mfpdm

Thanks for all the kind words. :cheers: I may have to look into this. I still have to do both bumpers. I like 3M products. I'm no fan of Duplicolor. Their spray nozzle just blows. It's an aftermarket piece. Not sure who made it but I see them on Ebay from time to time. Quick update, Got the bumpstops installed. Did a write up and put it in the DIY section. Click Here to see it Took the opportunity to replace the old torqs bolt with newer hardware on the control arms. Old Newer Have also been working on finishing up all the wiring harnesses. Just laid this one in place. Will finish them up and install all the clips to hold them in place hopefully tomorrow. :cheers:

It's a hole right above the door wire pass through. Kind of hard to see with all the crap in the way. And if I remember right, the drivers side has 3 wires. Also you can fish it through with just the switch, it's just a little tricky. :D :cheers:

This is a pretty straight forward install but there are a few tricks that the instructions don't touch on. This is for Rubicon Express 2in bumpstops on the front axle but should work for others. Kit basically has 4 parts. The 2 bumpstops and 2 self threading bolts. First you need to jack up your Jeep, remove the tires and put it up on jackstands so you can allow the axle to droop all the way down. I recommend to also unbolt the shocks and swaybar links to get that little bit extra droop so you can remove your springs. Once your springs are out you will be drilling a hole into the spring pad. The RE kit was a 5/16 but use what ever your kit calls for. Now take the self threading bolt and start threading it through. I'd recommend using your biggest ratchet to make this easier and also backing it out a couple of times to clear the metal shavings. Make sure you are straight. You can use the bumpstop to help keep it aligned but I found it hard to tell what your doing. Just take your time. Once you have it threaded, remove the bolt and you should see about 2 or 3 threads cut into the hole. Your now ready to put things back together. Take the bumpstop and put it inside the spring. Hold it while you work the spring back into place. Put the bolt in and work your ratchet onto the bolt. It's a little tricky and you will probably have to put the ratchet in first without the socket attached. Now tighten the bolt but make sure you do not over torque it. With only 2 to 3 threads, it will strip out easily. Re-attach anything that you unbolted, put your tires back on, and take it off the jackstands. Your done. :clapping: If you do happen to strip out the hole, you can either get a bigger self threading bolt or use a bolt with a nut on the bottom side(ask me how I know :doh: ). :cheers:

Interesting article. Talk about Karma. Dodge did in the truck line at Jeep. I thought the 4dr JK was a minivan. :D :cheers:

Welcome to the wonderful world of Jeeps. :D The motor mount bolt is 5 3/4 in. If yours is longer than that, then it probably was replaced or Jeep did what they normally do. Use what they had on hand. On the 4cyl, I had to remove the altenator to get it out. Thought once out, I'd just put it in reversed, no the oil filter was in the way. The bolt is a 5/8 in Hex on the filter neck. :cheers:

DeLorean :drool: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oV0ThTK0 ... re=related :popcorn:

From what I understand, all trim is chrome, and they just paint it. The trim that was originally on the 88, was pealing bad and you could see the chrome underneath. I started off with trim from a 96 XJ in better than average condition. Then, two different paints and six coats later, I came up with what you see. Washed them with purple power first, then scuffed them up with 240 grit, two coats of Rust-Oleum Professional satin black, didn't like the way they turned out, sanded them again, two coats of Duplicolor Trim paint, looked good until the humidity changed and fogged the finish, sanded them down again, two more coats of Duplicolor trim paint and finally had a finish I could live with. And people wonder why I can't get anything done. :shake: :cheers:

That's how it starts, little chrome hook here, chrome mirrors there, then boom your a chrome addict. :cheers:

It was $100. Little more than I wanted to pay, but I'm hoping to double my money at the very least. If not, I have the option to return it for instore credit within 30 days. :cheers:

I always forget about them. They are pretty cheap and almost overnight to a lot of locations. I thought though they had a 70lb maximum. I'll have to check again. :cheers:

Yep, the @ss clown was the engineer that designed it. :yes: You have to remove the oil filter neck to pull it out. If your pulling the engine, it's just as easy to unbolt the mount from the frame. :cheers:

Was going to try the Craigslist thing first. I'd hate to have to ship this thing. It's about 130lbs. And I don't like sharing my profits with ebay and paypal. :D :cheers:

Hey, Welcome back. :cheers: Your last one was sweet so I know this one will rock.

Well was trying to hold off until I had a significant update instead of nickle and diming yall to death, but at the rate I'm going, it will never get updated. Here's about twenty cents worth. Finished repairing the window regulators. Did a write up and put it in the DIY section. Back in the doors Finally finished painting the door window trim and installed the door glass and mirrors. Like the folding feature of the 97+ mirrors. Pick up some new bushings for the sway bar and installed them. Here's a sneak peak of the header panel. Still have some work on it. Got my bumpstops for the front. Off comes the axle again. :doh: Still shooting to have this on the road by Xmas. :nuts: :cheers:

Was out at the JY yesterday and couldn't find jack for the MJ, so I browsed around the full size truck/suv section and came across some really nice utility trucks/vans. It started raining so I jumped up into a walkin utility truck and found this, I removed it while it was raining and brought it home. I figured if it didn't work, I could use the tank for an OBA system someday. Wired it up and turned it on. It works. :brows: I really don't have a need for a compressor dryer, and the pump is rated to low for heavy air tools. Should run an impact wrench at least. The dry air would be good for spray painting I guess. But I have two compressors already and could better use the cash for this than the unit. So, what would be a good price to ask for this? Looked around and found a used 4cyl version for $725. The one I have is called a Nitrogen Bottle Replacement Module (NBRM) and is used in the telecommunication field from what I've read. Not looking to get rich but would like to get my money plus some back on it. Has anyone ever worked with one of these? Could use some technical help on it's operation. :cheers:

And sometimes you can fly down it.

Sorry about your bad luck but it seems that the black cloud may have a silver linning. That's one big dealership. We've got one here that has went to the huge concept. It has a movie theater, resturant, and beauty salon to enjoy while you wait on your car. Best of luck. :cheers:

Sorry about your bad luck but it seems that the black cloud may have a silver linning. That's one big dealership. We've got one here that has went to the huge concept. It has a movie theater, resturant, and beauty salon to enjoy while you wait on your car. Best of luck. :cheers:

Yep, just goes to show what you can screw up with lots of money. Those things had serious low in torque to pull aircraft which it used a flat bar to do it with. Now he has a whole lot of worthless custom tow rig setup that won't tow crap. :nuts:

Hey Pete, how much HP gain do you get with that free flow exhaust. :rotf: I've seen less rust on 20 year old warships. j/k Pete :cheers:

That Jeep drove through the JC Whitney catalog towing a crap magnet. j/k I heard that somewhere else and was wondering when I could use it. I guess we all did some strange thing when we were young. :chillin:

Oh yeah. Can fill up after hitting the pick n pull.

I always think it's really hard to say what a fair price would be from here. Your talking to a group that will want to pay as low as possible for the diamond in the rough. It's like asking a crack addict how much he wants to pay for a fix. :drool: From what I hear, the best way to figure it's worth is to take all that you have put into it without the purchase price, take about 30% of that and add it to book. Example: $1000 in new parts, 30% of that would be $300, add book of $1500, total would be $1800. Now those are just numbers that were easy for me, but you get the idea. Plus the percentage my vary on location and quality of parts. Don't hold this as law but I believe this is what I've read before and like Jeep options, may have exceptions to the rules. Just my $.02 And on a side note. I'd trade you a tan console for that black one. :brows: Or is it just painted. :cheers:

I have a feeling we're not in Kansas anymore. Nice Job Pete. I'm sure in time we'll all get use to it. Change is always hard. :cheers: *edit- You can send PM's to multiple users at the same time.

Shoot, MJ with a D44 for $700. Buy it, part it, and use the money you make to re-gear the D44. I mean you might find someone to re-gear your current axle for about $700 (not around here) but for the same price you can have a whole truck. :brows: Just my $.02. :cheers: