BRC 88MJ

Do you have experience with the part? If so, how well did it fit? Also, what was the shipping cost? I couldn't find mention of it on their website.

Since I'm filling holes, do you think the process would be different for me?

OK, so it sounds like the resin is the way I need to go. Next question, do I have build it up in layers in the areas that I hogged out or can I just build the area back up with a single thick coat? Should I think about adding fiberglass strands for reinforcement or would that be redundant?

Would have don't it that if I could. However, no MIG welder and all of the screws broke flush with the surface of the header panel.

I am in the process of repairing the front header panel on the ol' MJ. I had the problem with the screws holding the headlight/turn signal trim pieces corroded and the heads snapped off. I'm sure many have had the same issue. Instead of buying a new one I decided to try to rhab the old one. So far I've removed the broken screws by drilling/dremeling the material around the screws away. The plan is to rebuild the removed plastic or fiberglass material and redrill the trim hols My question is what do I use to build the removed areas back up? Would fiberglass resin be OK or is there a plastic epoxy that would work better? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Guys, Thanks for the info and suggestions. I 'm not sure about the OD of the fuel line. I was going to grab my calipers but I was in the garage and they were in the house.....and I was feeling lazy. BTW, annealing actually softens the metal. Typical heat treatments (at lease for bolts) will overharden the base material and then anneal back to the desired hardness. I think the anneal is easier to control and hit the target hardness than just a straight hardening. Wow, I have to stop learning at work.....

Wildman, Thanks for the reply. I did find out that the tubing that runs on the rear axle for the rear brakes is 3/16" and figured that the front lines would also be the 3/16". Even the single rear-feed chassis line on an XJ would be 3/16" though? I tried to flare a scrap piece of fuel line tubing and couldn't even come close. Does anyone know if it's stainless? Also, what is the OD for that stuff? I hate nickle and dime stuff....

I'm in the middle of rebuilding my MJ and have a couple of questions: 1) What diameter (OD or ID, please specify) are the brake lines? I'm looking for the chassis line going to the rear of the truck, the rear axle lines, and the front lines. Just as a reference, I'm looking to buy a roll of bulk tubing and re-running lines similar to an XJ to eliminate the load sensing valve at the rear. 2) Does anyone know where I can get replacement fuel lines (other than a junk yard)? I have swapped an HO motor from an XJ into my non-HO MJ and the fuel lines don't match up. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. BC

Would the distributor from a 4.2L Wrangler work for you instead?

The Puegot and AW-4 crossmembers are the same part number. I'll check the mounting holes in the crossmember to make sure the mount is in the right spot. Thanks for the info. I'll take a look tonight.

I think I understand what you mean. I'll take a look at it tomorrow. I was thinking about building an offset plate. I'd be interested in seeing what you put together when you get the pics. The rubber mount from the AW-4 never came off the trans so it's orientation is the same as it was in the XJ it came from. I also never had the Puegot in the truck. There was no driveline when I got it. I do think it bolts right up but it's not going to mount in the exact same holes. The only thing I can think of on the alignment is that the driveline might be cocked towards the driver side frame rail, screwing up the crossmember alignment.

I am swapping an I6/AW-4/NP231 into my MJ that was originally equipped with a Puegot and 2WD. Can anyone who has an auto and 4WD tell me where on the framerail their crossmember bolts up? I have everything in position but the crossmember does not apper to line up with more than one hole or stud. Thanks for any help.

Just an FYI, the computer is only required on the 4L60E model of the transmission. The 700-R4 (later renamed to the 4L60) only require a 12V electrical input for correct operation. In the EFI vehicles, the computer turns that 12V on and off based on the vehicle speed and (I think) throttle position. Painless Performance and TCI both make a retrofit kit that will let you use the 700-R4 in a non-EFI application. You can also go the ghetto way and run 12V from a switch and control the lock-up yourself.....

Try to going to a place like Fastenal or another fastener distributor and look for whatever Grade 8 (SAE) or Class 10.9 bolt (metric) that fits. You'll have brand new fasteners and they shouldn't be anywhere near $14 a pop. Brent

Just a thought on the ticking noise, is it a leaky exhaust gasket?