TNT

I wonder if this one really has a SRT-4 2.4L engine in it. You can get 450hp and 425# of torque easy. The torque band is wild, over 375# of torque at 2300rpm and a 6500rpm redline. In a 2wd MJ I bet a sane person could get 30mpg on the highway and 22-24 in town. I would get about 12 mph in town and about 22 on the highway... ButI know in not sane. :brows:

Tornadoes make you hide like a little girl and risk wiping out all of your possesions and your entire family... This is true Tim, and I don't mind I was hiding in the basement with all the girls; wifey, two daughters, even the girl cat. :eek: Damn thing passed about a mile north of us and broke a lot of houses. Wild night............ Mother nature can be a B1TCH!!!! Glad you are fine, was anyone hurt by the tornado? I have seen 3 tornados, One was when I was driving and we went different directions, I hit about 140mph in my 'Cuda that day. We had one cross the road ahead of us when I was a kid in upper WI. It cut a mile wide path that was 18 miles long threw the forest. The other one just missed our cabin, we didn't have time to get in the crawl space. It crushed our Suburban with a tree, tossed the 17' bass boat with a 150hp egine about a 1/8th of a mile and blew out the windows on the cabin. It also took our outhouse, we never found it.... We did get a bigger back yard real quick too. I'll gladly get 6' of snow in one day, instead of seeing another twister...

They are probably a trailer fender from somewhere.

If you don't grab that 340 let me know. Hopefully it's a 68-71 engine with the forged crank. I would build it to about 400hp and run it on a custom fuel injection set-up that I would tune. It would be a good 7000rpm engine that will make a fulltime 4wd MJ a evo killer. :brows:

I have had the same set of Rancho RS9009's for 8 years. They have worked out very good, I have been happy with them. RS9009: open length 26.8", closed length 15.67", shock travel 11.13" Shock mounting: upper stock stud type, lower eye type no bar pin 5-way adjustable - soft valving (for use in dual shock applications) New ones are 9-way adjustable. Valving is very good for single shock use on a MJ/XJ. Settings: #1 is very soft, #3 is like stock and #5 is stiff I recomend these They can be tuned to your needs and have been great. I will be replacing these when money permits. Only because I want great shocks that are rebuildable and more fitting with my plans. My shock of choice is Bilstein 7100 14" travel short body remote reservoir shocks and I will use limiting straps to protect them. I also want to add some Bilstein Air Bump Stops.

He is plating the rear of the frame for the backhalf he is doing. The front of the frame is being done because of the flex it has just like XJ's do.... As you can read he asked about frame stiffeners and if the MJ unibody frame flexes enough to benefit from them. He also asked if anybody runs them and I was showing what other people are doing to stiffen the frame. I also replied with my plans I have for my frame. You stated The frame has issues with cracking and flexing which you admited is a problem. You use C-roks frame reinforcements and a RE brace to help solve the flexing and cracking problems. Sheet metal can only be flexed so much, the more it flexes the weaker it gets and cracks are the result of the flexing. If you were just back halfing a MJ the following pictures show about all the frame would be needed if the unibody flex wasn't an issue. Btw, he also plans on reinforcing from the front of the frame to the end of the cab because of the lack of chassis stiffness the stock frame has.

If there are any areas moisture can get behind the the plates some 3M seam sealer and the proper finish being applied will stop this problem. The weldable precoat is ok but sealing it properly is the cure.

In my book revenge and payback are 2 different things.:roll: :roll: If it didn't happen to me it's payback for what they did to somebody else. If it involves me its for money either owed, stolen or spent to correct what they did to my personal property or my familys. Payback costs them money. Revenge what happens to you harm me or someone in my family... Revenge causes pain... Regardless, I hope his trailer is located along with whoever stole it.

I'm not the only one who feels this way... Here is Jeff frame work so far. It will be back halfed with a 1/4 elliptic leaf spring 4-link suspension.

Snow is a blast I love driving in it. It can snow 2' more tomorrow and I would be happy. :D Tornadoes make you hide like a little girl and risk wiping out all of your possesions and your entire family...

I never said to beef the LCA mounts, just that the stiffiners would run to them or the back of the cab. You have addressed the main areas where cracks happen thou... If wheeled regularly for 2 years without any reinforcements cracks in the steering box area can happen, so can cracks by the track bar. The stiffers help keep the body straight and help eliminate the cracks that can happen by the pillars on mainly on XJ's but have happened on MJ's also and in stop cracks in quite a few more areas on a XJ.

IMO If you run 33" tires or more and wheel moderately hard they are a good investment. Unless you don't plan on keeping your MJ for a year or two. The front frame is the weakest area. The steering box area should be braced on both sides with 3/16" steel. I would plate the other frame rail across from the box the same way. A beefy bumper or front crossmember should tie the two sides together. Next would be a brace from the passenger frame rail to the trackbar mount. After that plating the outside of the frame from the steering box braces to the LCA mounts or to the back of the cab with 1/8" steel plate. Then plate the under side of the frame back to the LCA mounts or to the rear spring mounts, 1/8" to 3/16" will work. Doing the inside of the frame in the engine compartment with 12 gauge steel would be next. Weld in rocker replacements that tie onto the frame will tighten it up and save the body. A real crossmember and a belly skid will finish it up for the most part. I plan on going nuts plating my MJ's frame and will be tieing it all together with a full roll cage from the front bumper to the rear bumper. I will also be tieing into the suspension mounts and rear shocks. It will make a great base for my front mid-arm 3 link. You may think I'm crazy for doing all this but I will be confident it wil last and be ready for any other mods I add later. i disagree. ive never heard of anybody having troubles with the frames while running 33s. i never ONCE considered it. even if you don't, i think your truck will last longer than a year or 2 You must not have a good memory then because you know Pat. He just fixed some cracks in his frame and doesn't wheel much at all and has smaller tires then 33" ones... Cracks are common around the steering box, the track bar mount and other high stress area's. All of the above work isn't needed but some is. The main areas that need to be addressed is the steering box, front bumper anf track bar brace. I'm not saying it will self distruct but it will develop stress zones that will crack. BTW if you ever plan on getting some air or hammering hard at speed it is needed. If you don't believe me check into JeepSpeed. BTW, my MJ will be around for many years. The 4.0 HO engine it will get has 3032 miles on it. The AW-4 has 90k on it and has been well serviced/resealed. The NP242 is getting rebuilt, will have a wide chain,a stronger planetary gear set, the HD differential the 32 spline output shaft and a 241 SYE. The axles will be replaced with stronger ones that will be rebuilt,regeared, have alloy shafts and be trussed. I will be looking for a daily driver this summer so my MJ will mainly be a toy. I plan on keeping it for at least 10 years, but most likely untill I die... My '94 XJ I bought in early 1998 and my '95 was bought in mid 1999. I don't sell my rides very often... But you don't know me well enough to know that either...

If it make it over here I might enjoy getting it back for him on my own. :headpop: They would probably rather have the cops catch them...:D Payback's is a B1TCH and don't ever fawk with an ex-mopar tech. I have a few tricks up my sleeve. ;) Whenever possible payback is best served cold after a some time has past and when done in multiple stages.... :brows:

IMO If you run 33" tires or more and wheel moderately hard they are a good investment. Unless you don't plan on keeping your MJ for a year or two. The front frame is the weakest area. The steering box area should be braced on both sides with 3/16" steel. I would plate the other frame rail across from the box the same way. A beefy bumper or front crossmember should tie the two sides together. Next would be a brace from the passenger frame rail to the trackbar mount. After that plating the outside of the frame from the steering box braces to the LCA mounts or to the back of the cab with 1/8" steel plate. Then plate the under side of the frame back to the LCA mounts or to the rear spring mounts, 1/8" to 3/16" will work. Doing the inside of the frame in the engine compartment with 12 gauge steel would be next. Weld in rocker replacements that tie onto the frame will tighten it up and save the body. A real crossmember and a belly skid will finish it up for the most part. I plan on going nuts plating my MJ's frame and will be tieing it all together with a full roll cage from the front bumper to the rear bumper. I will also be tieing into the suspension mounts and rear shocks. It will make a great base for my front mid-arm 3 link. You may think I'm crazy for doing all this but I will be confident it wil last and be ready for any other mods I add later.

We have at least 14"of snow. I had snow drifts that were 4' high in my driveway. My wife snow blower this morning and there was 10"-3' in my driveways. Thank god for my trusty old 1974 8hp Ariens snowblower, it's unstoppable. 8) The ride home was fun, the main highway was snow cover and had drifts up to 18" high or so. On Hwy 20 they plowed a cross road and didn't lift the blade when the crossed the hwy. I hit it at about 35mph and got air. Right after the jump there was a F-250 pulled over to the side. As I drove by I saw that his entire plow came off and was wedged under the front of his truck. :eek: There was a jack knifed semi almost blocking the entire road about 5 miles later and I saw about 10 cars/suv's in the ditch in the first 8 miles I drove. About 1/2 way home I started taking the back roads. :D They were unplowed. I drove that in lowrange. :brows: There was 12" to 4' deep snow I had to back up and take a couple of runs at two snow drifts. I got to the end of that road I turned around and drove back to the other end and back again. :chillin: It was like I was running snow covered trails. I had to stop and push the snow off of my hood a couple of times. ;) I had a Libby try to follow me the 2nd time, but they had to turn around. :roll: Well now that the driveway is clear and I ate dinner it's time to go out driving. I know a bunch of roads that won't be plowed yet. :cheers:

You could redrill the hubs... My problem is HP D44 or HP D60?????? Which one should I use. The 60 is a huge pig but I just might use it....

My MJ is parked waiting to come in the shop in a couple weeks once my '95 XJ is stripped of the parts for the MJ. I'm out playing in my '94 4.0 aw-4 NP242 cased XJ with a rear tracklock. It has 3" of lift and runs 33x10.50-15 BFG AT KO's. It's so rusty I just don't care. The engine has low miles and runs great. I drive it hard and enjoy it.

Extend the cab, use a shortbox bed and cut the rear frame rails. That would be sweet. On my short box I'm extending my cab to use 2dr XJ doors and building a custom bed to finish it off. The frame will be bobed at the rear shackles.

But do you play with your Comanche? 4wd drifts rock and using lowrange just adds to the fun. :brows:

I have a tendency to get a little crazy at times. This means the frame will be plated. It will be much stronger and will be up to the task. I'm also hanging heaver axles and they will be trussed to be good to go, I just don't want to tweak the frame if I get some air or hit some rough sections of trail at speed. I might 4 link the rear next winter for about 20" of travel.

Well I got my evening fix in. I decided to play in lowrange. 8) I spent about 20mins doing some great drifts. :chillin: I completed a 360 at about 25 mph on the first attempt!!! Did a few donuts and stopped at the gas station where I spun it around so it slid backwards into the parking space perfectly. :brows: You guys can't tell me I'm the only one who plays in the snow... Someone else has to enjoy snow driving too... ;) The drive to work in the AM should be fun too, but not as much as I had tonight :D :cheers:

Was he the one who won the Pike Peaks race without brakes and then died is a crash a week later?

I have done them a few times and find them easy. I heat the bushing shell on the pass side and pop the center out. the sleeve is simple after that. The drivers side I heated the outside edges on both sides of the bushing and popped it out. I drive them back in with a 3/4 drive socket that fits the shell. The passenger side I put a socket in between the mounts and clamp it in. This keeps the bracket from collapsing. My last set took two hours to replace all of the UCA and LCA bushings including lifting it, supporting it, disassembly, reassembly, so it was back on the ground, torqued and ready to drive.

I will be plating my frame on my MJ. It's not that much stronger then a XJ. I just cut the front frame off of the cab on my MJ parts cab and was not impressed...

Check out this rally car in the snow, he is flippin haulin. I would love to get a chance to go do this. :brows: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xXJJy41S7Vw&feature=related