TNT

Here's a box I'm going build. I have all the steel needed to build it. Top view. The grey area will be an XJ fuel tank, some storage, and a remote mounted battery. It will also have short rockrails as shown in the pictures that would tie into the frame and rollcage. It will also have storage for tools, jacks, an air tank and spare parts. A spare tire carrier will be incorperated also. Image Not Found Side view. Image Not Found It would also have a rollcage with an exo over the roof with A piller tubes that run into the top of/behind the front fenders, tie into the front suspension and the front bumper.

I was going to use a drop one. I'll be checking to see if a true high steer will clear. I've cutting my fenders for max suspension up-travel and I think there might be some clearance issues with the oil pan. A true high steer is also harder on the balljoints. My lift will be 6" maximum.

I stopped by a local junk yard and picked up a '77 HP D44 front and a '79 9" rear axle. The price was right I couldn't pass it up. The front axle has 1/2" tubes , the welded on mounts and discs brakes. It also came with the radius arms and mounts. :chillin: I thinking about building a 3 link with a track bar, but I could always just stick with radius arms. I could also build it with the stock set-up but the mounts raised about 2.5". What do you think??? For steering I'll be going OTK and using a Grand Waggy pitman arm. The rear axle is missing the drums, brakes and hardware. :roll: So whats a good disk swap? I think there is a bolt on Explorer type available but I can't find it. My plan is 5.13 gears, lockers and at some point alloy axles. :brows: My max tire size will be QR78-15 Swampers. 8) I just didn't want the weight and poor ride from the 1 ton axles. :nuts: They also have a F-250 HP D44 for $125.00. :D I have a '86 kingpin HP D60 held for me at a great prices so if anyone is interested let me know. :cheers:

I stopped by a local junk yard and picked up a '77 HP D44 front and a '79 9" rear axle. The price was right I couldn't pass it up. The front axle has 1/2" tubes , the welded on mounts and discs brakes. It also came with the radius arms and mounts. I thinking about building a 3 link with a track bar, but I could always just stick with radius arms. I could also build it with the stock set-up but the mounts raised about 2.5". What do you think??? For steering I'll be going OTK and using a Grand Waggy pitman arm. The rear axle is missing the drums, brakes and hardware. :roll: So whats a good disk swap? I think there is a bolt on Explorer type available but I can't find it. My plan is 5.13 gears, lockers and at some point alloy axles. :brows: My max tire size will be QR78-15 Swampers. :chillin: I just didn't want the weight and poor ride from the 1 ton axles. :nuts: I have a '86 kingpin HP D60 held for me at a great prices so if anyone is interested let me know. :cheers:

If you don't want to get that crazy, here is how my XJ was set-up. Here some pictures of the front flares on my '95 XJ. I raised them to the bodyline, filled the gap and the reformed the flare so it still extends all the way to the bottom of the fender. Image Not Found

Here is my MJ I'm in the process of reworking for maximum tire clearance and uptravel. The flare is raised past the bodyline. Just clamped on right now, they will be bolted on after work today. Side view Image Not Found Fit at front body line Image Not Found Fit at rear bodyline and filled gap Image Not Found Tire coverage with 33x10.50-15 on 15x7 rims with 4" of backspacing Image Not Found Another view showing the 11" of clearance over the 33" tire with 6" of lift Image Not Found Outside in the dark... Image Not Found I still need to rework the front part of the inner fender, remove the rust, paint the fender, mount the flare and make a inner fender liner.

That makes sense now

I don't know about the other guys, but if I had half a clue how to do what you did, I would. I don't know how to add pieces to make it seamless. I don't really know how to work a heat gun to get the stock stuff to bend without deforming. Got a thread somewhere that shows it? Looks awesome, man. I plan on doing a complete write-up that will show how to raise them and form them above the bodyline like this and one that shows how to do it the way I had them raised to the bodyline before this. The piece I fill the gap with is cut out of a stock flare I had laying around. It's not that hard to do, just time consuming.

Thanks This weekend works for me anytime after 4pm on Saturday or anytime Sunday. BTW I got some of the parts off but after breaking 4 T-50 torx bits on a seat belt I had to call it a day....

Here's a pic I took after I backed it out of the garage. Image Not Found

Here's an update. The flare is raised 6" over stock. I formed, reshaped, cut and fit a different flare today. It's just clamped on for right now. I also cut the fender some more. Here are some pics. Side view Image Not Found Fit at front body line Image Not Found Fit at rear bodyline and filled gap Image Not Found Tire coverage with 33x10.50-15 on 15x7 rims with 4" of backspacing Image Not Found Another view showing the 11" of clearance over the 33" tire with 6" of lift Image Not Found I still need to rework the front part of the inner fender, remove the rust, paint the fender, mount the flare and make a inner fender liner

Besides that no cellphones were supposed to be turned on according to the rules. :roll: I will say this day was very hard on my neck thou. I have a 4 level fusion done on my neck and I'm hurting pretty bad right now. And thats after the pain pills I took when I got home... I'm almost thinking about not doing the Petty ride along unless they have collars or a hans device the use. I know I need to wear a complete fire suit and was told if they know about my neck I can't go. If I do go my neck won't be mentioned. At least I go to see my back doctor in the morning and get X-rays of my neck for my 2 year check-up. He also wants to find out how my other degenerated discs are doing.

My cellphone takes pictures, but I must have broke it when I dropped it. Now the screen inside doesn't work so I can't navagate. I'm getting a new one later this week. I got a bussiness card from Russ who was taking pictures and said I can get copies. I'll send him an e-mail in a a couple of days to get them. He flew out from New York because this was the track he wanted to run. It's a wild 4 mile road course that is rated as one of the best. I'm still pumped.

They make a 8.8 C-clip eliminater that also makes the axle wider.

I went alone and without a camera.... :roll: When I get the DVD I'll have to find somewhere to host it. :D

I just got back a little while ago. Man it was fawkin awesome The first module was autocross in the SRT-8 Jeep. I ran a 30.74 second time which was the fastest time. It was clean with no cones down and was .48 seconds faster then the instuctor. 8) Next up was advanced driving skills in a SRT-10 Viper on a larger autocross course. We had to practice controlling understeer and oversteer. I was drifting the Viper on my first lap of the six laps we got. I just kept spending more time sideways every lamp and only blew threw one corner and almost spun it. The hotlaps with the instructor driving was wild. :brows: After that we drag raced on a 1/8 mile track with the SRT-6 Crossfire and the SRT-8 Jeep, Charger, Magnum and the 300M. They had 2 of each model to race against each other. It was sweet. I red lighted once, won six races and lose three. After that we got about 10 more runs racing the different models against each other. The Jeep was the fastest one. :D Then it was track time. We got to use the Crossfire, Charger, Magnum and the 300M. I got to do 16 laps and hit 140 on the back straight. Too bad the pace car wouldn't go faster... I couldn't fit in the Crossfire with a helmet on thou... :roll: It was pretty wild. Nothing compared to the hot laps with the pro drivers. I got 2 rides in the Viper with a top speed of about 165mph. The turns were just insane. ;) I got one hot lap in the Jeep and all I can say is WOW. :chillin: At the closing meeting we review the day, found out we will be getting a DVD of the day including in car and forward facing cameras and gauge readings for the track laps. To bad I only got one car with the cameras in it. Then the awards were given out. For running the fastest autocross time I won a Richard Petty ride along in a Nascar That was a surpise that is wayyy cool!!! It was a fawking blast!!! 8)

Sunday is going to be a fun day for me. I'm going to Road America for the SRT experence put on by the Ricard Petty driving school. I get to go beat on all the Mopar SRT models. 8) I'm looking forward to beating on the Viper, Charger and the Grand Cherokee. All of them will be a blast. :brows: Drive them like I stole them is my plan. I'm pumped and can't wait...

The easiest way is to use a spare set of bolts. First remove the axle nut and the hub bolts. Then tread the spare bolts in half way and drive the bearing out by alternating hitting each bolt with a hammer. Once the bolts bottom out unscrew the bolts slightly and all it will take is a couple of light blows to get it the rest of the way out. If you chose to use a slide hammer make sure you leave the outer shaft nut tight until the hub/unit bearing is out. If you don't you'll risk pulling the outer hub out of the bearing and damaging it. I don't recommend using a chisel as the spindle and/or hub and heat shield are easily damaged.

Give me a vise, a hammer and a small punch. Then 19 year old u-joints are about a a ten minute job per joint max. :brows: As for your O2 sensor the bung is probably junk and a new one will need to be welded in. I re-tapped mine, but it would come loose over time. I bought a Borla header and downpipe so the problem was solved. I was able to remove my stripped senser by welding a large nut onto it and prying outward on it under the nut while loosening the sensor by turning the large nut. I used a 24mm wrench to pry under the nut and the nut used a 1 1/4" wrench if I remember right. It worked very well.

So what went down hill after that? I plan on doing mine without removing them.

TJ flares are too short. Once I replace the flare, the front will go down to the bumper. The rear will go down to the weld in rock rails and the gap caused by raising the flare will be filled. These are the wider '95-'96 front XJ flares. I have as much room as TJ flares but prefer the look of properly raised stock flares. When the inner fender work is done I should have tons of room for maximum up travel with bigger tires. I beleive in having as much up travel as possible.

I recut my fender and raised my left front flare as high as possibile tonight. I need to cut/form a junkyard flare so it goes down to the bumper and fits tight to the body. A small piece will fill the gap caused by raising the flare. I will also be folding the rest of the seam, cutting and reforming the front inner fender for maximum tire clearance. A inner fender liner is in the works too. The weld in rockrails will fill the bottom 2" below the flare. Here's a pic with 33" tires and 6" of lift Image Not Found The flare is 4" higher then stock. The opening behind the tire is 4" larger at the bottom of the fender and 4" larger in the front at top of the bumper hieght.

This is true but in the rain on the street I would smoke almost anything up to 70mph and then they would have to catch back up after that. Besides that AWD rocks in turns.

Wanting and needing are 2 different things. I want to be able to holeshot an EVO. 8) And waste him in the 1/4.... I have almost enough parts that will be left over, I'd just need another MJ... Maybe next year. :brows:

Yeah, the wiring is bad somewhere. I may have to go with a new hot wire. Can I splice in a new hot wire to the orange wire off the blower, will that still enable me to use the fan switch? Or should I install the splice at the resister under the pass foot well? Just run a new wire from the fuse box(cut the original wire coming out of the box and splice in there), run it up near the switch and splice into the power feed wire going to the switch.