Codycobra84

Ok, did a leak down test on the number 1 cylinder and don't look to good. I put right at 100psi into it and had a steady flow of air coming out of the oil cap on the valve cover. So I'm guessing that would show that the rings have gone out on that piston? :dunno: I'm not really sure the only other thing that I could think would be that a valve seal went bad and a valve wasn't seating like it should but I guess that would've made the air come out of the intake/exhaust depending on the valve. I guess the next step would be pulling the valve cover......yay, lol....unless someone knows something that I don't know. -Cody

As far as vac lines I didn't see any that had been knocked off, how ever I did a compression test on it and I don't like the results. From front to back the pressures avgeraged : 105/120/125/125/120/120 All of these were done with all the plugs removed on a cold engine, I'm gonna do a leak down test and see if/where the air comes out of. But any/all ideas will be thought about. -Cody

It's an '88 MJ 4.0 2wd AX-15 5spd. with 196,500miles. Yeah strange enough the thing gets fresh oil and has a fit about it. I'll check the lines when I mess with it this afternoon, but I don't remember knocking any off. -Cody

Ok, so I just looked into something, and was messing with the TPS to see if it was out of adjustment. Well what I discovered was that the "A" and "B" test were it should be 5 volts was only showing like 4.6ish and then when I tried to adjust it the voltage wouldn't change at all and it stayed on 4.6ish volts from 0-full throttle. I can't remember if it's supposed to stay the same or not. Now when I tested the "C" and "B" test the voltage would change some but I'm not sure what it should/shouldn't be at. I'm not sure if that would make it a bad sensor or not, so that's why I was asking. -Cody

Not sure about the O2 sensor, the guy I got it from said it had been changed but didn't say how long ago. As far as the Cat goes it seems fine, doesn't seemed stoped up or anything, I've been thinking about cutting it off anyways but then I just add more work to the problem b/c I'll have to find/buy/weld in a section of pipe. -Cody

Ok, truck started acting up the other day and now it's giving me a strange problem. Basicly it has what sounds like a miss but it's not a miss. I just recently put a new crank sensor in it so I know it's not bad. Anyways what it's doing is spitting and sputtering when it's under a load and reaks of gas. When I'm light on the pedal it will rev up but still has a little trouble doing so. My first thing I thought was the distributor was bad, then figured it was the cam sensor(aka: stator/etc...). I changed the stator in the distributor put everything back together and still had the same issues. The smell of gas wasn't as bad, but the miss was still there. I went down the engine pulling each plug wire and starting it up one plug at a time checking to see where the miss was comming from but it gave the same results with each cylinder...i.e. there was a miss that never went away on any of the trys. I can't figure out if it's a fuel problem, not enough spark, computer, who knows... The only thing that I've done before this happened was changed the oil, and it was like 3-4hrs after changing the oil. I'm stuck and am losing my mind with this thing, someone tell me its something easy please. -Cody

Sorry for the long wait, but I ended up figuring out the issue. I was getting fire/fuel/air into the moter and still nothing. Then I figured out that when there's water in the gas it's harder to burn.....and it's really hard when it's about a 50/50 mix of fuel/water. I forgot about a little thing I did last week when mounting my tool box to the bed floor, I used a drill and I guess it went alittle to far........yay for stupidity :dunce: .....so after dropping the tank fixing and cleaning everything it's running again. But of course before doing that I changed the CPS out on it as well, 30 some dollars I didn't have to spend.....oh well, lol. Thanks for the ideas of whats wrong, next time I'm just gonna look and a mirror and ask myself what stupid thing did I do this time. :shake: -Cody

No, I sprayed some starting fluid into the TB and nothing changed.

Ok truck is having some problems and I need help. All of this happened this morning after a hard rain last night. 7:30 this morning get into the truck and start it up like normal. Idled just fine for like a min-min and a half, then idled a little lower....and then lower....untill it shut off. I figured no biggie and restarted it. It started up but had a pretty good miss, I tried to rev it up alittle to see if it would clear up but it wouldn't gain but maybe 500rpms then bogged down and shut off. Now the stuff that I've tried would be: check the dist. cap for moisture(and added a little wd-40 inside the cap), checked the plugs/wires/coil all good, there is fuel in the rail, the cam is moving, and there is no change when I add alittle starting fluid. The only things that I can think of would be either a distributor or a crank sensor. My only thing is I didn't know if it could be either one. Now there is something new that I found out just a little bit ago but I'm not sure , it may just be me being crazy. Anyways when I try to start it up it sounds like there is zero compression on the engine, but it may be b/c the battery is alittle low on power from tryin to mess with it. It's just a kinda stedy starter motor turning sound. Any help would be great, not really sure if anys of yall have had to deal with anything like this, thanks for any advise in advance. -Cody

Nice, I'm only like 20mins away from ya up in Mooresville.

Lookin good, I wanna know how the HO swap goes. I'm tryin to figure out if I wanna go 4.6 H.O. or 4BT Cummins, lol. Anyways, great lookin MJ, I hope that mine looks near that nice at some point in it's life. -Cody

When changing the clutch line I'd recomend just swapping the whole clutch setup. I changed everything but the pedal on mine: Clutch master cylinder/hard plastic line/external slave/etc the whole works. Only reason I recomend it is (at least on mine ('88 4.0)) the BA-10's line screws into the master cylinder and slave but the internal newer style has plastic ends that are held in place with a little pin. I tried ti adapt the lines but that didn't work, and after spending extra money that I didn't have trying to make it work I went to a j/y and pulled the whole thing and it went right in in like 15mins and I haven't had a problem with it since. This isn't a really hard swap if you've messed with trannys before just make sure you can stay calm under stress, I hurt my hands a few times punching the underside of the truck. I think the clutches are the same size, but seeing how I was changing the tranny/slave cylinder set up I figured a new clutch kit was the smart thing to do. After tearing it apart I know that I don't want to do that again anytime soon. -Cody

Ok gotta little issue and I though I fixed it but I guess I didn't. In my '88 MJ the stock guages keep having an issue. Every now and again the electrical guages will all die along with the idiot lights on the sides, the only thing that will work is the spedo (I know its cable driven). The lights in the cluster will work, but I rewired them to a switched power source b/c the light switch wouldn't switch them on and off anymore, b/c of some issue and it wasn't in the switch. Anyways, the guages being hit/miss basicly would be triggered but either a big bump/the park brake being let off fast/slamming the drivers door. I've been thinking that there must be some ground down near the kick panel or besides the park brake but that wiring is almost to the point of calling it a rats nest. Anyways I've cleaned all the conections that plug into the cluster it's self with no help. So if anyone has any ideas or info let me know. The guages pretty much quit yesterday but like I said I think it's just a connection, but I just want my guages back :( . -Thanks Guys, Cody

Nice work, but not tryin to knock what you did or anything, but why couldn't you just get the clutch master cylinder from like a mid '90s XJ with a 5spd? When I did my AX-15 swap I picked up one at the j/y and it just bolted in

Heck 9 times our of 10 I don't even charge people to swap the stems if they bring the wheel/tire in and I don't have to put it back on to the car. I know it sounds like I'm lazy...mainly b/c I am lazy but that's not important. -Cody