JeepcoMJ

mine has the screw pieces cracked out of it, so I put aluminum washers in it. works great!

mfpdm, i love typing jeep comanche and being able to click on all of the other versions of it on ebay. matter of fact, if I see a really nice MJ titled as a commanche or other dumb spelling, i inform the owner usually b/c i'm not buying their rig and would hate to see one go for way less than it's worth.

the fender flares? fenders are the metal part... mmm...secure them with stainless rivets or stainless bolts. don't use aluminum anything b/c it promotes rust, and don't use plain steel cause it does rust. drill a few holes and it should be easy enough

lol, yeah...i forgot. i'm doing it with both ways :D

if there was any excessive chatter/loud noises from the tranny before it stopped working, it's probably going to be the flexplate, but take off the inspection cover first and look @ the flywheel. also, replace the sensor as well before anything else....it's just 2 12mm bolts and one connector. to drop the tranny you need to drain it, unbolt the inspection cover, the torque converter (4 bolts on the back of the flexplate), the CPS, starter, tranny dipstick tube (and another bolt directly opposite of that, then the two large side bolts for the bellhousing and the 6-point bolts on top. of course, first you drain it and do the starter and front driveshaft and remove the dipstick tube (spray the joint that's in the middle of the tube with PB blaster) and use a flathead to pry on the tube mount via the bellhousing, as well as the tranny cooler lines, then unbolt the torque converter then drop the crossmember and remove it from the tranny, disconnect the wires to the tranny (right next to the top of the tranny dipstick tube). then all the bellhousing bolts and drop her down. 5 or 6 bolts hold the flexplate to the crankshaft. whenever removing a auto trans, it's always pertinent to replace the front seal (torque converter seal) because it will go bad down the road, if not right away, and you'll kick yourself for not doing it then. it's easy to remove with a small screwdriver, and you can tap the new one in nicely with a small hammer going in a star pattern. it costs $4 or so.

that system rocks! for $130 and you can use your own switches and everything, that's way wicked...and you can chose for it to shift itself or let you shift it, upshift, downshift, and lock up the torque converter. it's official, that's what I'm doing to the 89 since i have the tranny and everything already!. WOOHOO that is sweet!

hmm. I will try this on my jeep now. I've only ever done the method on tractors and mostly 6 volts at that soooyea maybe its time that I remove myself from the roots i have planted in that aspect...

pretty darn cool but the pics don't work for me http://media.putfile.com/TwoRodsBroke the vid of the 4.0 blowing was terrifyingly gut-quenching and wickedly awesome

if it runs after you put gas into it then it's either A. not the fuel pump, or B. the fuel pump is partially clogged and/or is putting out minimal pressure. now, I believe I am correct that the 86 had a electric fuel pump correct? the relay will be next to the fusebox or by the right front coil spring mount underneath the hood I believe. ...you could have something clogged and maybe a sensor not plugged in all the way, or something along those lines too? We ARE being friendly, but your initial statement didn't make any sense from a technical standpoint...I'm probing you for information and offering up suggestions to get you thinking of other possibilities too. tryin to help man :D

re-explain the current situation in steps please. i can't decipher how you are saying this. so the input line (the bigger) for the fuel system cracked. you have replaced it yes? did you just put a clamp and rubber hose over it or actually replace the bad line? if it broke, and you didn't actually replace it, of course it's not going to work. remove your fuel line again and turn the key to the on position. the pump should turn on and build pressure. if it doesn't, then your pump is bad or the pump relay is bad. please also elaborate the driving down the road part...how are you driving it with just dumping gas down into the throttle body? that is not possible as dumping the gas down does not create enough gas to run it more than a few seconds, much less drive it. this sounds like a vacuum line problem to me...to the fuel pressure regulator. should be located near your throttle body and be a little canister with one vacuum line coming out of it. that controls the amount of current sent to the fuel pump via some other gadgets. if you half-assed the fuel line of course it isn't going to run. also, if the fuel when it was "spitting out" got on any of the throttle body sensors (in them etc.), it may cause problems too.

it's the CPS not reading. but that's symptom of a cracked flexplate (automatic flywheel if you will) if the tranny wasn't shifting. has it been making a clanking/clattering sound? . either way I feel you have one of two problems...cracked flywheel or your torque converter bolts hav sheared. of course, the torque converter bolts can't be it as your engine would still run if the flexplate was rotating. it's what the crankshaft position sensor gets it's timing reading off of. a new one is about $80 shipped to bumper to bumper, but be sure that if you do need one, you get one for the same vintage of truck...a HO motor won't run off of a pre-90 flexplate and vice-versa.

NOT true. if you remove a battery terminal it kills the circuit and the engine will die. on a carbeurated motor you could probably get by with pulling the terminals but on a fuel injected system, all sensors will die and it will no longer run. do yourself a favour and remove your belts (whether serpentine or v-belt), and take your alternator to a rebuild statioin or a place like advance auto and have it tested to see if it's good. if it is, you need to fix your sensor problem because the long starts are killing your battery. also, an alternator is not meant to charge a battery from zero...doing that puts more strain on the internals of an alternator and will result in a short which will severely affect the life of your alternator. charge the battery FULLY, and test the alternator. if the alternator is good and the battery still drains, you have a short in your wiring system which is grounding out and draining it. replace your battery if it won't charge farther than 4, or try to bring it back with some new water and electrolytes. btw, testing your alternator output with a voltmeter won't show an accurate reading...it may show 13 volts but there's a difference between 13 volts and 105 amps...it will show 13 volts on less than an amp and all the way on up, hence you have no way of testing the actual output of the alternator short of bringing it in to be bench tested. that's my .02 and is .02 as passed on to me by many, many brilliant mechanics.

that makes no sense...if you pour the gas in, it wouldn't run for long. if you're pouring the gas in and it starts and runs continuously, then the lines you broke off are probably vacuum lines and should be replaced.

just one? then you'll have one baja side and one non-baja side. the fenders only replace about a foot in front of and a foot behind the wheel opening. from rusty's I believe.

blah 3 bolts hold the throttle body on. then 2 connectors for the sensors then the one hookup for the throttle system. the 3 bolts that hold it on are the same ones that hold the intake tube to the throttle body. they're torques. go to wal-mart and grab a cheap set if you need to. remove throttle body (spray bolts with pb if needed), and do it on the bench...replacing the spring will be easier there.

If you want me to wait until the other projects are done, we'll both be old and grey... haha, then do it now dammit! j/k. clear your head i'm in no hurry as me having an auto MJ is a month or two in the future...i gotta build up the suspension, front bumper, and rear bumper first before i can (meaning should) do anything with the tranny.

dirty, any info you have on Brett's shifter would be greatly apprciated if you could forward it my way (once done with your 40 other projects of course :brows: )

have a friend with a torch? another thing is that a propane tank with a torch adapter works well too, and will cost under $100 most likely. quite a functional method for heating and/or cutting in a pinch. were we closer I'd stop by with my backpack torch (gotta love the fact that grandpa builds fire-practice towers and is constantly upgrading!) and fix the problem for ya! grinder won't cut it ;) enjoy the pun

torch, torch, torch. and need I say it again, torch. if you just torch the heads off, you can then weld on a nut to the remaining stud upon removal of the box, and wrench it off after soaking it with pb blaster or lightly heating it

alright, so the truck is mine as of yesterday. it's still at his house because I was at work all day, but it's 1 mile away. I got an 87 4.0 with an aw4 that should work perfectly for $200 (dented up bad on the front). and for wheeling purposes and ease of driving, I am contemplating converting the 89 MJ to the aw4. I really don't have the time to convert it at the moment, BUT I want to plan for what i'm selling off of the xj. what should I do? this is a poll. add a suggestion if you have another idea.

hehe, DON'T do it on a diesel first of all...it WILL do worse than backfire. second, it backfires if i do it to the 3.8, and on the 2.5. so i see no reason why it wouldn't on the 4.0. good thing is is that it's non-destructive and it'll just burn off :D

all I can say is to torch all of the bolts off. be very careful and have a friend with a fire extinguisher. otherwise, you're SOL

just type in jeep cherokee cup holder on ebay and they should come up. it's a bolt-on piece that will work with your full console and simply attatches with the two screws under the flip-up lid. or out of an xj will work. the other style is actually to the right of the shifter and takes up space in the passanger side and is hard to reach from the driver's seat.

*shrug* I've seen them both on xj's and they look the same??? so i assume one or the other, but i KNOW there wasn't much market for either one. too bad cause now there is....

thats the same one that was part of the factory hidden winch system by warn. they stopped making them because jeep stopped ordering them, and no one wanted them aftermarket so it never made it very far.