mfpdm

You can get a set of coils from an Up Country XJ or V8 ZJ that will give you about an inch of lift up front. You'll still need to get a longer shackle in the rear. :cheers:

When I built my additional garage, I insulated it better than my house. It's completely finished and my garage door is insulated as well. Both the door going outside and the door leading to the other garage are heavy insulated steel doors. I use a small electric radiator type heater and it does just fine. In fact, it is warmer than the house most of the time. I keep it on a low setting 24/7 just to keep it in the 60's. It is more effiecent to keep it warm than to turn it off an crank it up on high to warm it up from 30 or 40 degrees. When I'm working out there, I crank it up a little if needed. My other garage is inbetween the new garage and the house and it never gets warm in there due to lack of insulation. One day I'll correct that. I know it gets a lot colder up north, but I wouldn't rule out an electric heater. I figure mine cost me probably about $10 to $30 a month depending on the outside temp. :cheers:

Going to the JY and finding all the XJ's that had good interior parts, that is until, some jackass destroyed the dash and center console to get the damn radio out and shifter boot. Out of 8 today, all looked like they had a "No Tool Day" this weekend and they let 12 year old holagans loose in the lot with a prize to the one who could do the most damage. :mad: :fs1: :wall:

I was just about to tell you Colorado is not in the south but, I guess it would be for you :Canadaflag: . :D :cheers:

It sucks when you get all excited about something and then after a couple of days, reality sits in and your all bummed out. I've been looking for an XJ as a DD and find the perfect one every day just to be let down when I actually see it. Anyhow, if your really heart set in getting one, I suggest like someone said over there and head south and get a clean one. Here's one in NC that looks like it was a garage queen. 67,354 on the ticker. http://eastnc.craigslist.org/cto/1549973803.html Another one not as nice but it's still looks good. http://fayetteville.craigslist.org/cto/1546062000.html Either one of these could be had for a little more or less than you were ready to lay out for yours. :cheers:

PM sent. :cheers:

I read it somewhere and for the life of me can't find it again, but supposively, all 242 equiped XJ's had the larger u-joints because of the full time 4X4. Someone correct me if I'm :nuts: :cheers:

Crinkly paint usually is a result of humidity. At least thats what has happen to me more times that I would have liked during my build. Only thing that sucks worse is painting and the temp hits the dew point. Fogs it every time. :shake: I wish I would have keep the old oven. I would have hooked it up in the garage to bake painted parts and could even powdercoat small stuff. :D :cheers:

You down in Ft Bragg? If so, this guy at this craigslist link use to have a comanche he was parting. Don't see it now but he still may have it. It had an engine fire but the bed was ok. http://wilmington.craigslist.org/pts/1536945171.html Far as the options, your best bet IMO is to find a good donor XJ and just swap everything over. Curious, you said it had a AX-15/np242 tcase. Unless it has been swapped, the tcase should be a np231.

I used engine primer and enamel that is good up to 500 degrees. If it's getting hot enough to blister that paint, you have bigger things to worry about. The only thing that got the 1200 degree paint was the header. Don, did you bake yours after you painted it? Just curious as all the high temp(1200 degree paints) that I saw required you to bake it up to 300 degrees for two hours or so. :dunno: There is a process for headers that I have to do when I finally get the motor up and running to cure it without baking. Wife wouldn't let me put it in the new oven. :no: :cheers:

Tell the guy to call you in a couple of weeks when he's tired of all the tire kickers and low ballers calling him and you'll give him $1500 and the satisfaction that it's going to a good home. :cheers:

:agree: Even though the valve cover shouldn't get too hot, and most primers are good to about 200 degrees, play it safe and use the high temp primer. Afterall it's only a little bit more. Just remember that it's the prep work that makes a good paint job. :thumbsup: :cheers:

PM sent. :cheers:

PM sent. :cheers:

I really don't see how. From what I gather from the instructions it works off a signal from the A/C. You might be able to rig a switch in there but who knows. I wouldn't waste the time with it. You would be better off finding the FSM that covers the wiring for the police package and using it to wire something up. I would assume that those were all 4.0's though. :cheers:

I've been burnt a couple of times due to similar things. I now watch people like a hawk when signing over the title. Oh, and my earlier post was in no way meant to pull away from the value of the gem you have found. :cheers:

I've actually have been able to reach up in there with the grille off(or the complete header, it's been awhile) and with a pair of pliers, pulled the rod connecting the two sides, and released the latches. :cheers:

I knew I should have done the HO swap. :fs1:

You made a good assumption. It's an 8mm(5/16th will work). :thumbsup: One thing to check. My pedal assembly is from an auto so look at yours to see if the holes are there for it. Should be but better safe than sorry. :cheers: EDIT: Just looked at the manual pedal assembly I have and the holes are there. Also learned why it has two holes for the switch. The right one is for manual and the left is for auto. :D

Yep, if you don't have cruise the cable is one piece. You've got a couple of options. Fish your arm up from the bottom and undo the cable, or remove all the screws, and working from the left side of the cluster, unhook the electrical connectors and then fish your arm in from the left side and unhook the speedo.(If you have gorilla arms, forget this one) Last thing is you can unhook the speedo cable from the t-case and fish some slack up through the firewall so the cluster will come farther out and remove it that way. Putting it back on is alot easier than getting it off. :cheers:

The bracket for the Renix era pedals is a bolt on. Just pick one up at the JY when you get the later brake switch. Pic below you can see the screw holding it on at the left side of the pic.(right side of actual pedal assembly) As far as the high pedal goes. Most the times I've read about this was because the person either used the wrong year booster or forgot the spacer plate that goes between the booster and the firewall. I've not had personal experience with the WJ booster, but according to the link below, his ended up lower. :dunno: http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes ... 3/booster/ :cheers:

Well if someone does want one, they can have mine for $20 shipped.(Shameless plug :brows: ) :cheers:

Here's a good link that should answer all question about doing the swap using an XJ booster. http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/te ... pgrade.htm The 96 XJ swap is pretty much a bolt in affair with just a few things you need to consider. You don't need to flatten the rod, just use the later brake switch and put it in the hole that the cruise control vacuum release switch would go. That is unless you have the cruise control. When I did the swap, I also swapped the pedal assembly to bypass using the ID to OD spacer and so I could use the Renix era cruise control vacuum release switch. Just had to do a slight mod to the pedal assembly which you can see here. :cheers:

I use Purple Power on just about everything. It's an industrial strenght degreaser and can be found at most autoparts stores, Target, Walmart, etc. You just need to be careful on some surfaces because it will remove paint. Follow the mixing instructions and make sure you rinse it off good. When doing my door panels, I tried to make sure not to hose down the backing too much. I generally use a soft to medium bristle brush depending on what I'm cleaning and do the apply scrub rinse, apply scrub rinse method. :cheers:

Keep it stock and as someone else pointed out, upgrade the things that will improve it but not change the looks. Keep it out of the SALT. But, the other part of the brain is saying V8 sleeper. :evil: Why not? Someone explain this to me. Mileage doesn't change the fact it's a 20 year old truck. What's the difference in this or driving a new wrangler off the lot and the next week it sitting on 4in of lift and bigger tires. I guess that it wouldn't be a new wrangler anymore like it would if it wasn't modded. :dunno: Unless you do something that can never be reversed, I don't think it would make a difference.