mfpdm

Yes it can cause the ratchet to not work properly. If there is nothing pulling against the ratchet than it will not engauge. At least I think that's right. The way I understand it is the one at the top holds the finger of the stop in place while the one at the bottom provides the resistance for the ratchet and release of the brake which returns the pedal up. Hope this makes sense. :cheers:

linksys and netgear are pretty much the same in my book as far as performance. The thing to consider is what is in your machine. Use to think my netgear was a POS until I bought a new laptop with a good wireless card built in. Now I can get connected anywhere in my house or yard and maintain a strong and fast connection. FWIW, I've burned up two linksys boxes due to lightning but have yet to lose my netgear one.(knock on wood) :cheers:

A lot of times when the ratchet stops working is because the spring has broke or fallen off. It's located at the top and holds resistance on the ratchet. Check that out and if it is not the problem I have one listed in the classifieds. :cheers:

Resistance plays it's part but increased rpms will do more than the resistance. An engine idling at 500 rpms will burn less gas than one idling at 900 and there is no resistance to factor in. Faster an engine goes, it requires more fuel. My TJ (same brick like design) with 33 inch tires had my engine rpm running around 2300 at 65 mph and was giving me 17-18 mpg. Changed the gearing which put me closer to stock performance but increased my rpms. So now I'm running 3000 rpms at 65 mph and only pulling 13-14 mpg. Roughly a 75 miles per tank difference. Same speed, higher rpm, lower mpg. Once you pass the "sweet spot" that the engine runs at, the rpms start eating away at your mpg's a lot faster. I'm sure there is some sort of rpm to fuel consumption curve that would explain this alot better. I've been wanting to test a theory by putting 35's on my rig which would lower rpm's, to see if I pulled better mpg even with the larger tires adding higher weight and resistance. In theory it should work. :cheers:

Well I think I can help out there. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11270 Figuring the wires out is pretty easy with them side by side. The thing about the 97+ is that they use a separate hot and ground wire for each side and the earlier years just used one. :cheers:

You know, a picture is worth a thousand words, in any language. :thumbsup: :cheers:

The best one is no longer on there. It's a Monster, was the catch phrase. Here's one that is just funny. Not a comanche, and really not a commercial, but funny anyhow. :cheers:

This board has Mods? Who would have thought. Oh I see them now. Here they are

Fixed the link. Don't know what happen there. :dunno: Here it is again just in case. http://www.techspot.com/vb/topic58138.html If everything you down load will not run, whatever you have is causing that. Start up in safe mode and install the Avira and run it. That should let you boot up normally after it runs, then go with the rest of the steps. :cheers:

It would be perfect if not for the dent on the left side (closes to the cement). Thing is, I believe whoever pulled it off, dropped it and did that. Was just laying on the ground when I found it. All in all, it's solid and rust free. :thumbsup:

Use this link, http://www.techspot.com/vb/topic58138.html It takes a little time but has not failed me yet on even the most screwed machines(not mine, usaually friends kids). Don't worry about step 8, you'll know if your clean or not. Step 1 I usually run avira and comodo. They work great and take little resources. All the rest of the steps are click to run programs, not running all the time. Personally, I think spybot is useless and just as bad as some of the stuff it's trying to get rid of. :cheers:

I don't remember, but any pics of the thunderchief? Hands down THE COOLEST, MOST B-A comanche ever. Rob L. :agree: Hard to find good pics of it anywhere.

Well, I've been working pretty long hours here lately and have had little time for anything else, including posting on here. So today I figured I'd go and relax at one of my favorite places, the JY. :thumbsup: Spent about four hours there today gathering my thoughts, helping a couple of people, and of course, pulling some parts. $60 later I left with a few items After the hard time I had with finding the rubber moulding for the rear, I figured it would be good to have a spare handy. Some of it I'll be keeping and some of it will in up in the classifieds but, it will be awhile. Heading back out of town for work. :cheers:

Yep, good upgrade indeed. Here's a DIY write-up on it. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=16386 :cheers:

Well, new job has me real busy right now. It's funny how that goes, I was unemployed with lots of time and short on funds, now I have funds but no time. :shake: Hopefully, some updates will come in a couple of weeks. :thumbsup: :cheers:

It's possible but not probable seeing how they can only go in one way because of the plug design. If they are not in all the way, that would cause some trouble. If I remember correctly, there is a small set switch to select between 4cyl or 6cyl but that should only affect the tach. It sounds like you have had it out and reinstalled it. Did you check all the ribbon circuit on the back of it to make sure nothing was fubar? Just by your discription, it sounds like there may be a short between something. When you put it back in, did you connect both connectors in tight? They should snap in pretty snug. As Eagle said, slow down and describe what you have done and what the symptoms are. :thumbsup: :cheers:

If your talking about taking the glass out of the door completely, you will need to unbolt it from the regulator and let it drop(gently) to the bottom of the door. Then you need to remove the vent window. It has one bolt towards the bottom of the door, think 10mm, and then there is two screws on the angled side of it on the door. Pull it back towards the rear of the door and then out. Now you can get the window out. :cheers:

Yes you can put it back in the right position. Easy way is to remove the nut connecting the window, lift the window up while guiding it back through the door, and spinning it around and reattaching the window. And far as the spanner wrench, before you buy one, try using a set of needle nose pliers and holding the back with your fingers. I haven't come across one yet that I couldn't get that way but I know some are pretty tight. And yes on the front door regulators. In my repair, I just used the cable (snake) from the rear doors as they are the same size (at least for the electric windows). :cheers:

There is one more thing you can check. On the regulator where the window attaches is a flat piece that, one end attaches to the window and the other end to the regulator. In its normal position, the window will be above the regulator connection. What happens is sometimes the window will get out of alignment and that piece swings around and the window will be below where the flat piece attaches to the regulator. What this causes, is basically the window is aloud to travel 2 inches farther down which will go below the rubber and then the window does not want to come back up. It will also cause the window to be hard to get closed the last inch or so when rolling it up. Hope this makes since. In this pic, the piece I'm talking about (Bottom end attached to the regulator and the hole is where the window will attach) is in the correct position. :cheers:

The ZJ also came with the 242 if I remember correctly. :dunno: Find one of them and swap it over. Best of both worlds as you can have full time or part time 4wd. :cheers:

Keep the Rubi and find a gently used 2001 Cherokee for the family. You can work on it, lift and lock it or what ever. Will come out a lot cheaper in the end. :cheers:

Oh yeah, I'd snag all the J trucks, the Model T, and the buick electra. :cheers:

With a car carrier and a pocket full of cash. Some interesting vehicles here and pretty cheap. http://www.crowleylakecampland.com/cargallery.html :cheers:

Here's the real story. BEFORE AFTER j/k :cheers:

It is the same, just labeled different. They added the power antenna onto that circuit. Just remember that there are two power sources for the radio. One powers the radio itself and the other controls the illumination. A switched and unswitched source. Also, in case your wondering, ETR stands for Electronically Tuned Receiver. :cheers: