mfpdm

:cheers: I was hoping that they were going to be a solid side, not just a sheet of metal in the window hole. Still looks cool though. :thumbsup: :cheers:

Translated, Younger than dirt, but older than snot. :D j/k :cheers:

:agree: That's after a good scrubbing with purple power to get rid of any grease or grease residue. :thumbsup: :cheers:

Since it's on a stand I'll do the head then the manifolds. I was thinking about this but didn't think it went up that high. My neighbor is a plumber, I'll see if he has some. :brows: :cheers:

So Jeff, How's this holding up? I'm getting ready here soon for a valve cover and have been considering this. Did you just plug the rest of the vacuum lines in the front? :cheers:

So looking at my manual for re-installing the head on a 4.0, it has, apply sealing compound on bolt 11. I know why because the bolt hole goes all the way through, but what would be an appropriate compound? Would lock tight be ok or maybe the Right stuff gasket sealer? :dunno: :cheers:

Nice piece. :thumbsup: Would love to see this, :cheers:

you can find them on ebay cheaper Or you could booty fab it with this for a couple of bucks. j/k :D :cheers:

Check out this write up, Click Here And Welcome to the Club. :cheers:

Thanks for all the comments. :cheers: He does and he helps me when he can. Life is real busy for a Senior. Besides, sometimes I'm difficult to work with. :shake: I think prep work is the key. I usually wash whatever I'm painting with purple power a couple of times using a hard or medium brush, then sand/wirewheel/sandblast depending on what it is and what condition the paint on it is. Prime if needed, usually 2 to 3 coats, then paint with 2 to 4 light coats. Follow the recommended temps and humidity instructions on the can. This will save you from re-doing things or settling for a poor result. Take your time and live with the fact that if you paint it one day you need to wait a solid 24 hrs before you mess with it. A lot of times it will be 2 or 3 days before I handle them. Got the grease at Advanced Auto. Little pricey but worth it not having to mess with the tubes. :thumbsup:

Well, how about an update on this thing. It's been slow and the little bit here and little bit there is adding up so I'll show you the progress. I'm sure I'll forget some things because it's been so long. Re-did all the wiring harnesses and they're all back in the truck. Here's a couple waiting their turn. Used Di-eletric grease on most of the connections and exposed circuits. Back in it's hole Cleaned up the door latches Before and after. Will pack them with fresh grease when I install them but before that, I had to try and fix the goof up from the body shop painting over the door lock seals. :shake: before and after removal Hit it with some matching paint Pulled the steering column apart to fix the tilt knuckle. Here you can see one of the tilt knuckle bolts stuck up in the upper portion of the column. All of them were completly loose with two of them all the way out. Changed out the lock cylinder with a new black one and put it all back together. Since the new lock is black I added the black tilt lever and put it back in the truck. I'll be looking for a good black turn signal stalk to finish the chrome removal process. Have pulled the dash about four times since it went in to re-route wires and what not. In this pic of the fresh factory radio install, you can see at the bottom right another reason to pull it again. Yep, that was the passenger side vent hose that should be connected up by the defrost outlet. :doh: Got it out and back together again and put the defroster cowl in to prepare for the glass install in a couple of days. Put new weather strip on the cowl. and put it on Added some more of the insulation to the cab. Here's the back Have also done inside the cab corners behind the speakers and still have to do the roof before the headliner goes in. Got the bottom half of the engine back together with new main and rod bearings. Will get the head on soon. Picked up a new to me airbox and cleaned it up. Cleaned up the frame mount for the motor and gave them a coat of paint. You can see the heavy duty trackbar mount there so here's the rest of it installed. And the last for now, the steering shaft installed. I'll try to update this again real soon. :thumbsup: :cheers:

Actually I'll kind of do both. I put them on the 86 and move them by hand. On the 88, they will be electric and will use the stock mirror controls from the pre-97 XJs. :cheers:

Jeff I've got the same problem with to much pressure and blowing it out the oil cap. Only thing different is that it's not going into the filter. I've yet to do a compression test but the darn thing runs pretty smooth. I pulled the valve cover when I got it and cleaned it all up so I know their is no clogs there and I replaced that vavle/filter thingy on the rear of the cover. I've recently started to see moisture in the oil in the form of the tan-ish foam. This is making me believe I may have a crack in the block or head, which if I'm thinking right could cause un-wanted pressure under the valve cover. Or am I out to lunch on this. :dunno: :cheers:

Since your going to the trouble, find a set of 97+ XJ mirrors. They are better and allow you to fold them out of the way on the trail. Here's a write up in the DIY section. :cheers:

We're on the same page. :thumbsup: I have a habit of referring to the whole assemble as the fan. My bad. I should have been more specific. I had a similar problem and ended up changing the whole assemble. :cheers:

I was leaning towards this as well. The motor is going to move a little as per design of the rubber mounts. If it was a solid mount and didn't allow flex, it would start shearing bolts. I would think that even if the motor mounts were toast, that the engine would still not move forward enough to hit the radiator. Since it didn't hit it when the shroud was on, I feel that the fan was moving out and stoping on the shroud, which gave it enough resistance to stop forward movement. You removed the shroud, and it let it move further out to hit the radiator. I'd locate another fan and try it before spending cash elsewhere. Just my thoughts, but I live by the KISS principle. :cheers:

From the seller. I can't imagine who was the "rude" one. :shake: After looking in the JY this weekend, the tail lights on a full size dodge ram looked more like the one he had listed. :dunno: Anyhow, it's over. On a side note. I would hope that when something like this found, we will try to keep it civil to the seller. Whether they take the advice or not, there is no need to be ugly. It only reflects poorly over our purpose here. :cheers:

:hmm: That's funny right there. :rotf: Could not resist making a special rank for ya. :D Ok, I really fixed it this time. Maybe I should wear my glasses more often. On the otherhand, I'll be keeping an eye on your posts.:peek: Don't slip up. :evil: :cheers:

:hmm: I hate when that happens. :doh: I fixed it.

Well I tried to let him know and here was his response: 1039 is the last four of one of the other comanche tail light auctions.

So I saw THIS on ebay. Isn't this a Dakota tail light. Comanches only came in red, black trim, and chrome trim to my knowledge. Never a combination of black and chrome. Also the screw holes don't match that of a comanche along with the rounded corners of the lens. So am I wrong here? Here's a pic of a 87 Dakota tail light And here's a set of 87 Comanche tail lights Now I know there are some rumors that there was one year from the Dakota's that would fit the MJ's but I have yet to see proof of that. Regardless of that fact, I think that is a Dakota tail light. :cheers:

:agree: Seeing how he is a dealership, you should be able to pull that card. You know darn well if he took it in on a trade, he only gave them book value if that. Flash Ten one hundreds in his face and start from there. Point out anything you can see wrong with it(missing interior light as an example). Crawl under it and look for rust. He'll either bend or you'll walk away. :cheers:

Tools or not, I would have chewed the bolts off to pull a set of RE coils out of the JY. I find lots of stuff but never the high dollar RE stuff. Well if I'm remembering right the measurements on the ones I saw was a tad bit under an inch so that would match the 4.0 swaybar. I wonder why the V8 had the smaller one?

Not to get off the OP's original question but The last time out at the JY there were 5 ZJ's, one V8 and 4 4.0's. I measured the swaybars on all of them and they were all the same. Roughly about an inch if I remember right but none the less all the same. So with that said, what is the diameter of the V8 swaybar from the ZJ and are their certain years to pull from? :cheers:

I forgot one part of my story. The reason the battery was a few weeks old was that my other one, which was probably about 7 months old would not hold a charge very long. Got it from advanced auto. I had my son just for sanity sake, take it back to them and have them test it. Ended up having a bad cell and they replaced it under warranty. Guy said it just happens sometimes. Reason I bring that up, is have you had the battery tested even though it is only 4 months old? Just a thought. :cheers: