mfpdm

Well, when I was starting to pull it, a guy walked up and was really wanting it. So I told him he could have it and walked away. He went to get tools and never came back. So much for being nice. I'd be real surprise if it is still there after today. They don't hang around long down here with all the XJers that go there. Anyhow, the PnP usually has a 1/2 off about once a quarter on some holiday weekend. They don't go out of their way to advertise them either. They have been slow on rotating as of late due to the economy and people hanging on to their cars instead of scrapping them. :cheers:

Well, when I was starting to pull it, a guy walked up and was really wanting it. So I told him he could have it and walked away. He went to get tools and never came back. So much for being nice. I'd be real surprise if it is still there after today. They don't hang around long down here with all the XJers that go there. Anyhow, the PnP usually has a 1/2 off about once a quarter on some holiday weekend. They don't go out of their way to advertise them either. They have been slow on rotating as of late due to the economy and people hanging on to their cars instead of scrapping them. :cheers:

I've got the poulan wild thing. It's been a great saw. Has never let me down and after awhile you find the tricks of keeping the chain tight. I still have to tighten it but not near as much. Here's lowes add. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=p ... lpage=none

I've got the poulan wild thing. It's been a great saw. Has never let me down and after awhile you find the tricks of keeping the chain tight. I still have to tighten it but not near as much. Here's lowes add. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=p ... lpage=none

Well, actually, I thought because of the offset to one side and the ring on the other, that they balanced out. Learn something new every day. :brows: :cheers:

Well, actually, I thought because of the offset to one side and the ring on the other, that they balanced out. Learn something new every day. :brows: :cheers:

I'm not sure. :dunno: I know the whole axle is $150-160 drum to drum. If it was halfoff day, I would of grabbed it. :D And for a moment, pretend I don't know anything, and tell me which side is the short side. :dunce: :cheers:

Figured I'd put this here instead of the classifieds. There's a 87 XJ at the pick n pull in VA Beach with a D44 rear with 3.54 gears open carrier. Was going to pull it but I've got too much stuff already in the garage. It won't hang out there long so you might want to jump on it quick. :cheers:

Thanks :cheers: Far as color, it's a Ford color. Dark shadow gray metallic. It's a hint darker than the chryco gray.

Ok, so looking at the different opinions on loctite, and reading the fsm which doesn't really say, does anyone have the 4.0 shop overhaul manual that they could look at to see what it has to say about loctite. I've read a few other forums that some say yes and some say no. What's the real story. :dunno:

Yep it's the volume. Here's the link to wally world with specs. $80 http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product. ... id=4744710

Best $10 JY radio I've bought. :D Son says it works ok. Has a lot of functionality for the money. I've read on the web some people have had problems with it, but none here (knock on wood). I had the remote and didn't know it. Pick it up out of a parking lot one day, sat around the house till I threw it away. One week later I found the radio in the JY. :shake: :cheers:

The bearings are crimp into the locks. Uppers and lowers are like this. The surface is smooth though. In the pic the rear is on the left. All the points above the numbers are pointing right. Or am I looking at the wrong thing here? Far as the uneven wear, I believe that is just uneven application of the assemble lube. It was garage kept the whole time. I have all the reciepts from NAPA from when it was rebuilt including machine work and parts. So...Plans are to pull the crank, clean the bearings, replace the front and rear seals(I doubt I could re-use the old "new" ones, and re-assemble with new assemble lube. Will not pull the cam and will not pull the pistons. The cylinder walls show no signs of anything that would lead me to believe the rings need replaced. Any thoughts or suggestions on the plan are welcome. I did notice that all the bolts have locktight on them which I thought bolts that are torqued shouldn't have, or am I misstaken. :cheers:

Use the factory bracket on the aftermarket radio. It may take a couple of tries to get it right but will look a lot better, you won't have to hack the bezel and you'll be able to take it off without removing the radio. :cheers:

:agree: I kind of get hard headed and lazy sometimes. I was just hoping to slap the sucker in but that's not going to happen. I'm stretching the length of my abilities and was a little scared to pull this thing apart. But since I have, I'm going to go ahead and break it all down, clean it up and re-assemble. Kind of have to now that I see this. Yep, that's what assemble lube looks like after it sets for 10+ years. It explains why the crank is so hard to turn. Had thought about just cleaning the cap side but I'm sure the bottom side looks just like it. Crank looks fine though. I hate that I have to buy all new seals and gaskets knowing that these were never used, but I guess it's better than having problems later. :cheers:

IT TURNS :yes: :clapping: :jump: :banana: Thanks for all the help. :thumbsup: I started loosening main bearing caps one at a time and trying to turn it after each one. By the third one it turned. Went ahead and loosen all of them and it turned freely but I could feel a slight catch. Loosened the rod caps and the catch is gone. Torqued down the main bearing caps and it still turns but is pretty tight. How much effort should a rebuilt motor take to turn? I figure it should be alot tighter than the old 4.0 with 200k I have but this takes a good grunt. Even though I'm happy, I wish I would have done this prior to pulling the head. :doh: I guess it's good to know what it really looked like underthere. :cheers:

Wow what a small world. :eek: I would go with the big pipe idea but I would snap that bolt right off. That's just my luck. I'll pull one rod cap at a time to see if I can find the guilty one. It just sucks that I'm going to end up re-torqing everything or replacing new parts. :fs1:

I wouldn't think this the case. I should have mentioned that it was a professional rebuild from NAPA. I would hope they turned it after it was done to show the customer, but here's some pic's of the underside just in case you can point anything out. Some are big to get all the detail.

So you may remember awhile back I pick up a rebuilt engine for cheap that had never been installed or fired up. Only downside was that it sat for ten years and it would not turn. I figured maybe the rings had rusted to the cylinder walls. However, today I finally pulled the head to find... Only a hint of surface rust that wiped off and a dead spider. I just don't see the rings as being the problem. On the under side it looks just a good with a little surface rust but not on any bearing surface. I thought maybe the timing chain, but I can see it and it looks fine as well. So...WHY WON'T IT TURN! :headpop: Any suggestions on what to pull next? Bearing caps on the cylinders or on the crank? I've also soak everthing with penetrating oil of every kind before and after head removal. Also gave the cylinders a smack with a rubber malet and still nothing. My son asked if there was a packing pin somewhere and I laughed, but hey, is there one? :cheers:

Yeah, the whole hunting thing just never clicked with me. Don't have the patience and end up shooting the breeze. Sorry. :cheers: He still teases me to this day about that. He kept it in the freezer for a long time saying he was going to get it mounted but waited to long and had to throw it out.

That's a crankcase breather/filter or as the parts manaul calls it, (filter, ventilation valve part# 53002466). Not many auto parts stores carry them but the dealership can get it for you. I just got one from them for $11 if I remember right. :cheers:

Vent window gasket, B-pillar vent needs new weather striping, floor shifter may need new rubber, heater box bolts or fan rubber may need replaced, I mean there is a lot of different places to check. Best way to locate it would be if you could pull the carpet back and put talc powder down and when it leaks it would leave a path to the source. :cheers:

Last time I actually seen one of those was when I was little. My brother-inlaw opened up the trunk of his car and told me he had a surprise in the big white cooler. I open the lid only to find the head of one staring right at me. :ack: I nearly sh@t myself. Had nightmares for weeks. Thanks for bringing back my childhood fears. :eek: :cheers:

IMO the turbines are the sexiest wheels for the MJs with stockish size tires. :drool: :cheers:

I say no. Spend the money on the MJ or buy a couple more. One is never enough.:D :cheers: