TNT

So when are you getting my other MJ? :brows:

Make them 34x11.5's or some Q78's and you'll be good. The 15.5" wide tires are great but you do need more horsepower in mud sand or about any surface to turn them. They weigh more and have quite a bit more rolling ressistance. They will also be harder on axles. Would I run them. Sure but I would choose other sizes first or keep them for offroad use only.

10.5's take less power to rotate and have less rolling resistance. They accelerate faster on most surfaces and this is why most JeepSpeed rigs chose the 10.5's over 12.5's. They take less horsepower to roll and go faster with less power.

You guys and your skinny tires... It's a night and day difference between going with the wider 12.5's. You gain 4" of stance and in my opinion I'd rather have a wider MORE STABLE stance than feel like I have my shoulders shrugged and I'm going to tip/blow over driving down the road. To each their own I guess.... PS. Wade I'll let you try Rebecca's 33x12.5's next time were together. Drive down the road and than tell me you like your 10.5's better... ;) Ask Pat about how well 33x10.5-15 BFG AT's handle... I had him out in my XJ on Monday and drove almost as hard as I normally do on backroads. ;) I run 26psi in the front and 22psi in the back and the rims are 15x7's with 4" of backspacing. I also have a 242 and run in fulltime always. The XJ has 3" of lift. I regularly do 4 wheel dry pavement drifts in 90 degree turns at speeds that are hard to believe. I do 25mph turns at 45-55mph almost daily even fasted on warm pavement. It's handing is totally predictable. I love hammering the skinny pedal on the exits so it drifts even further. I have out run many cars on these backroads. :brows: 10.50's are great tires and don't handle worse. I have had 12.50's BFG AT's also and they had more tire roll in hard corners on 15x8 rims and sucked in the rain or snow when compared to the 10.50's. :D I had the 33x9.50's before and they sucked when compared to the wider AT's. The only way 12.50's might handle as well as the 10.50 on dry pavement is if they are mounted on 10" rims and run with higher pressures. They would still suck in rain or snow. Offroad is a slighty different story but each size does somethings better then the others. A bonus is 10.50's get better MPG's and are faster then 12.50's are. :D I also recommend the 33x10.50's to any XJ/MJ owner.

The one in the picture doesn't even look ported... If it is mine flowed better... About 15 minutes of time max will make the $9.00 perform just as well as a ported one.. In my '95 4.0 HO I run a Robertshaw thermostat with the outlet I ported. I warms up quickly and hold a nice stable temperture. It's way better then my '94 4.0 HO XJ with a non-ported outlet with the stock thermostat

I would do a 4.0 HO swap from a 91-95 XJ. If you find a good parts rig it will have everything you need and more. The non-discconrct front axle if a bonus, unless you are like me and using a 9"/ HP D44 combo. . I could go on and on about things you could do... I like this one but as a 4x4. Image Not Found

Agree Tim. When Castrol dropped the ball, I tried synthetic Mobil 1. But because of the immediate rear seal leak, I drained the crap and went back old school to diesel 10/30 Chevron Delo; still has the additives w/o the leaks. Oh, and my rear seal doesn't leak anymore. :D Only place I will use synthetics now and forever is in the diff. I have had good results with Amsoil ATF in the transfercase. My diffs only see 75w-140 Mopar synthetic gear lube(I have 17 quarts here...). I'm going to try some Mobil 1 0W-40 oil I have in my engine since it only has 3000 miles on it. I can get dextron, mercon or even type F fluid from the International dealer I work for. The AW-4 trans will never see synthetics. I'm going with some high temp racing brake fluid I have some big $ Mopar power steering fluid that works great hot or cold so once I add the cooler it should last and stand up to some abuse. I only use green coolant with distilled water.

I'll have to agree with MrShoeBoy regarding Crane cams. Not from personal experience, but by all the horror stories I've seen on the stroker forum. I am also running a Hesco cam (RV-O-B) and it's been running strong for three years now. Several guys I know are running the Unichip 2720011 with good reported results. I've been able to able to tune my stroker well (w/o a chip) using an adjustable MAP voltage input, adjustable FP regulator, and a wideband A/F meter. I have not seen substantial dyno-proven performance gains over my engine to justify the cost of a chip. Just my 4-cents (inflation). :D Some of the cam failure are happening because of the additives the government removed out of our engine oils a couple years ago. I will either use old school deisel oil and synthetic oils. They removed an additive that keeps non-roller cams from wearing prematurely.

The stock computer can adjust for all of those mods. A scanner can tell you you longterm readings. use an adjustable regulator to keep the long term close to 0%. A DTEC is a piggyback computer that can adust your map reading from idle to redline. When used with the proper fuel presures and adjustments you can gain power or you can use it to increase fuel economy. It uses a Gameboy Advance SP as the controller. It is great on turbo cars(I loved mine) and it works on non-turbo cars also. Here is their description. TurboXS DTEC Fuel Computer If you have modified your vehicle, then the factory engine management system may not be delivering the correct amount of fuel. The DTEC-FC can be used to restore the correct amount of fuel to ensure optimum performance. The DTEC-FC works by altering the main load signal to the factory ECU. Increasing or decreasing this signal by an amount determined by the DTEC-FC’s programmable map can manipulate the factory ECU into delivering the optimum amount of fuel for the engine. The DTEC-FC uses additional inputs such as engine speed and throttle position/MAP to determine the requirements of the engine. The DTEC-FC incorporates four user programmable points of throttle position/MAP to scale the amount of fuel perfectly through 18 programmable RPM ranges. When you mechanically increase the fuel flow on your setup by either larger injectors/pump or a fuel return line that increases the fuel pressure, you’ll need a way to dial back that fuel electronically. The DTEC intercepts the factory MAP/MAF signal and fools the vehicle’s PCM into thinking you’re consuming less boost/air flow into the engine. This provides the vehicle with proper air fuel ratios along with preventing the PCM from retarding timing or hitting �fuel cut� due to maxing out the factory MAP/MAF sensors. The DTEC-FC gives you the ability to save four different fuel maps for different boost pressure and fuel type settings. Drive everyday on your pump gas map, then head to the track and switch to your race gas map after you fill up with the good gas. The DTEC fuel computer not only has the ability to fine tune your air fuel setting, but also gives you real time vehicle sensor gauges such as TPS/MAP (load), RPM, Knock Count, Injector Duty Cycle, EGT (with optional EGT sensor), and Wideband Air Fuel (with optional Tuner box). The DTEC will also datalog all of these sensors for fine tuning. Included with the DTEC fuel computer is a remote mounted KnockLite that doubles as a programmable shift light as well. The KnockLite is completely programmable and adjustable to view and understand severe knock and light knock with the different colored LED flashes. You can also program your shift points with the KnockLite to have your own built in shift light in case you don’t know how to read a tachometer.

You can just cut the crips off and replace the hose. Make sure you use hose is for trans fluid. Use fuel injection type clamps so they don't cut into the rubber. As long as the tubes are good there is no reason to replace the whole line. The crimps are done because it is faster in production. If a quick disconnect fails Napa should have them.

Is the chip replaceable? The Renix is not replaceable. I know the ZJ could be replaced with a Jet chip, so the Chrysler chip in the 91 and 92 MJ might be replaceable -- if anybody makes on for it. The newer Chrysler style one can be reflashed but hardy anybody does custom programs. Just get a DTEC with the built in wideband O2 sensor, the EGT sensor and you can piggyback the computer to fine tune it, if you really need to. The Chrysler computers can add 25% more or less fuel with the long term adaptive memory and 25% more or less with short term memory so they can adjust the fuel output by 50%. You don't want to max out the long term memory, you need it for temperture changes and such. The short term memory starts at 0% everytime you drive and adjusts as soon as you go in to closed loop. If it has to add more fuel consistantly the long term memory adjusts to get the short term memory back to as close to 0% as possible. An adjustable fuel pressure regulator can add fuel to get the long term back close to 0% after your mods. The DTEC can adjust the map curve to fine tune the fuel trim and it also datalogs your engine so you can record whats going on review it later and adjust as needed. I believe it has 3 different programable settings.

just park between the two most expensive cars on the lot.

It has been sold and he is building another. The tires are cut 44" Boggers

A few braces would be enough to keep me from worrying too much. If there was a few bikini clad women hanging on them I wouldn't have noticed. :chillin: :cheers:

Dan Dibbles Buggy Here's the good ones :D These videos aren't wrecked with music. His engine is all the music I need. Here a link to all of his video gallery and all of his picture albums. http://www.fototime.com/inv/5CE0058267CBCBF Check out the pictures in the albums :chillin: The ones with Alicia are sweet. :brows:

It just sucks living it the salt belt. Seeing your pic was like putting salt on a open wound. Maybe in about 5-8 years I'll be able to move south. I will be doing my best to find a rust free MJ and a 2dr XJ, build them and only use them in the summer until then(I will drive south to buy them). I won't own anything newer then a '95 model year unless it's a Viper. My wife will hate me but whats new.... My wife can drive whatever she wants and she can take it in for any major repairs.

White for sure. The original paint code. A black antenna mast would look good. I found one in my misc parts... You should be able to find one at the JY. Some clear sidemarkers up front would look great too. When you do bumpers keep them black, same with rockrails. If you add any lights use ones with black housings. I think the white you have with the Chief decals, black wheels and black accents is one of my favorite MJ color combos. White with black accents is hot. :D Your going to have a sweet looking MJ.

I actually decided I wanted bolt-on for this application. I am guessing that if someone hits you broadside, or you hit hard enough on a trail to bend one of these so far that you can't open your door, you have bigger problems..... :roll: :brows: A. A fullsize 4x4 pickup at about 10mph might be enough to cause it, who knows?? Make sure you test them out and let us know how good thet work. ;) If I was hurt badly I would help to get me out as easily as possible. It is like having bumpers on all 4 sides. :brows: Any way you look at it they will help protect you. :D You never know when a runaway shopping cart might attack.... :rotfl2: :cheers:

I use 3M super weatherstrip adhesive to hold the gasket to the t-stat outlet and if I would use anything on the other side it would be some grey Mopar RTV. Because of the rough texture on the t-stat outlet I use a very thin coat of the 3M all the way around. If the block cleans up great I won't even seal tht side. The 3M super weatherstrip adhesive also does a good job of holding the thermostat in place when used in a couple spots. I port the T-stat housing on my 4.0 Jeeps. I also use Robertshaw style t-stats for their accurate open and closing control and the fact they increase the amount of flow allowed when fully open. As an ex mopar tech I use the 3M super weatherstrip adhesive(yellow gorilla snot) to hold gaskets in place quite often. It was also used by 90% of the other techs I've worked with. In most cases a few spots of it will hold a gasket in place. It also work good for making sure the gasket stay on the side you want it to if you need to remove that part later.

Thats a sharp looking MJ. It will look even better with your summer tires on it. So how do you like the 12.50" wide tires in the snow? I switched to 33x10.50 BFK AT KO's and really like the narrower tire in the snow and ice.

From the looks of the rockers and the rest of it, you killed a perfectly rebuildable MJ...... :headpop:

I like how they look. :chillin: If I was going to buy bolt on ones those would be my choice. :D I'm going with welded in rocker replacements I'm building myself. :brows: One thing concerns me, if someone hits you broadside or you hit them real hard on the trail could they bend up enough to block the door? :popcorn: It's kind of like the drip rail. They get bent down in rollovers and fold down enough to block the door from opening. JeepSpeed rigs fold the rail up and weld it to the roof to avoid being trapped inside. :nuts:

This is about as close as you can get. :brows: The center is just bolted in between two bucket seats. I think the whole seat cost $50.00, but it might have been less. :D Image Not Found

buckets I'm going to try to find some out of an SRT-4(Viper seats) but I have some Dakota buckets for now. The Dakota seat has a center section mounted in between the buckets with a folding armrest/console. I suppose that would be like having both.... I'm just using the buckets thou...

This is why I always make rock rails that stick out past the bodyline. You can use them as pivot points on the trail and laugh when some opens there door slamming it into 3/16" thick steel rail. :D