would be a first, and not all that tough of a job. All new Jeeps, I think are that pattern, but I'm not sure on the libby, it might be the only one left with 5x4.5... I would do a write-up but Ill be making the spacers on a mill. I don't know if that will help anybody.. I will draw it out on cad and post the drawings,, that may help someone in the future. I'm going to seriously look into the wj axle swap though,, might find something ,, IDK have ta' look around. The thing is my truck is 2wd,,,,,,,,,, for now that is :brows: The WJ knuckle /brake swap works on 2wd axles also. You don't want a WJ front axle since it is low pinion for when you go 4x4, use a '97 or newer high pinion D30 4cyl XJ axle with 4.10 gears and 297 u-joints. Better yet find front and rear axles from a 07 Rubi next generation D44 rear and a HP D44 front with 4.10 gears and lockers. Whatever you do don't use a D44 with an aluminum center section, they are junk...

I've gotten out about 15 screws out of headers this way and I haven't found one yet that wouldn't come out. Some do take a few tries thou.

hummm... :hmm: you know that might work.. the wj is a grand right? Yep. I've tossed the idea of getting the rear 8.25 from a dodge van or a Dakota or something, and buying new hubs, and moving up in the bolt patters, but hubs are crazy expensive, and I personally wouldn't really want to swap in a used one, beyond a trail spare to get home with. If you do move to the 5x5 setup, you should do a writeup, I think it would be a first, and not all that tough of a job. All new Jeeps, I think are that pattern, but I'm not sure on the libby, it might be the only one left with 5x4.5... You would need a Jeep axle or adapters. Dakotas are 5 on 4.5" or 6 lug and B vans are 5 on 5.5" I would reuse hubs if they are low milage and from a rearend hit.

I found a trans cooler that was 15"x4" in size and will be mounting it below my radiator behind the bumper. My bumper design allows air flow on the road threw it and this should be large enough to make a difference on the trail too.

That doesn't sound any worse the chain towing cars 15 miles to the junkyard with no brakes and a 30' chain. When my buddy that did this with me asked what to do, I said "Follow me(not like he had a choice) and when we need to stop, I'll stop you after you hit me. Oh ya and put you seat belt on". It was funny @$$ hell, I had a 3/4 ton 4x4 Dodge with a 3/8"wall 10"x3" tube steel rear bumper. After a few trips we started to hit harder and just wipe out the front end of the car. Then there was the time someone pulled out right in front of me at about 45mph, that one buckled the hood and made it fly open. We never did hurt the Dodge... We still laugh about the stupid $#!& we did 20 years ago...

Do you have experience with the part? If so, how well did it fit? Also, what was the shipping cost? I couldn't find mention of it on their website. No shipping cost, I just ran over and picked it up. Fit fine for me, the one I replaced was crushed. Got the header, grill and 2 headlight surrounds for $65. Good price, especially when you are just going to mess it up again. Using junkyard headers isn't an option in MN. I have yet to find one that you could actually get the screws out of without snapping them off. If you have a mig or have a buddy that does, weld some nuts onto the broken screws and they come out.

Would have don't it that if I could. However, no MIG welder and all of the screws broke flush with the surface of the header panel. Mine all broke off flush and they all came out when I welded the nuts to them, I even removed the screws out of my original header after I removed it since I updated mine to a '95 header/grill combo.

Just do a WJ knuckle/brake swap and use the hubs for the front too. That way you shouldn't need a hub spacer to do the swap and you get better brakes and high steer draglink. Just use araised trackbar to eliminate bumpsteer. :chillin: For the rear you could just redrill the axle flange and drum or make the spacers. IMO the rear axle needs to be wider to keep the tires from rubbing on the inner wheelwell/frame when flexed so spacers would be my choice. :D If you do the WJ brake swap and need more rear brake power to balance the braking out just use larger wheel cylinders. There are a few larger sizes available for a D44 and I believe they are the same ones a D35 would use to upgrade too. :brows: This way you would still have some nice wheels and real braking power to. Upgrade to a dual diaphram booster from a 95-96 XJ for even better brakes. :cheers:

Some steel and a welder...

I build as much as I can. I buy parts at salvage yards like my HP D44, Ford 9", Dakota seats, F-150 rims and buy XJ aftermarket parts as needed. I use XJ's as parts rigs too.

You engine is the most efficient if you use the lowest octane you can with pre ignition, ping or knock. The idea is to burn the fuel as fast as possible to get the most efficency out of it. Higher octane fuel won't burn completely and you will lose power and economyboth of whish are determined by efficency. To use E-85 your compression should be about 11 to 1 and your computer must be tuned to run with it because of the different air/fuel ratio needed.

Besure you get a YJ yoke so you don't bind the drive shaft when drooped... It would suck to ruin a good driveline.

I'm willing to do check into this like I said in my PM, keep me updated. Thanks