mfpdm

Go to there website here. http://www.shipgreyhound.com/ Fill in the blocks. The only drawback is that you need to be close to one that ships and the destination needs to be able to recieve. :cheers:

Crankcase ventilation (ccv) This allows the pressure build up in the crankcase to be relieved. If the tubing is clogged the pressure will find another way out like the oil fill cap or air filter box. Oil comes out with the pressure. Pulling the hoses and tubes and cleaning them out may solve your problem. If not, you may have bad rings or valve seals allowing excessive pressure to escape. A compression check on your cylinders will help determine this. :cheers:

9 times out of 10, the wiring is already there in your truck. In the cab, if you pull the dash bezel and the left blank switch bezel, you should see the plug connector for the switch with the illumination bulb socket. There will also be the connector for the cargo light back there as well and it looks the same if I remember correctly. The actual fog lamp plugs would be in the wiring harness on the header panel. However, that harness is separate from the main engine harness and may not have them, as it was easy for the factory to install either one. The relay would be just inside on the firewall next to the radiator I think and again would be depending if your header panel harness has the sockets for the fog lights. With all that said, if you don't have the plugs on the header panel harness, no sweat. Just grab one from an XJ of the same relative year that does and swap them out. If you don't have the connector in the dash harness, then your better off just using your own wiring and relay with the factory swith. :cheers:

Here's a thread about it. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... ilit=china :cheers:

If you are just adding 2 doors in, then everything will go back together just like stock. Just a tad more area to cover on the floor and ceiling. True. I was thinking more on the extended cab version. This is one of my future projects behind all the other ones I want. Even though this one is on a 2dr XJ frame, I really like the clean look of it and think I'll go this route when the time comes. :cheers:

One thing to think about, which may not be a big deal, but it's what popped up in my head with all the cutting and hacking talk. Which ever way you go, you will have to fab up some interior panels to work with all your ideas. Would hate to see you go to all the trouble of making a nice extend cab just to open the doors and see bare metal or worse yet, wood paneling like the old panel vans. :ack: :cheers:

Well, I went back out the JY today and the one measurement that I forgot to take on the sway bar turn out to be critical. From the bend to the link it was about 13 inches vs the stock MJ at about 10. I still think it could work maybe if you move the WJ mount so that the rear bolt would be in the front bolt hole in the frame of the MJ. I really don't have the time to play with that theory or the money, so maybe later. Hey Wade, I got some really good parts today. :brows: :cheers:

Nice looking MJ. :thumbsup: If you plan on keeping the bench, which looks to be in real solid shape, just pull the covers off and put them in the wash. Let them hang to dry, no dryer. :no: They should come out pretty good. Oh in while you have it out, pull the carpet to check for rusty floorboards, then pressure wash the carpet while its out. :cheers:

I'll agree with the sandblasting. Mine looked the same as yours. I hit it with the blaster and found pin holes in some spots. POR 15 is a rust inhibitor/preventor. It penetrates the metal and keeps it from rusting. If you use bedliner over the POR 15, make sure you rough it up good or it will peal back off(ask me how I know :shake: ) Google POR 15 and you will find many sites that sell it. :cheers:

The bushings will have less miles on them but I'm pretty sure they are the same as our stock ones. I might put them on the 86 for awhile, but the 88 has a lot of work before it's on the road. :cheers:

OK, I'll try again. http://www.autocarparts.com/part/1206/49/ I'm sure there are others that sell them. :cheers:

This might help. If I had the cash to play with right now, I'd probably own this. http://norfolk.craigslist.org/pts/1065518449.html EDIT: Never mind on this. It's for a wrangler with the 4.2. :doh: I should go to bed. :oops: :cheers:

Bolt to bolt is the same as our MJs. The curve faces down. It's a tubular design like the lowers with the exception of the open end on the axle side. The curve brings it closer to the axle, but unless you stuffed your tire farther than it should go anyway, it should be fine. I've got control arm drop brackets so the stock lengths are good for me. Oh, the TJs have the same control arms as the MJs and the others. It's amazing that Jeep used them for so long. Side by side with the stock(Actually my stock ones are from my TJ, but again they are the same as the MJs were). Crappy pic but you can see they are the same from bolt to bolt. Bottom side :cheers:

I guess I get rust free floor pans and frames and you get a better selection at the Pik-n-Pull :dunno: :cheers: You win :bowdown: I'd take a factory looking floor pan over good parts selection any day. :cheers:

Don't take this the wrong way, but is your comment based on you have tried this and it would not work or just by observation. True it is a different shape. However, the measurements from frame mount to frame mount are the same as the MJs as well as the measurement from the link mounts on the axle. The center of the swaybar turns down as the MJs does. I looked it over pretty good and took the different shape into consideration. I don't believe any mods would have to be done to accomadate the differences in shape, only the before mentioned mounting holes. The links have a bend in them that off sets them which would correct for the vertical link mount on top. The only thing I didn't measure now that I think about it is the distance from the bend to the end where the link mounts but looking at it, it looked ok. Oh and Wade, there was I think 3 ZJs at the jy today. :brows: :cheers:

Well I picked up WJ control arms today at the JY. Was an 04 that got t-bone by something big. Barely could recognize it as a Jeep. :eek: Lowers Uppers I know all about the lower ones and have been on the fence about using them sereral times, but what about the uppers. I thought I remembered a thread on them not to long ago, but can't find it. Compared to stock uppers, I would say they are stronger but other than that, is there any benefits? It would appear that they would allow the same motion as stock ones without any rubbing or limiting factors. Maybe more drop but I wouldn't think any more up travel. Also, I was looking at the WJ swaybar. That thing is a beast. It even looks bigger than the ZJ one. I measured the mounting points and compared it to the MJ and everything comes out good with the exception of the mounting holes in the frame. The MJ's are about 3 inch apart and the WJ is about 4 inches. There is another hole on the MJ frame one inch behind the rear bolt so I think that would work with minor modding. The swaybar links are a good 3 inches longer than the stock MJs and the swaybar sets about 1 to 1 1/2 inches lower from the frame. This would be perfect or very close to perfect for the 4.5 inch of lift I have. The WJ one also turns the upper link connecting point vertical. So has anyone tried the WJ swaybar with it's stock hardware? :cheers:

It's probably that age thing again. Eyes have seen it, but brain did register it or remember it, which was it? :hmm: :cheers:

I've been doing some research on this swap for a yj which THIS write up talks about how he had to sand down the outside diameter to get his to fit. Might be apples and oranges here, but it might help you out. :cheers:

You can go HERE and it will break the VIN down better for earlier models. And yes it says FSJ but it is for all Jeeps. :cheers:

Find you a good running 4.0 to swap in it. Take a good weekend and do the swap, then build the stroker at your leisure with the motor that came out. JY down here charges $150 for a complete motor. I also like the idea of buying the other one and making either a truggy or Cheromanche out of Rusty. :cheers:

Beautiful MJ. :drool: That one list up there in, "one of the cleanest category". Now for what you wanted to ignore. :brows: At first I didn't think it was truely a Laredo package till I ran the VIN. 8th digit "T" is right for the package. Rest of the digits check out too for what it has. Have never seen a gauge cluster like that one though. I also can't remember ever seeing the open head rest on an MJ either. But hey, all in all it's really nice however with good ole Kelly saying,(Used 89 MJ because it's as far as they go back) Condition Value Excellent $2,675 Good $2,500 Fair $2,250 If I had money to burn, and say that it looked as good as the pictures makes it look, and the engine, tranny, and T-case was replaced with new Jeep parts(brand new sitting in a lost warehouse somewhere) and finally a clean history report with no accidents, I could maybe pay that price. As it sits right now, I could see a $7k-9k sell on it if he holds out long enough, but you never know. "There's a sucker born every minute" :cheers:

Figured I'd ask this up here even though it's for a YJ. Friend of mine is having trouble with his 89 YJ. It has the 258 and pukegoat 5 speed(pretty sure). Found a 4.0 and AX-15 from a 95 YJ for a decent price. I've seen a couple of links but I'd like some first hand knowledge. I know I'll need the engine bay harness and computer as well as a electronic fuel pump or newer gas tank with the fuel pump and sender unit. How hard would it be to swap? Any and all advice would be helpful before he lays out the money for the newer motor and tranny. :cheers:

I know there is at least one maybe two on Oahu but I don't remember if there are any on Maui. I use to spend some time out there for work. Island hopped from Oahu, Maui, and Kauai. Love the lifestyle but way to expensive to live out there. :cheers:

Been there, done that, got the T-shirt. I feel for her because I know what she is going through. Had the exact same size on the same side. After 2 days of it not moving, they sent Luke Skywalker in to blast the Death Star using a small exhaust port. He use to target womp rats that size back home. Well that's what they told me, or maybe it was all the morphine I was jack up on. :chillin: But really, they used a sonic laser thingy to break it up so it would pass. The doctors say that large stones like that for men, is the closes they can come to experiencing a womans pain at child birth. I'm glad I'm not a woman. :yes: Hope she is doing well and remember to take care of yourself. :thumbsup: :cheers:

Here's a few pic's that might give you an idea of what your facing. Here's the striker and plate after it's cracked completely out. You can access it through the hole from inside but I don't think you can get any kind of welder in there. :dunno: You can see that it was just pinch welded in place. You could replace the backing plate with a larger piece of flat steel and maybe bolt it in there, but I think welding it in would be best. Maybe I should have posted this in tech. :doh: :cheers: