TNT

Auto on the floor, full console, cupholder over the e-brake all complete.

I know what you mean. Some of the fab work is just incredible. I save tons of pictures like those for ideas and to show me how a pro would do it. A tubing bender, notcher and dimple dies would complete my shop for the most part. Now if I could just fix my back....

I can also just get some parts from it. $300.00 whole or let me know what you need. I just talked to him and he won't be crushing it for about a week or so. It has the Jensen factory speakers or at least the door panels with the covers. It also has power windows, locks and mirrors.

I was just at my friends auto recyclers yard and he has a 90 or so XJ Limited set to go to the crusher next. It has the overhead console it, the complete interior (tan), still has the axles and driveline 4.0 231 case. Should I have him save it? Save it or crush it?

I can get the 203 and the 205 for free so the adapter is the main cost. I like the set-up for strength. The 205 has a 31 spline input with 32 spline outputs front and rear. Both are gear drive. I can also get a e-brake for the rear output. I'm not a fan of running the d300 case upside down. with 5.13 gears in the axles the 203/205 combo will work well. I used to have a Klune 2.7 with an Atlas 3.8 and that was too low. They are suposed to be coming out with a 3 to1 gear for the 203 or 205 I forget. That would be perfect.

I uploaded my collection of Jeepspeed pictures for your viewing pleasure, all 321 of them. Theres a ton of tech to be found, great ideas too.

I plan on setting it up with stock rubber wedge bushings with arms that are about 10" longer. I shoud be able to inboard the arms enough to clear the frame the bend will allow the arm to run straight back along the rail without hitting it. I'm looking forward to having the front end set-up so bothe the froint and rear suspension does the work. It will also do a great job of protecting the driveshaft. If I'm doing it I want to do it the best I can.

Full time is great in the winter when the road is clear for a mile and then its drifted over , clear, the drifted and on and on. You just drive and don't worry about it. It's great in the rain too.

Looks good Wade. If you need help build rock rails let me know. I have all the tools/ welder/grinder/chopsaw/torchs in my garage. Btw which springs are you using. My Stanleys add about 2"-3" more lift the you have. After my axle swaps I will probably be at about 8" of lift or so.

Take a fuel sample in a glass jar. If it looks good, clean or replace all of the plugs and try it again. Also check for spark on a different cylinder, it sould clear a 3/16" gap no problem.

I have had both and run my 242 case if fulltime 99% of the time. I prefer the handling of the 242 case it's is great in snow and rain. It also corners better and is great for getting out in traffic on dry pavement too. I might see about swaping a 242HD from a Dodge Durango I just found, it would have the wider chain and some other stronger parts. I'd like to find out what is differend between the Dodge one and the Hummer H1 model.

I'm swapping in a '77 HP D44 and I think I'm going to use modified ford radius arms. I will be rotating the inner C's for proper pinion and caster angles. Then cut off the stock welded on axle wedges and weld new ones on further inboard. I should be able to set it up with 0 degree radius arm bushings to eliminate as much bind as possible. Then I can use some modified radius arms(like pictured below with 3" ballistic flex joints as the frame mounts to get the arms mounted as high as possible and have them clear the frame. Here are a couple of pictures of what I have in mind for the radius arms. Image Not Found Image Not Found Tell me what you think? Total lift will be about 8.5" or slightly more unless I change the front springs or cut them. I will be going SOA on my 9" rear axle and will adjust the front to match the rear lift or be about 1" lower in the front. The rear has some Stanley springs that add some lift, so do my shackles. I will probably mount the shackles in the rear frame rails to offset thier lift and keep them out of harms way. Your thoughts and opinions are welcome.

For that end result, I'm good with time consuming. Even better that its not that hard to do. A hammer, I'm good with... torque wrench not so much. Anxiously waiting the writeup. I've started it and will hopefully finsh it soon. Maybe I should start a tech thread and add to it as I work on finishing it up.

Call me tomorrow and we can play "Let's make a Deal" or "The Price is Right" :brows:

Well I think I'm going to use modified ford radius arms. I will rotate the inner C's for proper pinion and caster angles. Then cut off the stock welded on axle wedges and weld new ones on further inboard. I should be able to set it up with 0 degree radius arm bushings to eliminate as much bind as possible. Then I can use some modified radius arms with 3" ballistic flex joints to get the arms mounted as high as possible and have them clear the frame. Here are a couple of pictures of what I have in mind for the radius arms. Image Not Found Image Not Found Tell me what you think? Total lift will be about 8.5" or slightly more unless I change the front springs or cut them. I will be going SOA on my 9" and will adjust the front to match. The rear has some Stanley springs that add some lift, so do my shackles. I will probably mount the shackles in the rear frame rails to offset thier lift and keep them out of harms way. Your thoughts and opinions are welcome.

I have a 231 21 spline in my MJ I would part with for your build.

I picked up five 15"x8" rims with the 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern today. Here's a pic Image Not Found I also found my flattop knuckles. a front seat, a Dodge 203 transfer case and a Ford 205 transfer case for a doubler if I want to go that way. All the parts are on hold for me. I may be able to afford a clean box to replace my rusty one :D

Two relays should be used, one for high beam and one for low beam. You should also be using relays for all your driving/fog lights. An upgaded wiring harness is also needed to get the most output from the lights without smoking the stock harness. Get your power directly from the alternator to power your relays. Some good HD inline fuse holders should be used with some 10 to 12 gauge wiring. The headlight switch should also be used to supply power to your driving/ fog light switches so your driving lights will work with your dimmer swiitch. This way you won't ever need to use you driving/fog light switches unless you don't want them on. All the headlight, dimmer, fog and driving light switches should do is control relays. If you have questions or need some help let me know. A good high quality H-4 headlight with glass lenses and a chrome reflectors will make those lights look was dim in comparision. As for bulbs stick with a extreme white style bulb. Colored bulbs are for ricers and refelect off of wet roads making it hard to see. White is the best. HID's might look blue from an angle but are white from the drivers seat.

My plan is to remove the rocker back to where it attaches to the floor on the underside. I will leave about 1/8" of the outside of the rocker face below the door. The rocker rails will be fully welded along both edges. A piece of tube will also be mounted on top of the tube to fill the gap between the rail and the door frame sill plate before the rock rail is welded on. It will be rosette welded to the sill plate also. I will be plating the frame and welding supports from the frame to the rock rails. I might also boatside it from the inner edge of the rock rail to the frame rail so it will slide instead of getting hung up on the supports. The rock rail will extend back to the rear wheel opening on the custom box I'm building. The rail will be welded on to the box and exo rollcage also. I will be using 2"x6" tube with a smaller tube welded to the top of it to attach to the door sill. I will probably add some tube to the outside of the rock rail to make it wider. I want it to extend out far enough to be able to pivot on trees or rocks without body contact

I'm removing the pinch seam completely. I will take pictures and do a how to write-up as I do it.

I'm going to be starting mine very soon. I'm building weld in rocker replacemrnt ones that will eliminate the pinch welds, I have built bolt on style style ones for XJ's in the past. Let me know if you need some help.

I'll be installing lockouts very soon. They are Warn premium lockouts attached to a 77 HP D44. It's also getting bigger brakes, stronger balljoints, higher steering, steeper gearing, a beefier housing with 1/2" thick tubes, a larger ring and pinion, a u-bolt style yoke, the 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern(to match the rear 9"), higher clearance mounts made from thicker steel, a truss, and stronger axle shafts.

who just got a good buy? a-this guy! :brows: There is one in Milwaukee for $145.00 and a couple others local for $200.00. I might know where to get one for $100.00. I picked up my HP D44 and 9" axle for $200.00 total. Maybe we can work a trade if you aren't keeping in. It is 23 spline and needs a spacer to fit becasuse of the longer input shaft.

So are you keeping it or trading it?????

here are some pics. I believe these are the correct ones. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found