mfpdm

I've got to get both the temp and knock for mine. Broke one pulling the connector and the other pulling the engine. It will be easier for me seeing that the motor is out of the truck. :D :cheers:

One is the O2 sensor, one is the knock sensor, and the last one is the coolant temperature sensor. O2- on exhaust knock- on block behind the engine mount by oil pan Temp- on block under intake manifold :cheers:

I had a power drain on the 86. Battery was about three weeks old. Jumped it and charged it back up. Next morning it was dead. Went to pull the paperwork for the battery out of the glovebox and found the problem. The glovebox door was not latching all the way so the light would stay on. :doh: Adjusted the latch and fixed the problem. I will have to say though, the battery lasted three weeks with the light on which kind of impressed me. :cheers:

Aww, come on. It wasn't completely his doing. I pulled the cap off the gas can and left the matches out with the first post. I pretty much knew what would happen. :evil: I'll offer up a token of peace.

Found the 86 unit and it was 6-98 ohms so I think that would be enough to convince me that the 0-90 would be right. :cheers:

From what I can find on the NET, most say 0-90 ohms. Here's a link that tells you how to find out from your current sending unit (if you have it and it's not broke) http://www.stewartwarner.com/tech/faqSd.html :cheers: EDIT: Just went out and played Mr. Wizard with my volt meter using the instructions from that link. Had two different years and one came out 5-95 ohms and the other came out 10-110 ohms. I'd give them a fudge factor of + or - 5. I've got an 86 one somewhere, so when I find it, I'll check it out as well. I figure since they used the same gauge up to the point they went HO, they should all read the same.

My Mitchell repair cd has 13 ft lbs for the water pump bolts. :cheers:

I hate to disagree with you Pete, but my post to the classified threat is no longer under this thread or under my profile. :dunno: Here's a personal example of someone just signing up to sell his Comanche parts on this forum. I'll leave names out to protect the users. I had responded to a classified on here by someone that I knew was not a regular and was just trying to sell parts. It was for the hard to find black interior Comanche specific parts so I took the chance. I pm the guy and so did someone else on this forum. Told him what I was looking for and what I would pay. His reply back was that it was to low and he had been offered much more by the other member. I said fine, go ahead and sell it to him. The other member had then PM'd me asking if I had got the same story he got from the guy, which was yes. Turns out he was playing us against each other to only MAKE MONEY. I then got several pm's from the seller after I already turn down the parts, still trying to score the sell. So, I get a little peaved when I see this kind of thing. Not so much when its a seller trying to just sell his whole truck, but when it's someone that makes his living doing nothing but getting the best price on his inventory. Like I said before, if a member says he treated them good than my opinion may change or if he'd post a price list so there's no guessing about his intentions on playing us as a honey pot. I would think since he does appear to be in the used parts business, a sample price list would be easy to come up with.

Well, I guess my post on this subject was considered spam, because it damn sure got deleted. I'll judge this guys intention when one of you tell me of the great deal you got from him. Until then...I'll give you some more COWBELL.

Sorry, I've wanted to use that for a long time. :D Keep up the great work on the project. :thumbsup:

From what Mr Google tells me, that is a dealer only part because of the non standard size/amps. Found this part number from JF, 4.8 amp breaker part # 56001110. :cheers: FSM says it's 5.5 amp breaker but the part # is right.

I'd say, if you plan on doing any more Dukes of Hazzard stunts, go with the 60. And don't forget to add a Dixie horn for when you jump. :cheers:

Only trick I know is take your time and not force it. However, you can loosen the two 15MM bolts on the bottom side of the column to give you about a 1/2 to 1 inch more room. Just be carefull not to pull down on the column too much as it will bend the flange where it mounts to the firewall. :cheers:

Not sure. The FSM that I reference while doing this was written for the shift on the column. It just noted what you didn't have to do if you had the non-shifter tilt column. I'm sure some parts would be interchangeable. I didn't want to do it the first time. :brows: However, I'm glad that I did it and gain the knowledge. I was very pleased with myself and went inside to brag about it, but everyone had already gone to bed. :( I'm sure the next time it will be a little easier. :cheers:

My 86 has those and it was a base model. You can see them sticking out a little on the second page of my build thread. The PO may have put them on but I doubt it. Will watch to see how this comes out for you as I'm interested in them for the 88. :cheers:

You can check the harness going to the tail lights. The part in the cab that runs along the drivers side rocker then across to almost the tranny tunnel then out the floor. The part that is under the truck is a pain as it runs up over the gas tank and squeezes through a tight spot by the crossmember then on to the tail light harness. Bad thing about that one is that to get it out without cutting the ends off, you need to undo all the bed bolts to lift the bed up about an inch. I found this out after I put my bed on and gas tank in before I put the wire back. Reason I suggest this as it sounds like you have a short. If a wire in the rear harness is fraid and if water is getting in it, it would cause and intermittent problem. Since you had the dash apart, you might as well check the somewhat easier part before pulling it again. :cheers:

Finally took the column apart and fixed it. Wasn't too bad just slow. The column came out of my donor XJ that was said to be the cause of the wreck. Well, I can see how it could have done it. The tilt knuckle was completely loose. 1 of the bolts was all the way out. The rest were all the way loose just not out of the holes. Made me a make shift puller for the side pins with a machine screw, washer, nut, and a couple of sockets. Worked great. Put lock tite on all the bolts for the knuckle and torq'd them down. Put it all back together minus the steering wheel. I have to get a tap and die set to fix the first couple of threads on the steering shaft that the wheel puller screwed up. :shake: It feels smooth turning with no play in the tilt and since I had it apart, I changed out the key cylinder too. :thumbsup:

10K is more than fair since it has a "custom grenade shifter" :clapping: When it pisses you off bad enough, you just pull the pin and bail out. :peek: You think after all the trouble to do this, and asking 10K, he could throw a charge on the a/c, fix the fan instead of rigging it, put some bolts in the seat, get an alignment (Don't think it's going to solve the vibes though) and replace the mirror. :shake: This is what I was hinting about in the other thread when I brought up doing the interior right. Lack of shoulder restraints, gap at the back corner, and sound bar just wedged in place. Don't get me wrong. Its nice what he did. He could get that price if he had put the extra effort in the fine details. Appears he went across Rustys website with a crap magnet. :D Maybe I'm just to picky. :dunno:

Actually Comanches unfortunately have VERY poor crash ratings as far as protecting occupants. NHTSA Star ratings (with 5 being the best) are 2 or 3 stars (depending on year) frontal impact and 1 star :eek: for side impact. LINK: http://www.safecarguide.com/exp/archive/archive.htm The Comanche is actually one of the lowest. Take a look at the video of the Comanche crash and keep this in mind; a score of 1,000 or below is considered "non-fatal" for frontal head injury. The Comanche scored a 1147 driver and 1635 passenger HIC. Not good. LINK: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30iAyJR7rVk&feature=related I used to work as an automotive insurance adjuster so I've seen my fair share of damaged vehicles and injuries. When a vehicle's crush zone collapses it absorbs energy. If it doesn't collapse YOU absorb the energy. I guess using the words "crash rating" was bad on my part. What I was really meaning was the trucks ability to survive a crash better than other cars. If they had airbags, their frontal rating would be a whole lot better. Just look at the rating for the 95-96 XJs. Thing I was looking at with the video was how very little the cab was impacted. Yeah, your going to smack your head but unless your unconscious or your brain is hanging out, you should be able to get out without the jaws of life. Thing I do find kind of screwy with their ratings is that the CJ7 has a 4 star side impact rating. :nuts: 1984--- Jeep Cherokee-------- 2Dr-- 3645 (**** ) (* ) 1989--- Jeep Cherokee-------- 4Dr-- 3284 (** ) (* ) 1990-94 Jeep Cherokee-------- 4Dr-- 3270 (*** ) (*** ) 1995-96 Jeep Cherokee-------- 4Dr-- 2983 (**** ) (**** ) 1997--- Jeep Cherokee--4X4--- 4dr-- 3488 (*** ) (*** ) 1984--- Jeep CJ7------------- 2Dr-- 3180 (**** ) (**** ) 1986--- Jeep Comanche-------- PU--- 3555 (*** ) ( N/A ) 1987--- Jeep Comanche-------- PU--- 3554 (** ) (* ) Sorry for the :hijack:

Here's one not many of us think about. They have a good crash rating over some newer cars and can withstand some abuse. Check out the video below. I do get a little teary eyed watching it though. Click Here for Video :cheers:

I was thinking with all that money into the suspension and tires thay could afford something bigger and better than the 350. Paint job looks ok. Looks like caterpiller orange. :cheers:

Paint the egg with a clear two part epoxy. That should harden the shell, then encase it in wax. Not the hard brittle stuff but the soft wax. Or, throw the egg at the teachers car and take the zero. :evil: :cheers:

That's odd. You sure it was greyhound? Reason being, a motor would be way over their weight and size limitations. :dunno:

Now that I think about it, it's more like 50/50. I've run across a couple in the JY but I think I was thinking more of the underdash lighting plugs. :doh: However, I do know I've seen quite a few XJs with the wiring already there.