TNT

GAYYYYYYYYYYYYY How ghey is it.... I can run 5" of lift and fit 35" boggers and still be legal no problem... I guess that must be ghey to run a set-up like that..... not legally you can't, mj's didnt come with 31's. up here you can find t100's with 2' lift kits, (no joke i saw one two weeks ago at napa) 4" in radius, equals 8" in diameter.... so I can run a 35" tire legally. :brows:

Actually, adding another main leaf won't make it that much stiffer at all. What makes an AAL stiff is when the AAL has a higher spring rate than the rest of the pack. If you use an MJ main as an AAL, it has the same spring rate and will be rather soft. I have done it, and noticed a 1"-2" lift in the rear with no adverse effects to the ride quality. Others on this site have done this and were happy with the results. Loss of flex wasn't an issue. The spring rate won't change that much, I'm sure the metric ton rate is definately higher.

GAYYYYYYYYYYYYY How ghey is it.... I can run 5" of lift and fit 35" boggers and still be legal no problem... I guess that must be ghey to run a set-up like that.....

In WI 3" high hood scoop is the max legal height. About 2.5" would be perfect for me. As for lift 5" is maximum. The tires can have a raduis that is 4" larger then stock. Max bumper height is 30".

That's a bummer. I don't know the price of the cable, I have a buddy that uses them and they are sweet.

On my '94 XJ I installed a set of Moog problem solver control arm bushings and they fixed my problem. They are a stiffer version of the standard bushings. With 33" tires and a 3" of lift the stock bushings are pushed beyond their limits. The stiffer bushings really help control axle movement.

Rearching them won't change the stiffness. IMO I would cut the eyes off of the main leaf from a set of MJ 4x4 springs and add that leaf below your main leaf. You could also use a main leaf from another truck if it has 2.5" wide springs about the same free arch and is long enough to span from eye to eye.

This would be a good motor swap. It was done a long time ago. I must have missed it. Turbo engines rock :brows: Stolen from NAXJA for those who might miss it. :roll: Here's the link http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=243740319#post243740319 Here's the first post.

I have enough 2"x6" .120 wall steel right now to build the frame with. Would that be more appropriate?

I will definately keep this in mind. Thanks

This will work best for the bed I have planned.

I'm amazed you didn't see it you had that truck for a few months or that D44 rear diff you told me about.... :D I will do my best to save the window as a wall hanger. ;)

Not bad 10 min.. :cheers: I just think it has to go back on the rear wiindow of the extended cab when it is finished. It will be a memorial to the parts jeep.

Doing it the way I have planned will be strong enough for anthing I'll ever do with it. That is a sweet build thread.

My stepbrother asked me what the sticker on the center top part of the rear window on my cab said. Later inthe day he figured it out. I will be putting on on my MJ's sliding rear window since the cab is the one I'm cutting the back off of to extend my cab. :cheers: So lets see who can figure out the sticker first... JeepcoMJ and Genovast aren't included, they already know since I called them and they know... Image Not Found

Most frames are designed to flex. My plan is to make the frame, cage and body as rigid as possable. Flexing should be done with the suspension not the frame. Fabbing up a new frame will be easier and stronger then plating the stock frame rails. It will also be more rigid then any frame I could drop the body onto. It will fit way better also. Putting it on to a different frame is just too redneck for me. :brows:

Rectangular is easier to build mounts for suspension, crossmembers and such. Building with rectangular tubing is easy for me to do and will be very strong. I still have to buy a bender or find someone in my area that has one and is willing to help when it become rollcage time.

I was planning on plating my frame on my 89 MJ from the front back. The big plan is to extend my cab so it uses 2dr XJ doors which will make it 9" longer. After cutting the frame to get my parts cab I got a real look at the "frame" that is stock. I wasn't impressed at all. Since I will be building a custom bed I started to look at the rest of the "frame". I came to the conclusion that it will be less work in the long run to build a real frame and weld the cab/front end to the new frame. It would still be a unibody per say... I'm working on the design of the frame right now. So far it looks like I might use 2"x5" .188" wall rectangular tube for the frame rails. The frame after the cab will be narrower and become the bottom support for the bed. Part of the plan is raising the front spring and shock mounts. This will allow for more uptravel without spring bind. The rear will still use leaf springs but will have long travel shocks that extend into the bed. Everything will be tied together with a rollcage mabe out of 1.75" .120" wall tube. It will have an over the cab halo, but will have tubing on the inside of the cab that will tie into it. It's still in the planning stages so your helpful input is welcome.

If you plan on going offroad the SWB would be my choice. :D It has better departure angle higher, the break over angle is better and the turning radius is tighter. :brows: When it comes to chosing that is all up to you. :cheers:

I think they were either 42RH's or 46 RH's. One is based on a TF904 the other is based on a TF727. I have seen both behind the 5.2 in Dakota's. I believe 96 was the year they change to the RE version of those transmisions. The RH is hydraulic controlled for shifting and the RE is eletronicly controlled.

x2 I have had the same problem a few times. Usually after wheeling it would start to happen. I replaced the stock bolt with a 10.9 hardness flange head bolt that used a normal socket, cranked it tight and never had it happen again.

I'm running 33x10.5's on 15x7 with 4" of backspacing with 3" of lift and cut fenders and flares on my rusty DD. Here's a pic Image Not Found Here are some old pics of my '95 flexed with 33x10.5 with 3.5" of lift with 11" travel shocks, and cut / raised flares. I could steer from lock to lock when flexed without any rubbing. Rear tire stuffed Front tire stuffed Filled gap on raised front flares It still has a fender inner liners 37" tires will fit the rear if you cut the fenders like this. Thats the same 33" tires shown above. Image Not Found

You just need to make sure it is the one that has engine braking. The one I'm talking about also is a fully manual valve body. I have one laying out in the garage I can build.

I've only owned one. A 1989 2.5 turbo that had 280HP and 335# of torque at the front tires. It was a blast to blow off 5.0 'stangs with 3 buddys in the van heckling the slow 'stang. That minivan ran a 12.72 best in the 1/4 mile on street tires. It was a great sleeper.

I like my auto for wheeling. I've been thinking about swapping out my AW-4 for a non-lock up TF-999. I like to have a reverse shift pattern valve body and the accurate hard shifts that I can build it to have. The crank mounted CPS is pretty expensive thou. For those of you who don't know a TF999 is a HD wide ratio version of the TF904.