mfpdm

If you have the stock wiring and relay for the fog lights you may try what the TJ's do by bending or using a piece of electrical tape to cover a pin on the relay. Here's a couple of links. http://www.tmar.net/fog_lights.htm http://www.getahelmet.com/jeeps/tech/fogrelay/ Not sure if the Renix era would be different as I haven't looked at the wiring for both to figure it out. Piece of electrical tape should tell you pretty quick. EDIT: Well, just looked at the wiring for the 97+ XJ's and it seems the pin they are bending is a trigger coming from the highbeam side of the light itself. After looking at the 88 MJ wiring, the relay is cut out of the picture by the dimmer switch all together so I doubt this mod will work with the Renix era wiring. 2nd EDIT: A diode between pins 1 and 3 on C177 should work, as it would allow power to the fogs when the high beams are selected by the dimmer switch. :cheers:

Thanks all. Good ole Navy training tought me that way. :D My helping hands was a $6 splurge at HF. I like the magnafying glass which also has a LED light. Can't see as good as I use too. :shake: :cheers:

:clapping: Nice score. :thumbsup: Those should clean up real nice. The seat back is easier to get off and on too. But you know one thing leads to another. Now you have to get the matching door panels. :D :cheers:

No doubt, but he ask for the going rate on MJ buckets complete with factory floor brackets in better than average condition, not what he could put together. Original parts will always be more and you'll always pay for convenience. Add desire in there and that's what drove my price. I've put my share of 2dr Xj buckets on MJ bench brackets and will probably do it again in the future but, I would prefer OEM also for the self satifaction of having original parts. :cheers:

I know the seats your after and the price is right for them. I've seen the brackets(floor mounts and sliders) alone go for that and higher on ebay. I was going to say before I found them that if a set in good condition with floor brackets not rusted, seats tilt the way they should and have all the trim, $150 -200 would be ok. It really depends on how bad you want them and how long you have waited to find a nice set. If your patient like me, I try to get things as cheap as possible. :D :cheers:

:rotf: Busy playing ROR :rotf: :cheers:

Learned that one the hard way. :doh: Also after fighting the engine tranny and tcase out of the donor, I agree with dropping the tcase then pulling or when putting it back in. :cheers:

Wait a minute. This thread is "what did you do to your MJ today?" Those are for your XJ. :no: Just giving you crap as there's nothing better to do. :D I frankly couldn't care what you post in here. :thumbsup: :cheers:

PM sent :cheers:

PM sent :cheers:

Like Boilermaker pointed out it is possible to just swap the pins. If you have the HO mj rear harness I would probably go that route as well. That's why I didn't put a table together for the HO to HO swap. The renix rear harness C118 connector of the MJ will plug into the C118 connect or the XJ dash harness if you move the pins around but you will still need to splice the six wires from the MJ C157 connector. A lot less I know but in my build I've tried to make everything so you can revert back to all original parts with no trouble. If something was to happen to the dash harness or dash itself, I could literally swap the whole thing out in about 30-45 minutes. Same with the rear harness. The pigtail, since I made it to tuck up out of the way, puts the wiring in the original locations. I've annotated the pic below just in case there was confusion with the original pic in the writeup. There still is extra wiring, but it is not a factor and is completely out of the way. The power otions were pointed out as well so you wouldn't think those were part of the pigtail. If your worried about doing the splices, you could also build the pigtail by getting the pins for the connectors and just crimp them on the wires. I'm sure they could be found at the stealership for a good penny. All in all there are various ways to do this, this happens to be the route I took and figured I'd share what I did. The important thing from the whole writeup is the pinouts and tables anyhow. :cheers:

Well this topic comes up quite a bit on here so I figured I'd write it down and hopefully simplify it for some. Common swap for a lot of us is to use a donor XJ when upgrading from a 4 banger or when replacing a corroded fuse panel. Only thing is, the XJ's dash to rear harness is not a plug n play affair for the MJ's. I've pinned out all the plugs on both and made a simple chart so you can see which wires go where. Here's the pin outs for the XJ dash harness connectors.(Renix Era) Connector C118 (Black) 1 Park Brake Switch (Gray/Red) 2 Interior lamps (Pink) 3 Stop lamps (Light Blue/Black) 4 Rear park/marker/license lamps (Dark Blue) 5 RH rear turn lamp (Brown) 6 Fuel sending unit (Tan) 7 Backup lamps (Brown/White) 8 Door jam switch (Black/White) 9 LH rear turn lamp (Gray/Black) 10 Seatbelt switch (White) Connector C119 (Gray) 1 Speaker right rear return (Black) 2 Speaker right rear feed (White/Black) 3 Center console lamps (Orange/Black) 4 Rear wiper relay (Green/White) 5 **Wagoneer stop lamps** (Light Green/Black) 6 Speaker left rear return (Brown/White) 7 Speaker left rear feed (Green/White) 8 Defogger grid (Brown/White) 9 Rear wiper (Yellow/Black) 10 Fuel pump (Pink/Black) Pin outs for the MJ rear harness connectors.(Renix Era) Connector C118 1 Speaker right rear return (Brown) 2 Speaker right rear feed (White/Blacke) 3 Center console lamps (Orange/Black) 4 Ground G102 (Black) 5 B-pillar lights (Pink) 6 Speaker left rear return (Brown/White) 7 Speaker left rear feed (Green/White) 8 Cargo lamp (Pink/White) 9 Door switch (Black/White) 10 Seatbelt switch (White) Connector C157 A RH stop/turn lamp (Brown) B Side marker/park/tail/license (Dark Blue) C Fuel sender unit (Tan) D Backup lamps (Brown/White) E LH rear stop/turn lamp (Gray/Black) F Fuel pump (orange) Table for Renix XJ dash harness and Renix MJ harness. * Pin 4 on MJ C118 is G102. This ground should be connected under the dash with the one already there under the light switch. ** Pin 8 on MJ C118 is for the cargo light. No direct XJ match. # Pin 3 on XJ C118 connects to pin 5 on XJ C119. This will provide proper wiring for the brake lights. + Pin 1 on XJ C118 needs to be attached to the E-brake switch " Pin 4,8, and 9 on XJ C119 are not needed. NOTE: Some wire colors may have changed a little but the pin number should be the same function. Also, when a wire passes through a connector, it sometimes, adds a tracer but should be the same main color Here is the pin outs for the HO harness. (Thanks to Boilermaker's post here: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10143) 92 XJ Gray body connector (wire colors in parentheses): pin 1 (db/or) Speaker return right rear pin 2 (db/wt) Speaker feed right rear pin 3 (or/bk) panel illumination pin 4 (bk) ground pin 5 (pk) courtesy lamps pin 6 (br/lb) speaker return left rear pin 7 (br/yl) speaker feed left rear pin 8 pin 9 (yl) switched ground pin 10 (lg) seat belt switch pin 11 (br/rd) rear wiper run pin 12 (wt) rear wiper park pin 13 (or/vt) lock relay pin 14 (pk/wt) unlock relay pin 15 (vt/yl) security alarm liftgate pin 16 (pk/or) keyless arm input 92 XJ Black body connector (wire colors in parentheses): pin 1 (dg/tn) Fuel Pump pin 2 (tn/dg) Right Rear Turn Signal pin 3 (db/rd) Parking Lamps pin 3 (db/rd) Parking Lamps pin 4 (db) Fuel Gauge pin 5 (br/lg) Backup Lamp Signal pin 6 (lg/bk) Left Rear Turn Signal pin 7 (gy/or) Brake Pressure Warning SW/ Park Brake Light pin 7 (gn) Brake Pressure Warning Switch pin 8 (bk/rd) Rear Defogger pin 9 pin 10 (bk/wt) Rear Washer Feed pin 11 (wt/tn) Stop Lamps pin 11 (wt/tn) Stop Lamps pin 12 pin 13 pin 14 pin 15 (db/or) Illuminated Entry Signal pin 15 (dg/or) Right front door security pin 16 (lg/or) Left front door security Table for a HO dash harness and MJ (Renix Era) rear harness. + Pin 7 on XJ Black connector needs to be attached to the E-brake switch. * Pin 11 on XJ Black connector, need to run a wire to pin P on the turn signal/hazard switch.(11 pin flat connector on lower steering column) This will provide proper wiring for the brake lights. ** If you have a cargo light, you'll have to run a wire from the switch to pin 8 on MJ C118. NOTE: Some wire colors may have changed a little but the pin number should be the same function. Also, when a wire passes through a connector, it sometimes, adds a tracer but should be the same main color You can accomplish the wiring a couple of different ways. Cut and splice the wires. Down side to this is if you have to replace either harness, you'll have to cut and splice all over again. Or, you can make a pigtail using the old harnesses connectors. This method allows for a plug n play swap later if you have to replace either harness or if you go back to all MJ specific ones. The later of the two is what I did. Here's a couple of pics. I pulled the two rear connectors from my donor XJ and the two dash connectors from my 2.5 L MJ dash harness. I then used the Troubleshooting wiring guides for the MJ and XJ to pin them out and label them. XJ's MJ's As you can see, I labeled both sides with what it was and where it should go. It was a little time consuming but save me from going back and forth to the paper I put the pin outs on and was a good way to double check everything. I then laid them all out and just taped the ends together so I could test fit it in the truck to make sure I had enough wire or to cut out if it was too much. Out came the helping hands and soldering iron. I stripped the wires and tin then with solder. WARNING: Make sure you put the shink tube on before you connect the wire ends together. Then using a couple of pair of needle nose pliers, I held the wires together with one and twisted them together with the other. Used my helper and then soldered them together and put the shrink tube over and shrunk them. Once I had all the soldering done I taped the harness up and here is what I have. Here's what everything is. I'm using the rear defogger from the XJ to run my LED cargo lights that will be installed later under my bedrails. Since I'm using that circuit, I'll never have to worry about them being left on as that circuit is a timed circuit and only stays on for about 15 mins. Here is the pigtail installed in the truck. All the connectors except one is tucked up above the e-brake which was a necessity for me having all the power options for the doors. This will allow me to get the kick panel on and have the e-brake function as it should. NOTE: I have not done an HO harness, just the table above. I used the pin outs and put them where they should go. Hopefully this will ease some of the frustration of doing your wiring project. I will post some helpful wiring diagrams later if I can get my scanner working. :cheers:

I pointed out the major problem you may incounter in the write up. If you have wide selection to choose from, you could mix and match the best parts to make a good set. The frames tend to be pretty rugged so find a good frame, check the seat back release cables to see if they are broke or if they just need the zip tie replaced, and make sure the side metal wings are solid. Good luck. :cheers:

Finally tackled the wiring from the XJ dash harness to MJ rear harness. Will do a write up later but basically I took the rear plugs from the XJ and matched them up with the dash plugs from the MJ and made a small harness(pigtail) that I could plug in to whats in the truck. Put it in. It tucks away nicely. :thumbsup: Most of the connectors are well above the E-brake out of the way. In case your wondering about the cargo light thing mentioned in the pic above. Plan is to do LED lighting under the bedrails. I'm going to use the switch and relay from the XJ's rear defogger. This will make sure that I'll never drive down the road with the lights on for miles and miles or leave them on and kill the battery. The circuit is a timed circuit and only stays on for around 15 minutes. Can be turn off with same switch. Also thinking about wiring them to the door switches so they come on and off with the door opening. I'll figure that out later. :cheers:

:agree: Had also thought maybe splitting the classifieds into sub sections would make it more user friendly. I think the three below would cover all the bases. 1. For Sale 2. Want to Buy 3. Craigslist / Ebay / Other listings I think the WTB section would be a real help especially. It seems because of the fewer amount of them verses the other two, they get pushed down pretty quick. Just my thoughts. :cheers:

The 5.0 injectors are basically the same as 4.0 with the exception that they have 4 holes vs 1 that spray the fuel into the cylinder. They should perform better and give a small increase in gas mileage. They come from Precision Auto Injectors and are rebuilt and flow matched. Look here at their web site. http://www.precisionautoinjectors.com/main.sc They list on ebay all the time. Got mine right at $100. :cheers:

Looking great and nice score on the disc brakes. :thumbsup: Was kind of wondering exactly what you meant by this; I'm assuming that by parallel that your talking about where the leaf lays on the perch and not that you put it just in the same position on the tube on the opposite side. I'm sure you know the XJ and MJ perches are different distances apart. :cheers:

I hate to say it, but your right. :oops: Here's some pic's of the motor to tie you over till I do something. :thumbsup: Only have to put the valve cover and oil pan gaskets on and a few other odds and ends here and there. Then it will be ready to go in. Here you can see the 5.0 injectors from Precision Injectors. :thumbsup: More to come. :cheers:

Few things to update. Been working on finishing the 96 booster upgrade. I wanted to go with the 96 brake pedal so I wouldn't have to worry about getting a sleeve for the booster rod on the original pedal. Still had to mod the 96 pedal to accomendate the cruise control vacuum switch. Here is both pedals side by side. 96 on bottom. The 88's pedal has the brake switch that contacts the booster rod and the cruise control vacuum switch on the pedal assembly. The 96 pedal has the brake switch and cruise control switch combined. Basically, I figured the easy fix would be to drill out the hole beside the 96 switch and put the cruise control switch there. Then I took a piece of aluminum angle stock and made a way to press and release the cruise control switch by bolting it to the brake pedal. Welding a piece of angled steel would be better but I had to use what I had, and lacking a welder made my decision. Pedal and booster back in the truck. Left the master cylinder off so I can bench bleed it before putting it in. Finish putting the rear speakers in. Cut a couple of pieces of rubber and used 3M adhesive to put them behind the speakers to help cut down on reverb. Put the Infinity's in and they sound great. I'm thinking I may put in a small sub that I can put in the storage area of the console like the TJ's have. Here's a couple of pic's of things I've done and haven't posted in here. Did a speaker grill mod to accomendate the tweeter cone on the door speakers. Basically I added a spacer made from another speaker grill to give me the 1/4 inch I needed. Write up can be seen here. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=17006 Also did the 97+ shifter mod with ZJ handle. Here's the write up on that. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=19050 Got the 2dr XJ buckets cleaned up and repaired. Here's that writeup. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18813 Few other odds and ends Cleaned up an painted the Altenator Have put most of the aux.s back on the motor. Will post pic's of it soon. Inch by inch and step by step, it will get there. :cheers:

If it turns out you need to replace the linkage or the motor, come on over and I'll give you the whole assembly. Think I have 3 or 4 in my pile of parts. By the way, wheels look good. :thumbsup: :cheers:

I think that ya'll are being a little harsh on this. Yes $1800 is a little high but you would only give $500? It appears to be a rust free body. How many would pay $500 alone for a rust free body regardless of drive train? Forget the truck and say you were shopping for a winch. How much would you pay for a used 12000lb winch? $300 maybe? New it was what $600-700. How bout a winch bumper. $150-300 maybe? Buy a set of used 33" tires with good thread for around $200. Set of axles geared with 4.10's. $300 Bushwacker flares run around $380 new so $150 used would be fair if they're not damaged. Running used drive train is at least $200. Not saying add all that up and there's your price but if you parted it out, that's what you could expect to pull from it. I'd say if you got it for around $1000, you could use what you wanted off of it, swap all the aftermarket parts back to stock, then resale it as a running MJ with minor issue for $600-800. Just my opinion. :cheers:

Three words, REAR WINDOW RUBBER. :cheers:

:agree: I'm glad you put this in there, Your warning should have said, WARNING, TOO Long. :D Us short attention span... Oh look a bug is crawling... Did I lock the back door....Raining cats and... Oh crap the dog is outside. :cheers:

Yep, just another dream machine that will never see production of any kind. Remember the Huricane? It's funny, if you look at their concepts back to 98, they all have the common theme of big tires and a chopped top. I think it kind of looks like the concept that Hummer did a couple of years ago. There was also another Jeep concept from the 70's or 80's that looked similar but I can't find the pic of it. If I remember correctly, it was yellow and sitting on a beach. :cheers:

Actually there is three, but who's counting. :dunno: Not trying to make waves but I've seen other threads in the classifieds locked because they wouldn't follow the rules. :cheers: