Codycobra84

Ok, did a leak down test on the number 1 cylinder and don't look to good. I put right at 100psi into it and had a steady flow of air coming out of the oil cap on the valve cover. So I'm guessing that would show that the rings have gone out on that piston? :dunno: I'm not really sure the only other thing that I could think would be that a valve seal went bad and a valve wasn't seating like it should but I guess that would've made the air come out of the intake/exhaust depending on the valve. I guess the next step would be pulling the valve cover......yay, lol....unless someone knows something that I don't know. -Cody

As far as vac lines I didn't see any that had been knocked off, how ever I did a compression test on it and I don't like the results. From front to back the pressures avgeraged : 105/120/125/125/120/120 All of these were done with all the plugs removed on a cold engine, I'm gonna do a leak down test and see if/where the air comes out of. But any/all ideas will be thought about. -Cody

It's an '88 MJ 4.0 2wd AX-15 5spd. with 196,500miles. Yeah strange enough the thing gets fresh oil and has a fit about it. I'll check the lines when I mess with it this afternoon, but I don't remember knocking any off. -Cody

Ok, so I just looked into something, and was messing with the TPS to see if it was out of adjustment. Well what I discovered was that the "A" and "B" test were it should be 5 volts was only showing like 4.6ish and then when I tried to adjust it the voltage wouldn't change at all and it stayed on 4.6ish volts from 0-full throttle. I can't remember if it's supposed to stay the same or not. Now when I tested the "C" and "B" test the voltage would change some but I'm not sure what it should/shouldn't be at. I'm not sure if that would make it a bad sensor or not, so that's why I was asking. -Cody

Not sure about the O2 sensor, the guy I got it from said it had been changed but didn't say how long ago. As far as the Cat goes it seems fine, doesn't seemed stoped up or anything, I've been thinking about cutting it off anyways but then I just add more work to the problem b/c I'll have to find/buy/weld in a section of pipe. -Cody

Ok, truck started acting up the other day and now it's giving me a strange problem. Basicly it has what sounds like a miss but it's not a miss. I just recently put a new crank sensor in it so I know it's not bad. Anyways what it's doing is spitting and sputtering when it's under a load and reaks of gas. When I'm light on the pedal it will rev up but still has a little trouble doing so. My first thing I thought was the distributor was bad, then figured it was the cam sensor(aka: stator/etc...). I changed the stator in the distributor put everything back together and still had the same issues. The smell of gas wasn't as bad, but the miss was still there. I went down the engine pulling each plug wire and starting it up one plug at a time checking to see where the miss was comming from but it gave the same results with each cylinder...i.e. there was a miss that never went away on any of the trys. I can't figure out if it's a fuel problem, not enough spark, computer, who knows... The only thing that I've done before this happened was changed the oil, and it was like 3-4hrs after changing the oil. I'm stuck and am losing my mind with this thing, someone tell me its something easy please. -Cody

Sorry for the long wait, but I ended up figuring out the issue. I was getting fire/fuel/air into the moter and still nothing. Then I figured out that when there's water in the gas it's harder to burn.....and it's really hard when it's about a 50/50 mix of fuel/water. I forgot about a little thing I did last week when mounting my tool box to the bed floor, I used a drill and I guess it went alittle to far........yay for stupidity :dunce: .....so after dropping the tank fixing and cleaning everything it's running again. But of course before doing that I changed the CPS out on it as well, 30 some dollars I didn't have to spend.....oh well, lol. Thanks for the ideas of whats wrong, next time I'm just gonna look and a mirror and ask myself what stupid thing did I do this time. :shake: -Cody

No, I sprayed some starting fluid into the TB and nothing changed.

Ok truck is having some problems and I need help. All of this happened this morning after a hard rain last night. 7:30 this morning get into the truck and start it up like normal. Idled just fine for like a min-min and a half, then idled a little lower....and then lower....untill it shut off. I figured no biggie and restarted it. It started up but had a pretty good miss, I tried to rev it up alittle to see if it would clear up but it wouldn't gain but maybe 500rpms then bogged down and shut off. Now the stuff that I've tried would be: check the dist. cap for moisture(and added a little wd-40 inside the cap), checked the plugs/wires/coil all good, there is fuel in the rail, the cam is moving, and there is no change when I add alittle starting fluid. The only things that I can think of would be either a distributor or a crank sensor. My only thing is I didn't know if it could be either one. Now there is something new that I found out just a little bit ago but I'm not sure , it may just be me being crazy. Anyways when I try to start it up it sounds like there is zero compression on the engine, but it may be b/c the battery is alittle low on power from tryin to mess with it. It's just a kinda stedy starter motor turning sound. Any help would be great, not really sure if anys of yall have had to deal with anything like this, thanks for any advise in advance. -Cody

Nice, I'm only like 20mins away from ya up in Mooresville.

Lookin good, I wanna know how the HO swap goes. I'm tryin to figure out if I wanna go 4.6 H.O. or 4BT Cummins, lol. Anyways, great lookin MJ, I hope that mine looks near that nice at some point in it's life. -Cody

When changing the clutch line I'd recomend just swapping the whole clutch setup. I changed everything but the pedal on mine: Clutch master cylinder/hard plastic line/external slave/etc the whole works. Only reason I recomend it is (at least on mine ('88 4.0)) the BA-10's line screws into the master cylinder and slave but the internal newer style has plastic ends that are held in place with a little pin. I tried ti adapt the lines but that didn't work, and after spending extra money that I didn't have trying to make it work I went to a j/y and pulled the whole thing and it went right in in like 15mins and I haven't had a problem with it since. This isn't a really hard swap if you've messed with trannys before just make sure you can stay calm under stress, I hurt my hands a few times punching the underside of the truck. I think the clutches are the same size, but seeing how I was changing the tranny/slave cylinder set up I figured a new clutch kit was the smart thing to do. After tearing it apart I know that I don't want to do that again anytime soon. -Cody

Ok gotta little issue and I though I fixed it but I guess I didn't. In my '88 MJ the stock guages keep having an issue. Every now and again the electrical guages will all die along with the idiot lights on the sides, the only thing that will work is the spedo (I know its cable driven). The lights in the cluster will work, but I rewired them to a switched power source b/c the light switch wouldn't switch them on and off anymore, b/c of some issue and it wasn't in the switch. Anyways, the guages being hit/miss basicly would be triggered but either a big bump/the park brake being let off fast/slamming the drivers door. I've been thinking that there must be some ground down near the kick panel or besides the park brake but that wiring is almost to the point of calling it a rats nest. Anyways I've cleaned all the conections that plug into the cluster it's self with no help. So if anyone has any ideas or info let me know. The guages pretty much quit yesterday but like I said I think it's just a connection, but I just want my guages back :( . -Thanks Guys, Cody

Nice work, but not tryin to knock what you did or anything, but why couldn't you just get the clutch master cylinder from like a mid '90s XJ with a 5spd? When I did my AX-15 swap I picked up one at the j/y and it just bolted in

Heck 9 times our of 10 I don't even charge people to swap the stems if they bring the wheel/tire in and I don't have to put it back on to the car. I know it sounds like I'm lazy...mainly b/c I am lazy but that's not important. -Cody

I'm Cody Martin, Live in Mooresville, N.C. (bout 20mins north of Charlotte) Drive a '88 MJ 4.0/AX-15/2wd/Long Bed Pioneer

What's the best fluid for a Dana 35? Well I guess my better question would be should it or should it not be a GL-5 type fluid? My book says GL-5 but it also said that for the transmission and that was a big oops. -Cody

Well I'm thinkin about just replaceing it later, just pull out anything that might cause any issues or rubbing. I got back from GA thismorning, me and Tiff ended up deciding not to stay the night.....well it was more like we were gonna go part way back then stop but we stopped to get gas....got coffee and then we ended up in Mooresville around about 130ish this morning. And Bo thanks a million times over again. We got the Jeep over to my moms place, empty two car garage with a compressor vs. gravel drive on a hill....yeah I went over there around 10 thismorning, the old rear is sittin on the ground and the new one is ready to go in. Had to go get some new u-bolts. It amazed me b/c I didn't break anthing till the last u-bolt nut....but they were trashed anyway so I figured it wouldn't hurt anyways. But it'll go in tonight or tomorrow, and hopefully I can get a set of lift shackles built this weekend b/c I think the springs and spacers are goin in with the rear end...I can't stand to look a spare parts just sit around and not get used. But yeah, I figured I'd give yall a little up date on how it's commin along, and btw from what I was told the other day there most likly gonna rule it 50/50 at fault so it would mean I pay for mine and she pays for hers, and I have no problems with that. -Cody

shelbyluvv...check your p.m.'s

My whole issue is I need to get the truck back on the road asap, I really want to go with a 8.8 but have limited funds and limited time. I have acess to welders and what not, just have to drive like 20mins to get to it. I'm either going to have to drive to Spartanburg, SC (8.8 for $100) or GA (Dana35 for $0). With gas prices it would almost be worth spending the money for the 8.8 and the $40 for the yoke adapter, but time/money comes back into the issue. My whole thing is that I don't want to put a Dana 35 in it and then end up doing the swap like 3-4months down the road just to save some money now. :???: I'm confused, and tryin to convince my other half that it's worth the money to do the swap. Errrrr......

Mines 2wd, ;) I was wondering b/c of speedo difference, and driveablity.

No worries Cody. I can drag it part of the way too if needed. Thanks man, I'm tryin to figure out for sure what I'm gonna be upagainst with the 8.8 and I'll let you know asap. I need to figure out what gears are in my truck now so I can figure out if the 3:73's will be a big difference or not. -Cody

Ok question, being that my truck is gonna stay at stock height for a while, if I do this swap will the offset of the yoke on the 8.8 cause any issues. I think it's like around 2inches more to the right, and I'm running the standard two u-joint 2wd driveshaft (one front/one rear). And how much modding will I have to do to the brake lines/porp. valve/etc? I understand the need to mod the e-brake cable and that's no biggie I just don't want to find out that I need to replace half the lines on the truck just to use this rear end. I know on the Rangers we'd just swap these right in without changing anything except the u-bolt plates b/c the shock mounts but I know that Jeeps are little different. -Cody

Well it's not looking the greatest about it being her fault, but I'm talkin with some freinds in law enforcement and things are lookin better. As far as I'm concerned as long as I'm not in any trouble I don't care if she pays for mine or not.....I just want my truck back. Shelby....let me see how bad it's gonna be to put a 8.8 in it and if it's gonna be a pita then I'll get up with you about drivin down there, it's about 5-5.5hrs from me to you...give or take alittle. -Cody

Besides the moving and re-welding of the perches what else needs to be done/changed when putting a Ford 8.8 rear in. The new rearend is going to be a 8.8 3:73LS/31spline/disk brake set up. Any help would be great, I have to decide on either this rear end or putting another Dana back in it from an XJ. Thanks Yall, Cody