TNT

IMHO the black trim needs to go, but I would also swap the white flares for black ones.

I just used a heat gun and it took about 45 minutes to do both sides on my Pioneer. :cheers:

We'll it's been a long time since I updated my post. I have stripped the 95 XJ parts doner completely. It will be rebuilt by Scorpio Automotive as a project/shop rig. I have started stripping down the MJ for the parts swap. I have collected some more parts for the build. I now have both doors. I still have a 2dr XJ of Pats to strip more parts from. Both rusty doors and all the door trim and door opening trim/moldings along with a few other parts needed for my project. I have started modifing the front inner fender wheelwells to taper the curve all the way to the core support. This will allow me more uptravel and be able to steer without any rubbing with a larger tire. My build is headed more towards a prerunner type build. Since the cab will be 9" longer I have decided to use 64" Chevy rear leaf spring which will extend the wheelbase about 8". The frame is the perfect length for the swap. My custom built bed will be slightly over 5' long. I have a place to build the full rollcage. It will have a bed cage for shock mounting, a full cab cage and it will continue to the front suspension and front bumper. It will be a combination of 1.75" and 1.5" tube. The longer leaf springs should be able to use all of the 18" travel FOA remote reservoir shocks. The rear shackle design will allow great flex and ride. FOA 2.5" 4" travel air bumps are also planned. Up front some Bilstein 12"-14" travel short body reservoir shocks with 6.5"-8" front springs are planned. Fox 2" diameter 4" travel air/hydro bumpstops is my ultimate goal. More updates and pictures to follow.

A 3.4 swap might be good option. They have good power and are efficient. It would make a good swap.

From the Darkside... I just happened to be in this post when I checked for the latest Comanchee Club posts. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=553566&highlight=7%2F8+ton+cherokee

This makes the 'Trail Rated" an oxymoron....

For the front you want to start with uncut flares, if your flares have been cut in the rear portion they may not fit right. First remove the liner, flare, headlight bezel and front bumper. Take a marker or a paint pen and mark a line straight across the front edge of the fender at the bottom of the marker light. Remove the fender brace and cut off the lower part of the fender. You have to be a little creative to cut the part under the headlight. I used a jigsaw to cut the fender just make sure you hold the fender so it doesn't bend. Now mark around the fender opening at the where the mounting surface where the just below the top of where the flare edge, about 1/8" from the edge. of the bend, taper this line off towards the lower rear edge of the fender just behind the front mounting bolt. Leave where the mounting holes for the corners of the flare, one at the middle of the rear opening about half way down. The tabs by the holes will be left on and folded out 90 degrees. Now cut out all the area in between the above described tabs, while supporting the fender. On the rear inner wheel well of the fender there is a seam that needs to be trimmed and folded outward. Cut up toward the seam and taper off your cut so it ends at the end of the double wall. Now fold the double wall seam outwards 90 degrees. Hold up the flare to see where it needs to be trimmed to fit the body tightly. You also need to trim the curve where it wraps around under the fender and heat it some so it fits the body tightly. Position the flare up to the bodyline and mark the mounting holes and drill them. I used a piece of the flare that was cut off to fill the gap caused by raising the flare. Mount it to the inner part of the flare using a push nut and a screw. Now bend the tabs out 90 degrees and put a push nut over the center tab and the fender support. Now paint and seal the fender as needed. I used ¼" bolts, nuts, and washers to mount the flare. I also put large round rubber fender washers in between the flare and the body to keep from distorting the flare. Next comes the inner liner. Cut the rear part of it so it can be screwed to the seam on the inner wheel well that was folded out. Now trim and fold the liner with a heat gun so it fits inside the flare like it did before. Use a bolt in the center support for the fender where you put the push nut. Now secure it to the tabs using some push in christmas trees like the ones that originally held the liner in. Now all that's left is to trim the front portion to match the fender and the rear portion to fit nicely. And then you are done. I used a jigsaw, dremel, drill and some basic tools.

Something more like this. ;) Raised to bodyline. Filled gap. Modified inner fender liner. Stuffed. Flexing :cheers:

You can cut and raise them to the bodyline like this. Image Not Found Or you can get wilder like this. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found I just started cutting and reshaping the front part of the inner fender. The inner fender curve extends all the way to the core support.

Keep in mind that mine is a HO engine. Fuel economy was the same to about one mpg better. As for torque I did loose a slight about under light throttle applications below 2500rpm. Overall power was definitly better. I removed the tholle body and sanded th step out of it. This eliminated any torque lost and I could also drive from 55-70mph without the AW-4 having hunting and downshifting on the cruise contrtol with 4 people and about 400# of weight. Using the Borla header , the Walker DynoMax high flow converter and the Rustys cat back with the step removed out of the throttle body really improved the power and economy. The best benefit is the improved drivability and incredible throttle response.

You have the right plan, mandrel-bent 2.25" or a do a cheap non-mandrel 2.5". I ran 2.5 mandrel-bent with a highflow cat with my Borla on my XJ and was happy with it. I didn't have a cat and it was even better. Muffler is a Flowmaster.

Well it sounds like the next time your over its time to break out the Jim Beam Yellow label Rye whisky for a shot out ot my early 1900's shot glass. :cheers:

i dO I dO :cheers: siGn tHe tiTle oF yOUr mJ oVer To Me sO yOu cAN'T JuMp oFf oF iT.

For the record.......that don't work. Tried that last week when my pump died, and only got a faceful of mud/rust for my troubles :oops: :D Jeff (although it did releive some of the stress of admitting to myself that the pump actually was dead) it works about 50/50 we get alot of dead pumps, some of them you can kick and drive in the shop, some of them you've gotta push :redX: it's alot more fun to drive the car that just got a 80 dollar wrecker bill in ;) than it is to push em Did you have someone cranking the engine when hit the tank? If not it won't work. As a tech I have done this hundreds of times I bet... flat rate 1 hour to diagnois.

The 20mg of Norcos(Vicodons), 10-20mg of Valiums and 20mg of Cyclobenzapine and the 25mg of Amitriptylene I take at night probably also helps me sleep... :nuts: At least ist the slow release kind.

Well the discs above and below my 4 level neck fusion are the issue. Thay are bulging and degenereated. This is pincing a nerve and some new bone spurs have also formed. I have be working on the problem and it is much better. As for the "have you tried marijuana for the pain." It helps I used it for 25 years but stopped a 2 years ago. It does make the pain meds and valium work much better. They can test where I work now so even my scripts are questionable... Since I was doing better my meds stayed the same. I'm going to try to improve my strength and lose some wieght to help out both my back and my heart issues. I'll have to go back in so they can do the MRI on the rest of my back. I can't do it right now because it oinches the nerve to the point the pain pills don't do anything. I've got to start cutting back on the pills as soon as I feel good enough because if I don't take them now I have withdrawls.

I'm going to start vitamin therapy, I already do B-12 a multi vitamin and 1000mg of niacian at night per the heart doctor, I all take fish oil. Thanks for the heads up on vitamin D I'll be reserching it.

I learned a long time ago to show up about 1/2 hour before closing with a cold 12 pack or more. Grab a few items quick and come get to know them. It goes a long way

95 XJ 4.0 HO complete engine trans and transfer case swap.

I'll be bed mounting a XJ gas tank in a month or so as part of my build.

Naproxen was one I was on years ago, it helped slightly for a while. I've probably tried about 30 different meds in the last 6 years...

Spellcheck would help but sometimes the meds make it hard to type what I want to say and have it make sence too....

I'm located in the Comanche triangle that surounds JeepcoMJ's place. :D Post up your electrical gremlins and I will diagnois them for you. I can probably help you figure them out even if we are on opposite sides of the country. I might even teach you something in the process. PM me if you want do that instead of starting a thread The we can make some write ups. I also have a ton of other info I can share. :brows: I would type write-ups but this post took about 10-20 minutes to type and correct.... I will try and make some soon.

Put a new speed sensor in it. :D Just pop the gear off the old one and put it on the new sensor. Common problem, both my 94 and 95 XJ's had this happen, I also so saw this problem all the time as a tech.

They had meds like morphine and such... My docter said if I could have drivin to their office I could have got strongers meds but it can wait until monday. Right now I'm not feeling too bad so I'm headed out to clean it and get some more work done.