MrShoeBoy

Mine where attached with sticky tape, a couple of razor blades, some pressure, and a small pry from a screw driver and my letters popped off. Your results may vary. AARON

DO NOT GET A CRANE CAM!!! They suck! I have had two cams go bad in my motor. The lobes went flat the first time and Crane tried to argue with me that I didnt have it set up right...I was in Daytona at the time and dropped the head off at their factory for them to check out. They had to eat their words about improper setup because the head work was spot on, so I got a new cam. The distributer gear went bad in the second cam they gave me and it wasnt even a year later! I was down in Daytona at the time yet again and they tried to argue with me that it was my falt but after showing them the parts, they gave me another new cam. That cam is currently on a shelf collecting dust. I refuse to run it in any Jeep motor I own. After all that crap, I called up Hesco and talked to Bennie about my motor, what I am doing with it, what I want out of it, and got a valvetrain package from them. Cost twice what the Crane cost me, but after going through 2 of them, the price difference didnt matter. The Hesco cam is still rocking it out and theres a huge difference in power with the Hesco cam and both cams where advertized for the same RPM range/power I wanted. You get what you pay for! As for computer reflash, drop in the cam and run with the stocker. The computer can account for a little bigger cam. If you are going balls out, then you need a stand alone ECU. AARON

Get a bottle of gas. The whole wind getting in the way is a load of crap. Well sometimes it does blow the gas away but its really got to be blowing. If your getting porous welds from the gas being blown away, just thow up something to block the wind around the area you are welding. A cardboard cereal box goes along way. AARON

Depending on tire size, your better off cutting down a Ford 9" for the rear. The Ford 8.8 won't be happy with the stroker and high speed stuff. Ask me how I know :D AARON

Get a 220v welder if possible. It will make welding 3/16 and 1/4" metal so much easier with less prep time. The smaller 110v welders bring the suck execpt if you are doing sheet metal. The 220v MIGs can do thin gauge sheet metal if you put the proper size wire in them. I have used both Miller, Lincoln, Hobart, and Esab welders and don't really think one is better than another for home use. I really liked the Esab for full out professional shop fab work followed by the miller and then the Lincoln. There was nothing wrong with the Hobart, I just liked the controls better on the other machines. In my own garage, I have an old school Miller 175 and it does Jeep fab work just fine. AARON

Does it not come with a joint? What side are the threads in the bar? Check into that, then look at what heim will thread into it. AARON

I need some rear fenders. Anybody have ideas on where to get some similar to this: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachme ... 1185907094 I tubed out the rear of mine and need to cover the tires. I sent a message to Longfield on Pirate but havnt gotten a response and its been a while. Thanks AARON

My MJ had terrable rust in the bedsides as well as the floor was pretty beaten and trashed so I thought this was the best answer.... :D AARON

Why is it that the older blocks are better? When I built my stroker several years back I was under the impression that you wanted a block from a 96 or newer because there was added material to help with NVH (noise viberation, harshness) and also the 96+ blocks came with a main cap girdle. http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/selection.html AARON

I have built several 4.0L motors and stroked variations over the years as well as driven a couple into the ground and not a single one had oiling issues. If anything the last stroker motor I had ran high oil pressure but that was partially due to oil weight and the high volume pump. Do a leak down test to check the cylinders and if they are all with in 10% of each other, do a tune up and keep driving it. Then when it finally dies replace it with a rebuilt 4.0L and start again.

Its good practice to check them after every other trip for safety and minimize breakage regardless if its trail only or DD. Before and after a long weekend offroad or a hard day I check all the bolts on my rig cause I have had several bolts work themselvs loose on the suspension even though they where torqued to proper spec. Off the top of my head I think 9/16 U bolts for a Ford 8.8 are torqued to 80ftlbs. Thats what I used to do at work and havnt had one come back thats failed due to improper torque. AARON

If you have a vacume disconnect front end check that the vacume lines didnt come off or you might have popped something in the front end as well. If your 231 is trashed, I have a 91 NP 231 from my XJ that has been rebuilt with all new bearings, seals, and chain with a JB Conversions HD SYE with 20k miles on it. I got a Stak 3 speed so I'm looking to sell this case. PM me if interested. AARON

Thanks guys. I forgot about Rockauto. Does that include the cable as well as the sheeth? I kinda had to cut that as well. Thanks again, AARON

The E brake cable that runs inside the cab in my MJ is shot and I had to cut it appart to remove it. Anybody got a good source for getting a new one? I figured I would ask here since I didnt see anything in doing a quick search and I don't like going to the dealership since they always charge crazy high prices. Anybody make the XJ style e brake assembly work? Saw a post on that but didnt see any details. Thanks, AARON

The jig came from DD Machine. They have the bar and pucks, then you buy the bar and what ever pucks you need. The shop I work at got the bar and a few basic pucks, but once we had the bar, it was just easier to have our local machine shop make the other pucks we needed since it was cheaper and faster to get them made instead of ordering new ones. The housing and third are from an older Ford F-150. Its a big bearing 3rd so it should be able to hold the power from the stroker and keep the 35s spinning. I wish I had the cash for a True Hi9 but thats not going to happen any time soon. The reason I didnt go full float is because I would have had to buy new brakes which would have cost me somewhere around $500 for the full float spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers, and also the parking brake. The housing ends I got are for a set 20 bearing but also have the same backing plate pattern as the Ford 8.8. That means I can reuse the brakes from my busted 8.8 and save a pile of cash. If I have problems with breakage, I can always throw in a set of 35 spline shafts and call it done. I have a friend running 35 spline alloys and a spool in the same housing I used and he has had no issues with the housing or shafts in 3 years with the axle holding up to a LS1, 39" red label krawlers, and a lead foot. AARON