JeepcoMJ

2 per side

I'll get one from a cherokee and make my own latch (it's centered on the vehicle and should be on the manche). another thing I will do is cut it in half and hinge it halfway so that when i put the tailgate down, I just open the tire carrier and angle it and relatch it somehow...it will allow me to load the bed completely with the tailgate down and not have a tire sticking out into the lane next to me....

don't forget, bumpstops, bumpstops, bumpstops

pics please, I have to reserve judgement until then

I'll put one on my 89 and we'll find out.

so, the 3800 is...not good. There is a bad connection on the coil packs, and no matter what I do to the connectors, it won't work...gonna have to get a new ICM for the coil packs I guess, as the connector looks great. this connection controls the fuel pump while cranking and running, as well as sending power to all the other sensors...without it, nothing will work. it has a bad main bearing on the crankshaft I believe....making some oscellating noises :nuts: and the input shaft bearing on the tranny is shot....at about 370,000 on a ax5 tranny (has been in 2 jeeps prior to mine), as well as the t-case being loose and the chain skips, 2nd gear syncro is going bad too. aaaand my front axle spiders are probably shot..., not to mention that it's bent sooo i guess i gotta fix the connection and drive it til the engine dies. hopefully it's just the input shaft on the tranny making the noise. I have a new transmission anyways for it, and an np231 t-case.

I've been thinking of putting one on the 89 manche i'm gettin... care to try it out for me so I can get a looksy? that's a wierd one...looks aftermarket.

the best way to tackle an AAl is not to do it IMO. I have AAL's and after 2 years they've sagged. my brother's lasted 20,000 miles (less than a year and a half he drives so much) before they've managed to sag to stock height. Use the other's suggestions, and then find an upgrade in the next year or two.

I'm in

nah, that's pingpong they have a problem with.

don't bother gettin the longbed driveshaft...either way you are gonna have a day or two of down-time and not be able to drive the mj. the reason for that is that you will have to cut down your ds for measurements AFTER you install the tranny and such, as prior to doing so, you have no ability to get exact measurements (I can measure my 89's rear ds for you, but it's gonna be off by an inch or two guaranteed). unless you're willing to risk "guessing" the ds length based on measurements of one from someone else's swb mj with a dana 44 rear end. I suppose you could do that and if it's not 100% right the first time, you can have your other ds changed to be right. either way, remember PROFESSIONAL is the way to go on the ds. you have no way of cutting/welding/balancing your ds to be perfect, and it's not a thing to mess with on ds strength etc.

what's the benefit. either way you get to push the brakes easier.

hey colton, put the ax5 in now. you don't have to connect the front driveshaft or the shift linkages just yet. get the 4.0 swb rear d-shaft you were talking about before the swap and make it worth your while...that way all you have to do is swap in axles, and drop the tranny crossmember enough to get the shift linkages in and hooked up. you can do that all in a day or two with a few good guys, the right tools, and proper diagnostic abilities.

still need to shorten rear ds to fit colton

I agree. if you don't want 6.5" of lift, a spring over isn't the solution. don't want add-a-leaf, then don't get it. your best bet is a cheapo spacer and shackle lift, or a lift with rusty's 4.5" rear springs and whatever 5.5" front springs and such you can get (it should be level with more of a lift up front.

They are not like power steering lines and the high pressure line can kill you if not done right. uh...thanks for the heads up. time to talk to the pros

height of old perch doesn't count in that equation. height of axle plus height of new perch plus thickness of leaf springs = lift. so if your new axle is 3.5" thick, and your perch is 1.5" thick, then you add the 1.5" (guess) thickness of your leaf pack, you now have a 6.5" lift. my guess is SOA with stock axles is about 5.5" to 6" so if you wanted some extra lift to match to the front, you'd just add a really good lift shackle (really good means tough with crossbracing AND greasable).

can i have the condom too? I'm out... :roll: J/K!

that first one is a cherokee with a comanche bed if i'm not mistaken

well, if they are anything like power steering custom hoses, I have the crimper tool so I just need the high pressure hose (if they make it), the clamps (same), and fittings.

ditch the chrome. all of it. and go black. black on green would look alot better... I REALLY like it otherwise.

where's a 3.5" micrometer when you need one?

all my hoses have to be custom. and idk what drier to use. i've got a camaro 3.8 a/c compressor, a 95 4.0 condensor (it will be changed out cause i broke the lines off and may not be able to put new lines on it), and an 86 cherokee a/c system. I have to make a 90* smooth bent bracket to fit to the back of the a/c compressor...motor mount is in the way. so should I be using cherokee parts or camaro parts? I presume it's all fairly the same...with the exception of the drier.

sure, it doesn't have a latch though...how about $10 plus shipping (under $30 combined most likely...i'll give exact quote on shipping, as i don't charge for packing etc.). pm me if that will work.

with rockers for proper function you have to redrill the brackets 5/8 outwards to mount the seat properly.