TNT

Hell ya That sounds fawkin great. No need for a radio in it. :brows: That engine is music to my ears, sweet, sweet music. :D Makes me want to put a 400+hp V-8 in my MJ. :chillin:

What up with the :roll: ... You don't like snow??? Yes 10"-14" of snow with 6" more possible in some areas I keep looking out the window just waiting until the time is right. :chillin: I think about 9:00PM will be time to go driving. :D We should have 4" by then. That's enough to play. :brows: I have to be at work at 7:00AM so I'll be taking the backroads about half way there. I'll actually enjoy driving to work for once. ;) I love driving in snow, I've been told I'm crazy :nuts: but I do have fun :rotfl2:

I had a KLR600 years ago that I had all built up and it was a blast. I miss that bike. :cry: My offer of storage still stands... :D :cheers:

Thats a nice ride. You can store it by me anytime just remember to leave me the keys. :D I'd even be a nice guy and give you my bench seat when you drop it off. :brows:

It runs on either on the eletric motor or the engine. Sneak up on the electic motor and switch to the engine after your sneek attack begins.

This would be the way to go. You will gain about 5.5"-6" because of the larger tubes on the 8.25. Buy 2 RE flex joints, 4 RE bushings w/ sleeves, 2 threaded inserts, 2 weld on studs and some tube. Thats all that's needed for the arms. Weld up some frame mounts and design a removable cross member between them. Weld the mounts to the frame. Buy some 5.5"-6" springs from whoever you like. Deaver springs would my 1st choice, Skyjacker, BDS or RE would be good choices also. It depends on the spring rate you want. I would recommend Bilstein shocks, 12" travel ones all the way around. You may need to modify the front shock mounts which is a good idea anyway. Locate your rear mounts as needed. There are a few small items to buy. Some hockey pucks for front bumpstop extensions, longer brake lines, swaybar disconnects and some steel to extend your rear bumpstops. You should do a SYE. But a YJ slip yoke and replacing your standard 2.5" 8.25" yoke for the 3" version should also work if the angles are set correctly. If you don't have an adjustable trackbar buy the HD RE one that comes with the mount. Buying the mounting brace that runs to the other frame rail is a good idea also. When it's all said and done you will be money ahead and have a better suspension set-up then most ones you can buy.

Come up by me. We had 40 degrees last Monday and on Tuesday morning it was about 39 degrees. When the cold front came threw we had tornados and by that evening it was -8 degrees with -35 to -40 degree wind chill. We got about 6" of snow on Friday and 4" of snow last night, It's 37 degrees and raining today and they say we should get 5" to 9" of snow in the next couple of days... If you don't like the weather in Wisconsin wait a day or two and it will change...

Thats a nice looking rig you have. I like the color. So what are its vital stats and future plans?

Most likely the ignition switch is the problem. Either it is failing or it stuck and didn't return fully after starting it.

I'm still a teenager... I'm just stuck in this trashed 41 year old body. :cheers: I don't drive beyond my abilities like teens do thou... :brows: I also pick safe places to play without indangering anyone else.

To bad you are so far away. I'd fab up some in a day or so. I would need you rig to build them.

Cool!!! :cheers: I want as much snow as possible. :D I love driving around for hours when there is 4" or more snow on the roads. I hate when the weatherman says 3"-5" is coming... Ask any woman thats not enough!!! :brows: I've been having a blast this winter, I've managed 1/4 mile long slides a few times. :driving: If it isn't sideways, it isn't fun. ;) I even learned I can do front wheel digs when I'm in fulltime by pulling the E-brake. :chillin: Four wheel drifts are great. I drive in the snow like I'm riding a quad. I go back into the unfinished subdivisions and have went 4 blocks in a drift, which included four 90 degree turns. 8) BTW I have had drivers training courses a few times and many years of experence. It is amazing how well my 94 XJ with 33x10.50-15 BFG AT KO's with a rear trashlock handles in the snow. The tires rock!!!! :thumbsup: Knock on wood, I haven't spun out, left the road or had it do anything I didn't make it do. I've had a blast crawling snow piles when they are rock hard and blasting threw 4' deep fresh snow piles. :wavey: BTW this is my daily driver with a 4.0 AW-4 NP242 combo with 3" of lift and 33x10.50's. This is the clean side. The rust on the other side is out of hand... Image Not Found :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

both wires to the motors and the actuators are power and ground. :D You switch it from one way to the other to get it to work. The window motor runs forward one way and when the wires are reversed it goes the other way. The door locks work the same way.

My guess is maybe 1 or 2 HP at best. Once you've built and stroked the rest of you engine then a spacer might be worth it, but it would need to be about 70mm.

Not quite... it can help by changing the way the air flows and increasing the volume of air after the TB. A '99 intake is a better choice

4 hole ones increase the bottom end and single hole ones improve the top end. Wooden ones do a great job of keeping the carb cool when combined with a heat shield. I never owned an f-body. I had mainly old Mopars like a '71 340 4 speed 'Cuda, a '68 440 sixpack 4 speed Roadrunner, a couple of 340 Darts, a Little Red Express, a '71 340 Demon and a '69 310hp 350 4 speed & 71 455 automatic Cutlass. I also just had a '05 SRT-4 ACR that had 300hp and 390# of torque at the wheels. It was a fun toy too.

If you have had the dash out once, its easier the second time. When Pat and I tore the dash out of my '95 it took under an hour. I could do it again by myself in about 45 mins. Using a cordless drill to remove screws and small bolts saves a bunch of time. A 1/4 air ratchet helps too. You really only need to disconnect the passenger side and some of the drivers side. The just swing the dash onto the passenger seat leaving it pivot on the drivers side. Just lower the column pull the console and go to town on the dash. The heater box can be removed after swinging the dash out of the way. Discharge the AC disconnect the hoses and unbolt the box. Use the cordless drill to disassemble the heater/ac box and swap ot the core. I'm sure I could do it in 3-4 hours. With practice 2-3 hours is about right. I can replace an evaporator in a ZJ in 2 hours and LH Chrysler cars in an hour and a half. I just swing the dash on those vehicles also. I'm an ex-mopar tech so believe me it can be done. If you do it with hand tools and pull the dash it's about a 6 hour job tops.

Read about this one. It has a Parallel System Hybrid Powertrain. In otherwords you have a electric motor so you can sneak up and attack. Read all the specs it would be sweet. :brows: http://www.internationaldelivers.com/assets/PDFs/FTTS_Specs.pdf

We spread the parts around as needed. JeepcoMJ will have a couple of parts XJ's in a few months to make a nice rig with. I'm stripping one to go my MJ and he is putting it back together with the other one. I just pulled wire harnesses tonight. I'm going to make some more good progress on Sunday and Monday. I'm selling the parts that aren't reused from my '89 MJ parts once they are removed and believe they already have a home... When we are done it is after all the good parts are used and saved for the next project. The shell or maybe only some just scrap steel from it is all thats left when we are done.

Well... yes and no. To just throw one on and expect tremendous HP gains. I completely agree with the others...NO. Unless your doing something to your fuel delivery system and your exhaust system. You money is better spent. As part of a complete system, Yes. That's different, then they have merritt. If your gonna have a free flowing exhaust, tubular exhaust manifold (s) open up your ports to gasket size and maybe even a cam upgrade. Definitely, followed by a larger TB. Then YES the spacer will add a bit. Even then, this kind of upgrade only really help with freeway driving speeds, I mean close to WOT acceleration. I put one on my TJ and other than the whistle didn't notice much. Later on, I upgraded to a Banks header and 2.5" magna-flo exhaust, 60mm TB and blended intake manifold. I noticed a much improved top end. Again, the differences where noticed when I tromped on it or when passing on freeway. Ultimately, you will have to decide. CW I'm going to have to side with you on this. There is a time and a place. I would swap a '99 and newer intake first. I have the Borla header a highflow cat with a 40 series Flowmaster I also run the 60mm TB. The intake and cam upgrade would work great ith the above mods.

That is why I asked why. I stated why I'm doing what my plan is. I really don't care if people like it or not I'm building it for me... The pics didn't show how well it is built and no specs other then 12" of lift was done. Details on the changes and some good pics would be great. Know I see he is saving that MJ which is cool. I just want to know more.... :brows: But by making my one post this thread came alive. :cheers:

That looks like a blast. Nice ride.

Thats because nobody is quite sure what they want to say... My ? is why?

they are sweet.

6" of snow.... Thats where 2wd is fun. About 12-18" of snow is needed to have real fun in 4wd.