mfpdm

Got my vote :cheers:

I agree with you Wahoo. That slogan needs the word "pleeeaassse" :oops: behind it to make it completely pathetic. However I do like their slogan, "Easy to be a truck, hard to be a Jeep". I'm trying to figure out how I can put that on the Wild build in a tasteful place with a little style. :brows: :cheers:

Hey I just notice something. In all the pics, the white one with camper shell, has the exact same one that is on mine. Can't read the print to well but it wasn't a factory option was it? Maybe a dealer option I would guess. :dunno:

Here I thought you were going to say something about the daughter. :D If you remember, in the 80's, riding in the bed was still done a lot. Oh wait, I guess you wouldn't remember that much. j/k Pat ;) :cheers:

I'm waiting on a response to an email about them. The picture has keys but the write up doesn't mention them. Plus the door keys should be oval right? Anyhow, I love that site. I do this regularly for fun, just go through each category and add to the cart the things you would like. I have ended up close to $1k a couple of times. :brows: :cheers:

:agree: I found it kind of interesting that in the field of Comanches, they tried to represent a varity of people. There's black, white, maybe hispanic, young couple, older couple, single mom, and maybe g a y couple. Not trying to imply anything, but that was pretty smart marketing for the 80's. :cheers:

Team Cherokees site. $25 for a set of door locks. Here's the link, about half way down the page. http://www.teamcherokee.com/Locks_and_Keys/index.html :cheers:

Nice work Pat. That front bumper is kickin. Does the gas tank skid eliminate the need for the straps, or is independant of the tank? :cheers:

Just live in the shop. :D

Thanks for the kind words. Well, you would have to give up your truck for about a year and a half. Thats about how long we've been working on it. :oops: I think it would be more in the lines of the Tom Hanks movie, "The Money Pit" :D Here's a couple of pics of the regulators installed. You can see with the two clips vs one it had before, that the tube end should stay above the water channel in the bottom of the door.

Not to be a fifth wheel, but I've really never been a fan of the Grands. Why not find another XJ for a DD. The same year or better could be had for that price. Plus parts are a whole lot easier to come by. Lookng at your sig you own one so you already know the ins and outs on them. Just my 2 cents. :cheers:

When I did the 97+ on the Mild build, I just used the 97+ wiring harness. I took the old harness end and tied it into the connector that would be in the 97+ XJ. Here is the link to my build. It's toward the bottom. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... 2719d4afcc If you need what wires to join, I can get that for you. Basically the older harness has fewer wires. On the newer harness, they use a wire for each light individually. Going this route, if you ever wanted to go back, it would just be unplug and plug a new one in. :cheers:

The orange and black comes from the dimmer on the light switch, ie why it's labeled dimmer. Yes it runs the dash/insturment lights but is not illumination. Illumination comes from the light switch and powers the parking lights. When you pull the switch, it applies both with power. The original radio in the 86 and 87 only needed the dimmer for the back lighting and not the LCD(If I remember correctly, the digits are black on the LCD) and should be fed by the radio. In 88 when they changed the LCD to green digits(I think) they needed to be able to dim them. That came from the clock/radio illumination relay. I guess long story short, in connecting the wires, you back fed 12volts to the illumination side of the light switch which made the parking lights come on and essential made the on off switch from the radio your new parking lights switch. In looking at the 86 and 90 wiring diagrams, only the 90 points out the clock/radio illumination relay. This provides the inputs and outputs to dim the LCDs on the clock and radio with the input from the illumination and dimmer side of the light switch. Not knowing what wires you have hooked up I can only say unhook everything and start with the basics. Power, switched power, and speakers. If the radio works then good.(I think it should without the dimmer or illumination but maybe not) Then try different combos with the last three, dimmer, illumination, and lcd dimmer doing one at a time till you find what works. Just on a side note, I put a aftermarket in my 86 and the lcd does not dim with the dash lights. If it wasn't such a pain, I'd pull it to see which wires I hook to what. Sorry so long and I hope this helps. If I'm wrong on anything, someone correct me. :thwak: :cheers:

Well actually, you don't have an illumination wire on the 86. At least according to the site that the link takes you to. If you would have hit the all jeeps, you would have seen the tab for 86. Sorry, I should have link straight to it for you. Here's what it has. Constant 12V+ Red/White Switched 12V+ Purple/Orange Ground Black Illumination n/a Dimmer Orange/Black Antenna Trigger Gray Antenna Right Front Front Speakers 5 1/4" Doors Left Front (+) Green Left Front (-) Black/White Right Front (+) White Right Front (-) Black Rear Speakers 4" x 6" Side Panels Left Rear (+) Green/White Left Rear (-) Brown/White Right Rear (+) White/Black Right Rear (-) Brown Maybe that will help. If you post up a pic with what you have wired, that may help indentify the problem. :cheers:

They will probably not let you take a camera in, but if they do, take some pics and post them up.

Try this link. It should help you out. It's a good source for a lot of vehicles. http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/ste ... /1150.html :cheers:

Power regulators for the windows will run about $150 a piece new, $100 new aftermarket, and $50 a piece for replacement cables(snakes). So here's an alternative. Finding a good pair of snakes from a XJ at the junk yard. $6 :thumbsup: 96 is the last year of our style window regulators, so try to get them from that year. Yes you could just replace the whole regulator but coming from the junk yard, you'll not no until you get home, if they work. Also, it does not matter if it is a 2dr or 4dr and on the 4dr it doesn't matter if it is front or rear. I choose the rears from a 4dr because they should have the least amount of use over the years. Reason for my replacement is because of the common rusted snakes due to water in the door. This will cause the window to operate slowly and not go all the way down. Now this replacement of the snakes is assuming that you have a good power motor. First you have to remove the window regulator from the door. I won't go into removing all the interior trim and what not. Once you have it out, you can quickly find out if your problem is a rusted snake by pulling the plastic hose off the regulator. There is a little tab that helps hold it on. Use a pair of pliers and gentle push in down, and the hose will come off easier. Metal tab after hose was removed. You can see the bump from the tab. To remove the old snake, you'll have to open up the crimped end. I used a set of needle nose pliers. I then cut the snake flush with the bottom side of the motor. This is not manditory, however with the rusted condition on mine, I didn't want to run it through the motor. Now just plug the window regulator back in and run the switch in the down position to get the snake out. In my case, the truck is not wired right now, so I just took two wires and attach it to both wires and provided 12 volts DC. **12 volts hook to one wire and ground to the other runs the motor. Swapping the wires will change direction of the motor** here's the regulator with the snake removed. Once the old one is out, take time to clean the 20 years of crud out of the track. I did this using minimal water and Purple Power cleaner. Be careful not to get the motor too wet. Before After Now the next step is not nessecary if your plastic tubes are good, however mine were cracked and clogged and I think what I have done may help the life of the snake. I used a piece of 3/8 air hose (had it for another project, paid $10 at Harbor freight so I guess you could say I use about 50 cents worth of it) to replace the plastic hose. It is a little larger diameter on the inside which I think should allow better drainage of any water that should get in there. Cut to length. Old on the left. I cut mine a little longer just in case. Bend the tab back up on the bottom side of the motor. Then slide it on. Now your ready to put the snake back in. Feed it into the track until its butt up against the motor, then apply power to the motor again like before to get it to feed through. I ran it a couple of times just to make sure the new hose would work. It ran super smooth and fast. I parked the motor with the end towards the bottom so when you put it back in the door you can re-attach the glass. Re-crimp the end. I used these to replace the smaller clamps to hold the hose to the bottom of the door. $2 at the auto parts store. Here's the completed project. I had started a thread in tech about the regulators and if there was a lubricant you can put on them. Well believe it or not, it's not really needed if you have good snakes. That red felt like material provides the "slickness" that is needed to slide through the track and hose. Here's a close up of the snake in the track. You can see the nice red felt in there. The old ones had very little left. Few reminders: This is for power window regulators. The same process in sorts should work on manual, however the snakes for power and manual are not interchangeable. Carefull working with the power. Don't want to short anything or shock yourself. Be careful not to disstort the track when cleaning and handling. So roughly $10 and about an hour or more, you should have window regulators that will operate smoother than before and run the window all the way up and down. :cheers:

First off, welcome to the Club. :cheers: Yes. Anytime you can get a $400 MJ, jump on it. You can get your money back if it doesn't pan out just on parts and yes they are compatable with each other. 33's have been said to be the limit on the 30 with mild wheeling. Hardcore wheeling, and you'll be pushing your luck. 44 can handle the 33's and 35's with not to much trouble. If you do it, you'll cut out the $600-700 in labor. Will depend on your area. Around here it would cost me $1500-2000 to have a shop do it. Good thing about the 4.0 is a lot of them in the junk yards to pick from. Not too difficult. A mild wrencher and a weekend could do it. Have been several thread in tech on it. That one I don't know, but someone will chime in. :cheers:

:D Exactly what I thought when I saw the title. :D Congrats as well. :clapping: :cheers:

This is an awesome pic. Very Nice Rig.

Took care of the door checks today. Use a metal lumber tie to make backing plates for the hinge side. Finished plates. Newer style door checks from a 99 XJ. Packed them with white grease. Pulled the connecting bracket off of the rear doors of a 4dr XJ. Figured they would have the least amount of use. You can see the hole is still round. Backing plate in place. And the bracket back on with the door check attached. Will tackle the window regulators next. Pulled the "snakes" from the same 99 XJ rear doors($6 vs $50 new). They are the exact same as the fronts. Again I figure they would be in the best shape due to lack of use. Hopefully will finish messing with the doors by the weekend so I can go on to finish the front suspension. :roll:

How true. Just go and try to get the swaybar bushings. They'll give you about 6 options from 23mm to 29mm. :roll: That's not even written in stone. Through my search, I found there was a certain ABS, I think Bendix, supposively does not have the larger ujoints. I guess it boils down to what ever Jeep had at hand when putting them together. :brows:

Wrong! j/k :D I spent about an hour trying to find the tech site that has the info about the non disco 242 setup with no luck. I did run across a couple of different forum threads but I wanted something a little more substantial. However like with everything else jeep does, there is always exceptions to the rule. I did see something about it depended on trim packages and tow packages prior to 92. Who knows. :roll: Oh, and mine was from a 89 and not an 87. I'll fix that. :cheers:

So if you have AC, should this be plugged into something? I have AC and it's just laying there as well.

Easy way to figure it out is to just grab one out of a XJ with a 242 tcase. They all had non-disco axles with the bigger joints. At least up till 96. Don't know about 97+. Pulled mine off a 89. Far as the grands the axle fits but not sure which would have the bigger ujoints. I would assume the V8's. :cheers: