mfpdm

My bad. I assumed you had a tilt because you said you busted out the piece behind the multifunction stalk. I figured you just over stated by saying busted, but you really did. As the non-tilt that I have that piece is with the column piece and not separate like the tilt's. Here's a link that may help a little. It's on swapping the lock cylinder for non-tilts. I can see the four screws that you're refering to, I think. http://street2mud.com/webfiles/Key%20Cy ... Column.pdf :cheers:

Cleaning up the flywheel today in prep to mate the tranny back up and I was wondering, can they be painted without ill effects? Not talking a major look great paint job, just some primer and a flat black to help preserve it over time. Looks like it had something at one time maybe. :dunno:

Many moons ago, I had a 66 Chevy pickup with 16in wide slicks on the rear. Was heading over to my girlfriends house when a car pulled up beside me with 4 girls in it. I decided to impress them and stomped the gas. Burned out a good bit and then took a corner and hit it some more. Half mile or so I had some god awful noise coming from under my seat. It stopped and then I noticed no matter how much gas I gave it I wasn't going anywhere. Pulled over just in time to hear my driveshaft hit the ground. Ripped the carrier bearing clean off and now my two piece drive shaft was in two separate pieces. Called my dad and he met me with a tow truck. Had the shop keep it over night and picked it up the next day. Soo, later the next day, I picked up my girlfriend from work and was taking her home. She was real tired and had laid down across the seat with her head in my lap. Stopped at a stop light and lo and behold the car next to me was the same girls from the night before. They started talking to me and asked if I'd burn out again. At about that time my girlfriend pick her head up and the girls in the car started laughing. I was pissed so I burned out when the light changed and argued the whole way to my girlfriends house. :roll: At least the new drive shaft held out. :brows: Later, I left her house and decided to go to the local crusing spot as I was sure to find those girls. I ran out of gas on the way there. :wall: Good ole days of youth and not a lot of sense. :D

That is what I thought but, then found out that if it was 4wd with the 2.5L or if it was a 2wd with auto tranny, they qualified. Also the 91's and 92's 2wd 2.5L with 5spd qualified. I still think I saw some that didn't match those, but then again, how many of us have swapped drivetrains. I'm assuming that the drivetrain column is going by the VIN and not what was actually in the truck. :cheers: Anyhow, I'm sad that our country was so wasteful and people can be made to do anything if you dangle a little green in their face. :( Next will be Gas for Geezers. Turn in one of your old broken down relatives and receive a Citgo gas card.

We are talking a saginaw column here right? There's no prying any column cover off of it if you want it to go back on. You have to remove the wheel, clock spring, turn signal ring, ignition key, and hazard pull knob to get the top plastic off. The only part that will come off is the one he popped off by accident and that is not the way it was intended. Sounds to me that either the key switch may not have the retaining screw in it, which is allowing the whole thing to turn or something is mis-aligned. Did you have this thing completely apart? Did you make sure this little piece got put back in right? It's important as it works in conjuction with the key switch. Here's a good link that shows how to take apart and put the columns back together. http://brackmann.org/berkeley/Jeep/wren ... gwheel.htm :cheers:

When you hold your mouse over a pic, the drop down will have a little box to check. Do that to all the pic's you want to delete then at the bottom of the page you will see a new tool bar that allows you to delete selected. :cheers:

Yep, that is a common problem with the tilt columns. You have to pull the column completely apart to fix it. There are four bolts that work loose on the tilt part. All four of mine were loose with two that had come out all the way and was rattling around inside. I used this write up to help pull it apart and put it back together. http://brackmann.org/berkeley/Jeep/wren ... gwheel.htm :cheers:

Are the maintenance timers in HO era Jeeps? Seems like all the parts lookup for it has 88-90 for the replacement module. :dunno: :cheers:

It is indeed for the low washer sensor however, it wasn't solely related to the sentry system. Different trim packages had it and the low fluid indicator is located right beside the check engine light on the warning light cluster. The XJ donor I used had it so I'll be able to hook up the sensor from my 97+ washer tank. It's power source comes from, of all places, the radio fuse. :cheers:

Outstanding Job. :thumbsup: I'm sure your still working the details but the only suggestions that I would have is when you finalize the format that you want, make the sticky a locked thread. That way you just have the MJOTM post. This will keep it neat and you would be able to see all of them as the year goes on. Make sure there is a link to their build thread so people can go to it and comment on it. And lastly, you may want to create a Mod photobucket account just to put the pic's for this in. That way if the owner accidently moves something around or deletes a pic in their account, it won't affect the MJOTM thread. :cheers:

:clapping: Outstanding improvement.

I've got you all beat. I hit a bat one time. Now before you laugh and say that's not too impressive. If you have ever seen a bat fly you know it has insane agility. They are not easily hit. It bent at least a dozen or so fins on my radiator. :D :cheers:

97+ are different due to the fender flares. They will fit but will leave a gap around the wheel opening. Best bet is to find a 96 XJ in the JY that still has good ones. I've seen them on Ebay from time to time. Since they are the same as the XJ's, dealership may still have them. :dunno: :cheers:

Check the vacuum valve thingy(sorry, don't know what it's called) under the dash on the drivers side of the air box. That moves the flapper thingy inside of the box to direct where the air should go. They may be bad or just bound up. When you had the box apart you may have mis-aligned it or put it on wrong by mistake. Un-hook the arm and see if you can manually shift the air flow. :cheers:

Yea, I wasn't 100% positive that it was just the wagoneers. Good to know though. :thumbsup: :cheers:

This thread should have been deleted two pages ago. :shake:

I have yet to see anyone do it but that doesn't mean it can't be done. I know the inner door behind the interior panel is different between the two. The 97+ doesn't have near as many clips to hold it on so you would have to make holes for those. I don't believe it has a hole where the pre 97 handle would go so you would have to cut that out. The linkage for the handle would probably need modified. The window crank shouldn't be to hard to deal with. While your at the JY look at them both and see if you think it's possible or too much work. :cheers:

Ten slots it is. This was off an 86 MJ Some of the early XJ's had the, what I call the Black Jack grill, 21 slots. Then of course you have the waggy grill which doesn't have any vertical slots. :cheers:

Those are bad@ss. They are diesel powered.

Will this work on the pre-91 4 bangers? I know you would have to replumb the hoses but what about actually fitting the head? :cheers:

Very Cool. :thumbsup: Just take the proper precautions when blasting it. It's a good chance, that is a lead base paint. :ack: :cheers:

:rotfl2: I think thats what was happening when I edited my first post 2 times. I went to dinner and then woke up a few more to realize I was still screwed up. I forgot you have an HO era MJ. I was wondering if the relay mod I posted would work on the HO setup. I don't have any wiring diagrams from those to bounce it off of but you did mention the HI beam kill signal. I know with your setup it won't but someone with the stock setup may be able to take advantage of it. :cheers:

Thanks but since I'm using the XJ's wiring harness and circuit for the rear defogger, I have to use the switch as well. It has a different connector for the switch and is rated for a lot more juice than the factory cargo light would pull. Since I found the combined fog/cargo bezel, which seems to be the hard part, I'm good. I'm still on the fence about what kind of lights to use. I've seen the LED flat strips by 3M but they are pricey. Could go the streetglow option but if I catch the wrong state inspector and he finds them, I'll have to remove them or fail inspection. Also thought maybe using 2 to 3 LED cluster lights on each side; front, middle, and rear. :dunno:

How is splicing one wire complicated? :D So what gauge wire and size relay did you use on those 100w lamps? The factory wiring coming out of the relay is 14 gauge on the hot side to the lamps and 16/18 on the neg side. According to the table on the link below, it should be ok for the increase. However, if you think you need to increase to be on the safe side, you only should have to increase the output side of the relay which is located right behind the header panel. http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm I was always tought if you let the magic smoke out of electronics, they won't work right afterwards. :cheers:

Look at it again and realized that the diode between pins 3 and 1 would still backfeed the low beams. :doh: It would actually take two diodes. One from pin 3 to the fog lamp wire coming from pin 1 and another from the fog lamp wire to pin 1 preventing the backfeed of power. Probably would be easier to just do the splice bypassing the dimmer switch all together. :cheers: