mfpdm

Glad I could help a brother out. Oh, not sure why you want that old existing 4cyl out of the truck. :D I was wondering when someone would bring that up. Believe me, if I had not found it used on craigslist, I doubt I would have forked out for it new. Thanks agian to all for the great comments. :cheers:

I was planning on ordering one of these. It suprises me that it will not fit as they say it is for the XJ's and MJ's. Do you think maybe it was mis-packeaged? Does it look like this, According to this site it should work. http://www.qualitymobilevideo.com/44-cr72.aspx Out of all the sites that sell it, I have not seen anyone post up a review saying it didn't fit. :dunno: Saw a ebay store that sells them and the feedback on it from a buyer did not say that they had any trouble. I'm not trying to support or defend them. I really wanted one but if it doesn't fit, I'll start checking the JY. I think I would call and have them send another one just to make sure that it wasn't just a fluke. :cheers:

Don't buy it, this is not what you think it is. I bought one just like it thinking it was the police package one and it is not. This is for the earlier XJ's that have A/C and would not idle up when the A/C was turned on. :cheers:

Well seeing how this is a dealer listing this thing, be prepared. The interior is red not black according to the listing. Should be that dark maroon which explains the red headliner hanging down. He should be able to show you the carfax or get one if you ask. It had a taligate in the first pic so where's it at in the rest? Offer him $1200 if it has no rust issues and work from there. Low mileage or high mileage only affects the price by a few hundred dollars. just remember, it's still a 20 year old truck. :cheers:

That grate thing is where the system pulls air from the cab instead of the vent.(recirc) Here you can see from the top of the heater box. Your looking through the hole that would be up against the bottom of the cowl. As pictured, it's in the vent position. The bottom is a flap and would lift up and block the opening and pull air from the cab(grate). Here you can see it in relation to the whole box. Now I thought maybe you could pull that part without pulling the dash but I really don't think it can be done. Maybe, if you just drop the dash forward. But there is only a few things to undo to separate that side of the box. There are three nuts in the engine side of the firewall. Two screws on the front interior. One screw and one clip on the bottom back interior. You will need to cut this strap(red X) and you'll need to undo the harness from the clips(red arrows) and remove the screw that holds it to the upper support(red circle). And there you have it. You separated the halfs. Now if you do happen to go through all this, you might as well have a new heater core handy and replace it since you have it open. Sorry so long and I can't really remember what it was or how I related this to your problem. :shake: :cheers:

They are welded on and the lever has a un-removeable pin. Engineers really out did themselves on this one. :shake: You figure, the only reason you would need to take the knob off, is to put a new trim bezel on. Since they never break :rotfl2: they figured it was safe to make them permanent. I figured if my trim pieces break, I would fab me up a replacement out of flat stock aluminum. Would make it look the same as the stock one except, I'd cut a slot on the backside to slide over the lever. :cheers:

Far as I know there is no tool for that. This is what I planned on doing. Using a very small diameter drill bit that will fit on the inside of that pin so you can drill through to the other side of the plastic. Basically a centering hole if you will. Then using a bit the same size as the pin to drill the plastic using your centering hole. Now you should be able to use a punch or a pair of pliers with a nail or something to push the roll pin out. Just have to be careful and take your time. Like I said, I plan on doing this so it's just an unproven idea at this point. Why do you need to get it off? :cheers:

I had trouble finding mine for the 88. Ended up using a 4dr door harness and moved some of the wires around in the plug to make it a 2dr. Basically if I remember right it was two wires. Should be a similar fix for the HO era. :cheers:

Well, I can't really pin point a date. I have in the past just to be disappointed when it came and went. I'm hoping by May this year. There is still a couple of thousand things holding it up. You know, they're green and white and have old dead guys on them. :D :cheers:

Thanks for all the compliments. :cheers: I have to say without a doubt, this build wouldn't be half of what it is without the great knowledge and support from the Comanche Club members. Thanks to Pete for keeping this board going and all the Mods for keeping it real. :thumbsup: Also thanks to all that have contributed to this build with either parts, ideas, or MJ knowledge. :cheers:

Two words, Trunk Monkey :cheers:

Just found the pic from inside the cowl area I was trying to find. :shake: The thing coming up from the bottom is the air intake I believe for the heater box. The thing above it is where the hood hinge is. If the hinge is allowing water to drip down into the intake, it would go into the heater box and find it's way to the seam at the bottom of the fan housing. If I remember correctly, you can pull that part of the heater box off without taking the whole thing out. It's a PITA but doable, I think. I'll look tomorow at the one in the shed to refresh my memory. If this is the source of the problem, there should be water stains inside the heater box. :cheers:

This might help you out a little. It's a pic of the firewall which you can see most of the holes that are there. Where you think the leak is, is where the fan housing is. The heater box has a rubber gasket around it that is suppose to seal it. Did you have the dash out? Wasn't the driver side leak from the cowl area? Was just wondering if maybe you have one on the passenger side which you would need to pull the heater box to see it. I know this is driving you nuts but you may need to pull it all out and go to town with RTV. :cheers:

As a matter of fact, yes. :yes: No, not really. Well actually, I figured a pic would better describe what I would have confused him on trying to explain it, so I ran out to the garage to snap a quick one. I just knew I had one laying around and wouldn't you know it, out of six of them, not one had the lamp holder. So I had to take out the one in the truck as it was now a mission to get the pic. :shake: :cheers:

These are handy and seem to work well but I wouldn't say it is a good a what you could do with a soldering iron. The thing that concerns me is you can't control the solder flow. Also, solder generally melts at 300 to 400 degrees depending on the composition of it. There are some low temp solders in the 275 degree range. Even at that temp you will cause the insulation to melt a bit. When you solder, you never melt the solder onto the metal, you heat the metal to melt the solder. Melting the solder onto the metal will give you a cold solder joint which will not be the best for connectivity and may vary the resistance at that point. Heating up the insulation to the point it losses its bond with the wire will cause small air pockets that could allow moisture to gather and further degrade your connection. These look great for quick repairs but I'll stick with my iron and solder for permanent connections. :thumbsup: :cheers:

Did you just lay the light behind it or do you have the little holder that hooks onto the lighter? :cheers:

All he has is the headlights which he put into a 97+ header. If you look at the below link, you can pause it at about 20 seconds and get a good look at it. It looks ok but could be better. :cheers:

Link still works for me. It's up in Newport News. http://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/1516614630.html

Where are you located? I've got one here in Chesapeake VA. :cheers:

How about the D35 from your first MJ? PM sent. :cheers:

You could check this one out from craigslist. http://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/1516614630.html I had looked at it back in the summer. The bed has some damage so you shouldn't feel too bad if you have to scrap it. The floor pans were bad but I've seen worst. The good, it sounded really great. I fired it right up and it had been sitting for awhile. Didn't appear to have any leaks. She has had it listed for a long time so I bet you could get her down a little on price. :cheers:

Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night. :cheers:

Even small facilities have standards. I'll agree that they will not be exactly identical but they should be within a close tolerance. When the parts don't meet the tolerance, they go in the scrap pile, not the waiting shipment shelf. When a item you make can't even be installed using the hardware you provide with it, something is wrong. Don't advertise a direct fit if a part requires a little extra to fit correctly. And yes that is RRO's new account. Here is the link to their old account that they had locked until Ebay told them to open it or not be able to sell anymore. http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.d ... TQ:US:1183 You'll notice a big difference in the volume of stuff they use to sell. Page through the feedbacks and you'll find it hard to find a page without negative feedback. I try not to get too personnal with these things but this company lied to my face, sent me parts that were not set to any standards of quality with missing and incorrect hardware, and then lied in their response to my feedback I left them. If they closed their doors tomorrow, they would not be missed by the offroading community. I'm done. :cheers:

RRO designs are usually good, it's their Quality Control and Customer Service that is a joke. Just look at the picture you posted. Image Not Found A company that makes a product should be able to make that product exactly the same time and time again like a cookie cutter. The arms in the pic should be a mirror image of each other but, they are not. I've experienced this first hand with their drop brackets. Poor quality control. Having to alter somthing that is made specifically for your truck is not what you pay for. They may have a Lifetime warranty but good luck trying to make them honor it. Search the web and you'll find alot of the same stories about them. Their negative feedback was so bad on Ebay, that they closed the account and opened a new account. 97-06. Not sure on the Rubi's and unlimiteds though, but all others should be the same. :cheers:

Can't remember who it was looking for an engine skid for a libby. http://norfolk.craigslist.org/pts/1520322502.html May be willing to pick up and ship if they won't. :cheers: