TNT

That's my point. Why go through all the work if you're NOT creating at least an extra cab? Doesn't make eny sense to me. I do plan on moving the seat back about 4 to 5 inches. I'm adding 9" to the cab length. I don't want the cab any longer then I have planned. :D If you had a 4 level neck fusion and 11 degenerated discs in your back and were more comfortable with 4 to 5 more inches of leg room it would make more sense to you. The longer door will also make it easier to get in and out... :brows: My $25.00 '98 Dakota seats have adjustable lumbar and are better then the stock bench. At some point I will be putting in the Viper seats from an SRT-4 because they have been the most supportive and comfortable seats I have been in. 8) It will also give me more room for subs behind the seat which work as a great back massager. It makes sense to me and it is my MJ so that's all that matters... :cheers: I didn't know I needed your approval... :roll:

like this? :brows: You may have to be moving slowly to get into 4 hi, but will need to be stopped to get into 4 low. Thats what happens when you drive in 4wd-hi on dry pavement.... A properly functioning NP231 is meant shift from 2wd high to 4wd-hi on the fly. A NP242 case will shift on the fly from 2wd high to 4wd-fulltime to 4wd-hi at 85 mph+. :brows:

About a 1-2mph roll with the transmission in neutral is the proper way to shift from 4wd-hi to 4wd-lo. The gears are slowly turning which allows them to mesh easily.

That a nice looking XJ. I'm starting with a MJ because of the longer wheelbase, stiffer more ridged frame, the longer rear springs that flex way better, the taller roof line, and the fact that it is a pick-up and will still be a pickup when its done, not a SUV with a bed. I might build a custom box and use it. I could also remove the box and still be able to drive around because it has a seperate strong frame under the box.

Sounds like a good plan. I can make some write-ups for the DIY section. Some write-ups will be simple DIY bolt on types. Other will require a certain skill level that can be written for novice but will require a very detailed write-up for a novice to do. Some projects are of an advanced level that would be very difficult to write-up for a complete novice to do. Maybe there could be a few different skill level ratings for DIY write-ups. Some projects require you to have proper welding skills which should be a higher level skill rating. Some things are total custom fabrication which will depend on your lift, axles and other variables to properly build it for your rig. This would be the most advanced type of DIY write-up and would be next to impossible to write at a novice level. I believe there should be a skill level rating of something like 1-5 and the DIY project be written for the people that are capable of each skill level.

The price is well past WOW.... It's more like WOW!!!! Some dealers must hit the crack pipe before they dream up prices :eek:

It sounds pretty decent. Just find a '95 or '96 XJ that has been rearended or wrecked not too badly and use the complete R-134 A/C system and 4wd parts from it. You might get a bunch of other options to add if you find a loaded one. 33's and 4.5" of lift is a combo. Just go SOA in the rear and lift the front like an XJ. :cheers:

Just be sure to box the upper mount and put skids on the lower mounts. Here's a few Jeep speed mount pictures. They use some nice brace work and shock mounts. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

I picked up a rust free passenger door today. Here's a picture comparing a 2dr XJ door to my MJ door. It will make a big difference in room. Image Not Found

Now that sounds like a plan. :cheers:

Thats some sweet carnage. I've seen them tear completely off before. Looks like its time to start cutting and welding. With real steel this time...

That would be cool. JeepcoMJ place is only about 7 minutes from me too. The pow-wow would be cooler by his place, he has more room, a rockpile to play on and can have a bonfire. But if you want to wrench-a-thon I have so much to get done its hard to believe.

Here's a picture comparing a 2dr XJ door to my MJ door. It will make a big difference in room. Image Not Found

Just use a hose and flush your heater core both ways. If your t-stat is good and your diverter valve(if you have A/C) works you will have heat. It will probably take about 15 minutes to fix your problem..

Since I got sick of reading this post and not seeing an answer, I just measuerd my 231 in the garage and my 242 under my XJ... Both measured 17" from the transmission mounting surface to the outside edge of the output seal. They are the same.... Both are '95 and older.

When it's done maybe we can wheel sometime. :cheers:

the doors are 9" i have both sitting in my garage.were did he say he was building an extra cab?he simply wants to be able to move his seat all the way back and maybe recline it some. i don't even think he plans to move the seats are you TNT? The 9" will make a world of difference for me. The seats will move about 4"-5"" further back. It's all because of comfort and my bad back. This is my last build so I'm doing it how I want it... Wait until I get my handicap plates. My back doctor keeps offering them yet and I keep saying no... I could probably get disability if I wanted to. I'm not giving up yet, my daughter is pre-med and my son will be starting college in a year and a half. Once they are threw school I will see how bad I am, if my back lasts that long. Life a b*@$£ sometimes, this is my last 4wd I will be using offroad unless medical science finds a fix...

:huh???: :huh???: :huh???: So you're going through all this work to create a truck that will have zero utilitarian cargo capacity? Methinks you have too much free time available. I'm building this last project rig as my toy. It isn't being built for utilitarian purposes... My back is getting pretty bad so this is my last project. I'm extending the door openings so it is easier to get in and out of. I'm 6'3" so the added room will make it more comfortable for me. It will have all the room to carry everything I want it to carry. I will also be getting a exo-cage over the roof that will tie in to the weld in rockers, the rear of the frame, the rear shock mounts, front suspension and bumper. It will have a hitch to pull a trailer if needed and I also own other cars/suv's that will be used for my "utilitarian" needs. It will have power windows, locks, mirrors, air conditioning, cruise, tilt steering wheel,delay wipers, great tunes with subs, auto dimming rearview mirror with compass, cb radio, 4.0 HO, AW-4 trans, HP D44 front axle, 9" Ford rear axle and a 242 case(if I can't afford a doubler). It's kind of like my version of a buggy...

The plan is an XJ tank mounted in the bed under a custom cover. The battery will also be bed mounted and there will be a tool/spare parts storage box also. The spare tire will finish filling the bed.

I have a short bed. The frame goes about 4" past the shackle mount, but the end of the box is 8" past the end of the shackle mount. I would make the box and frame end at the same place.

Rustys has them for big $. Try this link they have them at a good price but you need to know what angle you need. http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=367&cat=158&page=1

So do you think with lengthened arms, 3" flex joints and rubber mounts I will get the amount of flex I'm hoping for or close to it.

Thats a Mopar 360....

Is that pic with the poly bushings? :roll: I sure hope it is. :D I have been thinking more about building a 3-link with a single passenger side arm and a trackbar. I'm just not sure if I can get enough flex with Ford radius arms to fully extend and compress my 11" travel shocks. I know I will with a 3-link.

As for the cab I have a plan in mind and I'm not cutting my frame rails at the cab. The rails will protude into the cab and I will blend the floor in around them. As for bobbing the rear, the frame will be cut off right behind the shackle mounts and the box will end right there. No spring mounts will need to moved. I will be bobbing the box about 8".