mfpdm

What's that hook on to and where can I get one? :cheers:

That's the game room in my buddies house. Pool table which has a ping pong table cover, pinball machine, and electronic dart board. Don't have to worry about making too much noise over the garage. :brows: I'm in for the pow wow. Just keep us posted when it gets closer. :thumbsup: Maybe the MJ will be finished by then. :shake:

I've pulled two now and have yet to save the gasket. I have the window tool that you can buy but I guess mine is a cheap one because it doesn't work for crap. I used a hook blade(I think their called carpet knifes) from the inside. I saved the outside portion of the gasket the second time, but still cut the back of it that wraps around the window. I'd like to know the secret as well if someone has it. :cheers:

I've put the 96 booster in with the 96 brake pedal. The brake switch is not my biggest problem. It's the cruise control switch that I haven't seen anyone address. The 89 XJ that I got it out of has a bracket on the brake pedal for it but the 96 does not. Did the 96's use a different method for the cruise control switch? :dunno: :cheers:

That is the one and only consistent complaint I have heard about doing this change. This is why I'm a little worried about doing the swap. Besides the slamming of the door, which could lead to a possible broken glass ( I've seen it), I believe over time the added thickness will start to affect the hinges and the latch. Think about it like this. Go into your house and pick a interior door, open it up and set a piece of material about a 1/4 inch thick on the hinge side of the door jam. Now close the door. Do you hear the cracking or popping coming from the hinge side? Does the latch pull tight against the catch? When you turn the knob to open it, did it spring open? I bet if you look, the latch scratched into the catch as it popped free. I know that's a little dramatic but I think you get the idea. Now think how 20 year old truck hinges, that have been know to come off without the larger seals, will react. Just some food for thought. :cheers:

The last two MJ's I've bought were less than that. :nanner: Figured I'd post this for the next person that can't find the bolts. :cheers:

Check to make sure both the plugs on the back are in tight. Ones behind the left side and ones about in the center. You can snake your arm under there from the bottom side and find them. Speedo will still work because it's mechnically driven by a cable. :cheers:

Have you ever done something so dumb afterwards you said, "that was dumb" Point and case, Today while hacking up the parts truck, I was laying on my back, underneath the passenger side using the saws all. The blade got pinched and kicked back and as luck would have it, my small finger was mashed between the concrete and the saw handle. The saw stopped and I thought, that kind of hurt, then repositioned myself to continue. Sooo... to eliminate that from happening again, I place the butt of the handle, with my hand again on the backside, firmly on the concrete so that it couldn't buck back. You can see where this is going. I pulled the trigger and the saw commenced to smashing my little finger to death. With the natural reaction of my hand, instead of letting go, I clinched my grip tighter and the now, jackhammer continued to pulverize my finger. Finally got it to stop and jumped up and did the owey dance and look around to make sure none of my neighbors saw me. In my mind, the one thought, Damn that was dumb, rang out. All in all, I had a good day, with that exception. And yes, although bruised and sore, the finger is still functional. So here's to all those, That was Dumb, stories. :cheers:

Found my 86's behind the drivers door panel. :brows: I though if you did the vin # decoder thing it would tell trim package. Can find the link right now but you can Google it. :cheers:

Have been doing small things here and there but nothing major. Kind of been distracked with other things and giving the wallet a rest for awhile. Finished the lower end of the motor and should have the head back together soon. It's been too cold or wet to paint anything so I have quite a bit of parts that are waiting for that. Next major expense will be having the front and rear glass installed. Will try to get something pic worthy done soon. :cheers:

:bowdown: Fantastic! :bowdown: A lot of great work. I'm digging the overhead console. Had scrapped the idea for the Wild build, but now I think I'll revisit that plan. Whenever you find time, you should write up a DIY thread on it. Also nice idea with the E-brake. Eliminates a bunch of problems fabbing up the cables. Will have to add this to my long list of the "Next MJ projects". Right between the Cheromanche and Dually MJ. :popcorn:

:doh: I see that now and remember reading it earlier too. :shake: I was thinking the same thing, as I know it took a gorilla grunt to get that thing off. Thanks :cheers:

:agree: Some useful stuff to add, when you pull the defroster cover, I found a eight inch flex shaft works good. Also the drivers side has, I think 3, holding clips that you need to be patient with when pulling the trim piece out or you'll break it. Just slowly work your way across from the passenger side to the drivers side lifting at the point closes to where it's still attached. If your not taking the wiring harness off the dash, I found it easiest to leave it on the hooks at the kick panel and let it tilt towards the rear of the truck. Then you can disconnect anything still plugged in, and remove the dash with wiring harness. :cheers:

What is the torque value for the pully on the crankshaft? Source I have says 20 Ft pounds. Is that right? Seems awful low. :cheers:

It's also a redneck term, I canardly hear ya. :cheers:

Pretty much it. Was going to do the conversion myself but have other plans for the center console space. There's a little more to the conversion than just throwing it in though. You have to modify the cable coming from the handle to the MJ center bracket. The XJ one is too short and if I remember right has a different end on it which won't allow it to hook up to the MJ cable going to the axles. I collected quite a few different e-brake parts that I was going to use and still may do it to the other project I have in the future. Not tough but just wanted to let you know your options. :cheers:

It drains out both ends into the fender cavity. Here's a thread with pic's http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... f=2&t=9741 :cheers:

Sorry to pull this off topic but, hornbrod, what is that thing attached to the air filter side of the heat shield. :cheers:

Seeing how you have 2wd springs, you won't net as much in the back. My 88 prior to build was sitting at 4.5 in the rear on a SOA D35. I had roughly 3.5 in the front. After the build is done, It will have 4.5 RE coils up front which generally net a half inch or so more than advertised which will make up for the half inch to an inch the D44 SOA in the rear will give. If all works out, I should have an even 5 inch front and back. If you go full width, you'll either need wheel spacers in the front(bad IMO) or get a full width up front to match. :cheers:

Very nice. I love my floor. Easy cleanup. It's a breeze to install on new concrete too. :thumbsup: If you can swing it, when they pour your driveway, have them go all the way over to the side of the garage. That way when two cars are in the garage or in the driveway, you can pull around and slip into the side door in bad weather. Plus it's a good location for future projects. :brows: edit: Oh and it's less grass to cut. :D :cheers:

The spanner wrench is useful and the right tool, however I have pulled a dozen or more without one. Most of them just holding it with my hand and a couple needed a little assistance with a pair of needle nose pliers. You figure after 20 years, most of them are stuck in there pretty good and don't turn when you loosen the nut. Just give it a try first before you go spending money on a tool you'll have limited use for. :cheers:

YJ had leaf springs up front. You'd have to weld coil buckets, so no, thats not really a good deal. :cheers:

definitely go with an epoxy flooring. Helps out alot. :brows: Also agree with installing insulation and sheetrock on all walls and ceilings. I did this on my additional garage outside of the excisting garage, and it stays much warmer and cooler. Mine is 14x25 which makes room for a nice bench in the front and plenty of room all around for the MJ. Originally it was 14x30 and would fit two cars end to end but I gave up 5 ft for the wifes laundry room. :fool: Try to get a steel beam installed for a pneumatic chainfall. Can pull motors or lift the front or rear with ease. :thumbsup: :cheers:

Unless you have a pressure guage hooked up just don't "add another can of Freeze 12 to top it off". Over pressure can damage the AC components. Freeze 12 and 134 will not cool as well as r12 on older systems because it requires higher pressure. That is why even on some newer vehicles the ac is not as cold at idle as it is when your going down the road making higher rpms. Also, it should take less of the two than R12 because it is lighter. If you are going to have it evac'd, most shops will not do it if they know something other than R12 is in the system as it will contaminate their recovery equipment. Only reason I thought about using Freeze 12 was that a complete kit with dye, sealant, gauge, adapters and gas was about $65. I wouldn't have to change anything other than the nozzles to do it. Was going to use it on the 86 because it couldn't do any worst than it is already. 134's oil is not compatible with the r12 oil or o-rings. It will cause slug build up in the system and will eat away at the o-rings. Now the 88 will get the full conversion since the system was open during the build. New o-rings, the components have been flushed, and a new filter/dryer. I'm no expert on this by any means so someone smack me down if I'm wrong. :cheers:

I got jipped then. The 87 I'm parting out had the 2.5 w/5spd but has a 3.55 rear. Did they differ from 2wd and 4wd? :dunno: