mfpdm

You don't see many of these around. Some hate it, some like it. :dunno: http://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/1520424151.html :cheers:

I never got around to playing with them and sorry to say I can't remember who I sold them to. :fool: I believe they tried them but said because of the bend, they changed the caster angle. :dunno: I'll see if I can find the thread. However, if you are looking for a stock replacement on the cheap, search the want adds, craigslist, etc, for someone selling or giving away their stock arms from a TJ. Same ones found on the MJs just a few years newer. :cheers: EDIT: Here's the thread talking about trying the uppers viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15567&hilit=+upper

Here's the pin out from my 86 with the 97+ header. Colors may vary a little between years and due to my eye sight. :D But this should get you done. :cheers:

Would be nice but the connectors are different so the pins from the older will not go into the newer. Also if you ever decide to go back to the original, your doing the wiring again. Fraid not. That would be too simple. The Thing about the 97+ is that they used a wire for each sides functions verse the earlier combined what wires they could, ie grounds. here's a bigger pic from my thread above that may help you out. You'll notice that some wires from the old connector have two wires from the new connector attached to it. I basically set them side by side and figured what did what. If the son comes home soon, I'll go get the wiring pin out for you and post it. Then all you have to do is figure out if you just want to splice them or get the connectors as I did. :cheers:

I took the opposite sides of each harness and made a jumper harness which allows you to unplug the original harness if needed. I never like splicing into my original harness if I don't have to. You can see it here. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11270 :cheers:

I saw 2 1/2 MJ's today. One in the garage, one on the street, and half of one in the back yard. :D :cheers:

He replace the idler pulley, he's talking about the bearing for the fan pulley thats appears to be non-replaceable. Or are you saying that it's the same as the idler one. :dunno:

Like the sound of that 40 Pat. I've been debating on it but I think that is the one for me. :thumbsup: It's been probably 20 years since I last played in the snow. Looks like fun. Took a minute to figure out what the heck you were doing to the fender wells but I see now, major difference in clearance. :cheers:

:agree: That pulley as you know is part of the AC bracket. My parts list does not show a separate number for just the bearing. The assembly # is 5300 2901. Might be had at the dealership but I would say it would be pricey. If your fan belt is moving on that pulley, than I would suspect the bearing is shot cause it is no longer spinning true. When you have the belt off, see if you can move the fan pulley up and down any. From what I've seen and read on the mechnical fan removal and using electric fans, they always left that pulley and just removed the fan. If you think there may be a slight possibility that the fan is causing it, just remove the four nuts holding it to the pulley and run the engine for a couple minutes to find out. Just be sure to put those four nuts back on to keep the pulley from falling off. :cheers:

Since they are checking all your fluids, might as well get them to rotate the tires. :D But Seriously, best wishes go out to you for a speedy recovery. :thumbsup: :cheers:

Just notice that all his pic's are gone from his post. :redX: Pic's are even gone from his website in his sig. Last log on was Friday the 13th in Nov. Anyone heard from him? :???:

Yes you can put Cherokee seats into your MJ. Not a direct bolt in but not too hard either. They later years, starting in 94 I think take a lot more work to get them in. You want to try and find the 2dr type as they fold forward but the 4dr's will work as well. Here's a couple of links that will help. Making XJ buckets work in a MJ Bucket seat restoration and repair. (Lots of Pics) Edit: By the way, Welcome to the club. :cheers:

what bolts are you refering to my friend? The four reverse torx in the tilt collar. :cheers:

So now that we know you made it ok, post some pic's up of that thing you came all the way down here to get. :D Sorry we didn't get a chance to meet up. :oops: But I know you were on a time table. Or, you just didn't want me to see what a good deal I passed up. :doh: :cheers:

I haven't had any experience with the cross body harness for the HO era's. I do know that for the Renix era one, I had to swap a few wires around on the drivers side to control the passenger side functions. I used a 4dr drivers side door harness though which is why I had to move them around to match up to the 2dr switch bezel. Since I left the XJ HO to MJ HO chart off the original post, here it is. MJ HO harness pinouts.(Again, Thanks to Boilermaker's post) 92 MJ Black body connector (wire colors in parentheses): pin 1 (dg/tn) Fuel Pump pin 2 (tn/dg) Right Rear Turn Signal pin 3 (db/rd) Parking Lamps pin 3 (db/rd) Parking Lamps pin 4 (db) Fuel Gauge pin 5 (br/lg) Backup Lamp Signal pin 6 (lg/bk) Left Rear Turn Signal pin 7 (br/yl) Speaker Feed Left Rear pin 8 (br/lb) Speaker Return Left Rear pin 9 (yl) Switched Ground pin 10 (pk) Courtesy Lamps pin 11 pin 12 pin 13 (db/or) Speaker Return Right Rear pin 14 (db/wt) Speaker Feed Right Rear pin 15 (lg) Seat Belt Switch pin 16 (or/bk) Panel Illumination Table for XJ HO dash harness to MJ HO harness. + Pin 7 on XJ Black connector needs to be attached to the E-brake switch. * Pin 11 on XJ Black connector, need to run a wire to pin P on the turn signal/hazard switch.(11 pin flat connector on lower steering column) This will provide proper wiring for the brake lights. Not sure on the cargo light as his pinout doesn't have it listed. :cheers:

I don't think my son has ever used it. :shake: Or the USB and Aux in as well. :cheers:

If you got geniune replacements for these, then you forked out some cash. With that said, I'd pull the vent window and put them in the right way. There is actually two things in the channel that keep it in place. At the lower end, there is a little stud looking thing that holds it. Here it is without the felt. And here you can see it with the felt in. At the top, there is a little nub sticking out to prevent it from sliding up as well. When I do this, I roll the window down until I can get access to the nut that holds the window onto the regulator, removed it, let the window slide down to the bottom of the door, out of the way. Then removed the window wipes and trim. Next, onto the two torx head screws at the top of the vent window, and removed the one bolt at the bottom(10mm I think). Pull the vent window out. Replace all the rubber and wipes, then reverse the process to put it all back together. You'll put the trim on last. I've done this several times and have plenty hanging around. Don't forget to put the window back in the channel while putting the vent window back in. :cheers:

mine hang but work too! and I'm loving the color combo in the interior..keep it how it is!! Yeah, I guess I need to update this thread with some new pic's. I've finally went ahead and painted the rear pieces black and pulled the carpet and replaced it with a gray one I got out of the JY. I pulled the rear window and put it in the Wild build and put a 4 pane slider in it. Also dropped the cap off of it. This truck really doesn't get to much love as it was really bought for parts and just happen to start up. :D

Basically, I can either use a strap to the axle to limit how far it can flex or, what I'm thinking, is maybe using a length of chain on the bolt going through the spring and shackle that will be bolted or welded behind the shackle onto the frame which, will still allow it to flex but, it will limit it's forward motion to prevent the shackle from inverting. Have also though of a rubber bump stop that would fit on the forward side of the shackle to limit it that way as well. So as I do whatever it is I'm thinking, I'll do a write up and post it in the DIY section. Although, my build is really a DD and really wouldn't need to worry about this but, better safe than sorry. Oh, Pete, I forgot that I sold the good set of shackles I had. My other set will need the bushings replaced as well. :doh: :cheers:

If it was the very last one that rolled off the line with documentation to prove it and it was unaltered, maybe. But I'd say it's a nice, $7-8K truck. You could pick up this 92 off ebay for way cheaper and have it repainted. It has been in an accident sometime in it's life though. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-199 ... sQ5fTrucks Build date looks like 1-92 :cheers:

Mileage is probably right seeing it was a plow truck. More than likely they just used it for that purpose and garaged it the rest of the time. It looks well taken care of. Someone close to it should go by and take some underneath pics. :cheers:

You just have to put a limiting strap on them to keep them from inverting. I plan on doing this or I've got a couple of other ideas to prevent this as well. It's not all doom and gloom. Oh, and when I'm out digging some other parts out tomorrow, I'll check the bushings on the MJ shackles I have. If they are good, I'll just send them to you for the price of a free membership to the CC Forum. :D :cheers:

PM sent. :cheers:

PM sent. :cheers:

That's nuts :nuts: I could see it tied to the illumination for the cluster but not any kind of logic circuit. Engineers, got to love them. :shake: You just like that fact that you can say you have parts out of a porsche in your truck. :D Or is it a Chrome thing. :yes: To each his own. Unless you find the ones I posted in the JY, I doubt you'll pay what I found them online for. They are special order of something but are more than any other interior light in those things. #1. INTERIOR LAMP PN: RV-AFU4091L Desc: DISCO REAR LOAD SPACE Price: $ 39.72 / Each I may call the dealer tomorrow to see if he has a different price but I doubt it.