JeepcoMJ

....a new split pane 4 pane rear window is 80 bucks on ebay...type in jeep comanche and search through it. very worth the $$$

the t-bird sold for 14,500 a couple weeks ago. it had a dead rat in it that got stuck in a hole cause it couldn't get it's but through the hole, and we found that it had 1 fiberglass front fender, and a broken passenger side glass on the door. the guy who bought it took it to illinois and is spending 70,000 on having it professionally restored :nuts: it's a rat-rod in my opinion...it was rust-free but they look better as resto-mods. only had 45 original miles on it though...got hit and stored then fixed in 1986 then parked again til we got it :D

uh...don't ask, i don't really know. they came off of an 87 4 cylinder i had that was running 31x11.50's stock with no trimming. they're these and they're all steel/chrome. the centers are gold colored...but i'm painting the rims black. here's the front bumper i'm building off of it's similar to Pete's and will have a brushguard much like his.

I'll be particularly proud of the seat. got my loan finalized and i get the cash on wednesday...had to have a friend co-sign cause i have only 662 credit or somethin like that. i pick it up on thursday, and the lift kit gets ordered friday. building the front bumper when i get a chance and i have to remove the rear bumper and OEM tow hitch for the guy...it's ok cause i have a tow hitch that will work. then it's time to lift, and have the 33x12.50 dayton timberline a/t's mounted on the 15x9.5 rims. put in an xj prop valve and take off the OEM jeep sidesteps (going to girsmj86) and the topper. then it's ready to drive. all the other improvements will happen later on, as I need to get this one driveable and then get the 3800 fixed. oh, gotta repair the gas tank, it leaks over half full...

it generally won't. I wouldn't try it on any exhaust application

looks GREAT john. uh..you should not attempt to drive that on the street yet for your safety. one pothole and you have no brakes.

yeah, i like the space in the bed. so i'm gonna be making a bracket that's 1 piece and allows the tire carrier to bolt to the mj's right corner and also bolts to the inner side of the bed for extra support. maybe i'll add something else

yeah you can buy a 3 core 4.0 rad for an open system

the 3.55 vs 3.54 gear isn't a problem when you put in a disco front end, you remove the vac. lines entirely...all the way back to the tranny. then you remove the tranny sending unit and replace it with a brass fitting that threads in, or you plug all the vac. holes on it. make sure you plug anything you disconnect the lines from, or run new lines just to the vac. cannister. it's easy

i know. i mean the jb won't hold to the heat of the muffler. I've NEVER had any luck with jbweld. IMO, you're best bet is to weld stuff up, OR just go buy a new muffler...they're like 40 bucks at autozone.

get a small piece of tin and weld it onto the muffler...jbweld won't hold. or weld that piece back on. welder is the best idea IMO

yeah late 80's or early 90's dakota brake line i guess. buy ones that are like 1/4" longer. if you can't find them, ask someone else on the group to get them and send them to you..put the old ones on in the meantime.

hehe, they're on the outer edges of the dash kneeboard. the "vent" slatted parts of them. the tweeters would mount there with 2 screws and a specific metal plate, which can be made easily with a small amount of bending.

I'd never reuse u-bolts. they stretch when you first put them on...they're no good anymore IMO. buy new, or consider these u-bolts temporary.

i get it on thursday! He is keeping the really nice rear bumper, and the class 3 hitch, as well as the tires/rims that are on it. i get the truck for $900, and am getting the rear bumper off the other one (in decent shape needs paint), and i have a hitch i can adapt to fit it if need be. it will get a heavy duty rear bumper so i'm not concerned about what shape the stock one is in. anyways, it has 228,800 miles on it rather than 128,000...i read it at an angle. again, i'm not concerned about that as it runs very strong already and it is all highway miles, plus the rust is virtually nonexistant. replacing a 4.0 is no big deal. :nuts: plans are to lift it 6.5 or 7 inches in the front, and SOA the rear now. my insurance company said they'd allow it as a friend who is a professional welder is gonna do the welding...what a PITA. it already has a dana 44 rear axle, which i will be angling upwards just a hair for driveshaft reasons. :cheers: then it gets a set of 33x12.50 dayton timberline a/t's that i picked up for $250 with 95% tread left. those are on a set of 15x9.5 steel rims i had that will be black. 8) a new clutch master cyl is needed, and electric spray/cleaner on the fusebox just in case. it's an ax15 with an np231 and a disco front end. the 4wd was never used on it i guess, and the vac. sending unit is stuck or it has a leak in the line (easy fix with a selectrac bypass switch...that's my plan ) i have a brushguard and a heavy duty front bumper i made for it, so it will look similar to Pete's 88 in that respect. :bowdown: swingout cherokee rear tire carrier that will still work correctly with the tailgate down is in the works :eek: rollbar from a toyo in the works :D it keeps the bench seat for obvious reasons ;) but i'm putting 2 cherokee driver's side electric slider bases on it...slaving them both to one control after i get them all matched up and mounted, but i'll add a seperate control for each one just in case it's cockeyed. that'll be some customization but will allow for alot of movement and the little higher height i'm looking for...like my rocker seats. I'm also cutting up a spare seat i have and making a fold-out armrest on the back and having that recovered to match my interior. complete with beer..er drink holder :roll: I will let everyone know how it all works out of course :D

...i just learned it was an option this last year

hornbrod, idk if alot of people even KNOW those spots exist...

a xj only cherokes if it gets something stuck in it's throught...er...intake :roll:

ok, i don't have one, but it would be in the front right corner of the bed opposite where the gas tank would be. the gas tank would be in the bed above where it should be and would be a 20 gal. fuel cell. call me crazy, but i don't want anything flammable or combustive (compressed air) anywhere where rocks could hit it and sparks could fly. the 89's gas tank is gonna be relocated to the bed, and if it gets onboard air that will be next to it, a rollcage/bar will be up in the bed too. I'd also not put the air tank in the cab...i do not wish to have a tank mysteriously blow up or decompress inside the cab next to me. again, call me crazy but... in extreme cases extreme things happen. i plan ahead

I have two for a longbed and one for a shortbed...though I kinda want to keep the sb one... shoot me a pm if you're interested

you do have a point, but I think I can fix that problem with a couple drill holes, some measuring, and a bracket behind there to reinforce it.

it would help if you said what kind of tank...

no because the cj uses a different axel

the 9 or 10 mj's that have passed through me have all had 2 keys, and the years ranged from three 86's, two 87's, one 88, two 89's, and one 91. out of all of those, i've got all three 86's still here, no 87's, one 88, one 89 (mine but not paid for yet), and i used the rest for parts to repair the others...

none with 1 key as the 1 key setup was different designed steering column. the ign key should fit in the lock cylinder...in which case you could potentially rekey it to your ignition key. IMO it's always bad to have 1 key...if they get a hold of it, they can drive away...i only keep a spare lock key on my truck in case i lock myself out or lose my keys. then you have to find the ign key completely elsewhere...