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JeepcoMJ

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Everything posted by JeepcoMJ

  1. JeepcoMJ

    Flat towing

    If anyone is looking into an ultralight helicopter powered by a turbine, let me know. my dad's friend builds them and inspects them for first flights...he bought a kit from a guy who was using snowmobile motors and retrofitted a turbine from a military helicopter's generator into it...the designer was so impressed that he bought all of the tools to make the turbines and they are now the main engine for it....i forget what the name is but they're wicked lil machines and damned reliable. even have mechanical governors (yay, no more deaths due to ELECTRONIC failure!
  2. welcome! note the one problem you will have is if you are excessively tall and tip your head to the side to drive...herman munster couldn't drive it with the speakerbar. sunroof is a different story :P
  3. JeepcoMJ

    Flat towing

    on the flying thing...my dad sells motors for ultralights. rotax snowmobile motors are "ideal" and highly used for them. gonna be honest, you'd never get me in the air in anything powered by rotax. I don't consider them well-built or reliable on the ground, so i wouldn't wanna be UP with them. i like skydiving and hangliding though...it's hella cool to do, try it! none of that had anything to do with balance. sorry.
  4. no, i put the glovebox cover and trim piece in it, but to do the dash pad it has to be removed entirely...or i have to tape off a buttload of stuff, and since my dash has developed cracks I am waiting til the 89 is good to drive before I do it. basically I'll be putting the evaporator in the 86 a/c box i have, then i'll yank the dash from project tatersalad and paint it (I broke the headlight switch mount in all the other ones...i may just fix my red one and paint it), and in one go i'll drain my rad. fluid, remove my dash completely, heaterbox completely, swap the 3800 vin onto the new dash, install the a/c/heaterbox, and reinstall. so basically I have a mostly black interior with a blue main dash, steering column, and seatbelts.
  5. welcome, make sure you get the bracket to hold the middle up!
  6. cargo light too please. as long as we're dreaming.... but yeah, anyone on the group if you find anything that could help me with getting ACTUAL black parts that would be great. I mainly want the 3 spoke steering wheel and horn cap right now in black so i can put my other black steering column in it...
  7. I still need the B-pillar trim, rear under-window trim, lower trim, door panels (4 door), and hockey-stick armrests. and I do beg to differ...I worked on a 88 4.0 with an original black interior. the guy junked it later when it threw a rod :headpop: and didn't even call me...he got $40 for it and i'd have payed $400 just for the interior.
  8. I've seen them and it's gonna be more trouble than it's worth...you would have to cut your headliner in the middle, install the speaker integrated thing, and fiberglass the headliner back together...the xj one won't fit the window/rear curvature of the comanche, and it's just not the rignt contours on the front edge. easiest is the speakerbar, and for the trouble, you can cut the speakerbar up like we did and position the speakers as desired, then fiberglass the hole thing and not have to mess ONCE with reforming the main backboard.
  9. good memory! yep, we did it. the older style fits the contour of your truck very well with minimal trimming, and the bracket that holds the center of it up just glues to the metal behind your headliner. you can position it as needed, and then you only need to recover the sound bar to match your headliner. you can sorta see it here. that also shows the sub box we built and the holes he was originally gonna put the OHC speakers in...til i brought up this idea. this is what we ended up doing...he wanted the OHC and didn't need the rear dome light. still not done...he doesn't know how to fiberglass and until he's willing to sit down and learn, i'm not teaching him.
  10. it's not that it isn't forum-approved. innovation is key. it's simply fact that the comanche lines rust and that in that situation and most situations, it's completely un-productive to try to re-use it if it's bad and needs to be torn apart...
  11. learned on my dad's tractors...at the age of 6. couldn't reach the pedals then so i sat in my dad's lap and steered and worked the shifter...that was all concept then got a sandrail when i was 9 and I built up the vw 1600cc dualport and a 6-rib 5 speed vw bus tranny and drove'r round the farm. then on a 77 j200 with a 360 to drive to the end of the driveway in the winter and wait for the bus...@ age of 11. driving stick isn't so hard, and actually going through the motions ain't so bad either. it's the concept of WHEN to shift and HOW to let go of the clutch that's a problem. she needs to drive offroad to grasp it. then graduate to road and starting/stopping on hills.
  12. dude, just take in the vacuum canister to the local parts store. compare sizes and get the right one, buy extra.
  13. agreed, the suitable upgrade is to replace it with a xj prop valve (located at the brake booster). Eagle posted up an exact way to set it up recently, but I'm sorry...i don't know how it's supposed to be hooked up. the FIRST thing I do to all of my comanches that are getting a lift or being used regularly, is just chop out the rear valve, known as the proportioning valve. putting one from an xj in ensures that it "works", and usually brake lines need replacing anyways. I believe that you may have it hooked up correctly and just didn't bleed it properly...there's a wicked long bleeding procedure for the prop. valve. again, ask Eagle
  14. If ya remember, I put a new tranny in a 1995 2 door cherokee a while back. well, it's making grinding/whumping noises from the bellhousing now. the torque converter could be lose or the flexplate broke, but I'm leaning towards shoddy tranny :(
  15. aaaand prep. I did. probably not as much as I should have, but IDC really cause this interior is mostly temporary...I will find the parts in black eventually and just swap them then.
  16. Doh! Here I was thinking jeepco found some secret parts source... "shhhh, don't tell the new guy about mfpdm" Gawd! :bowdown: haha, i have a few sources up my sleeve...a few locals who are jeep fans :D one of them has 17 FSJ's, one comanche, and 7 cherokees. i'll end up with the comanche eventually, and it's rust-free but an auto 2.8
  17. JeepcoMJ

    Co2 tanks?

    It's nice, i can't see the page but it looks like a smaller unit..., but ya might as well save up the extra $400 for a bigger one. you won't be happy with the small amount of work you can do with a "smaller" one. we're buying my dad a hardly used upright permanent air compressor that's 100 gallon with a single stage 3 rotor pump. wish it were dual stage but w/e.
  18. OK, they take the fun out of MOST everything. they're good for other stuff :D i hate going to shoe stores...i've had my shoes for 5 years and will keep wearing them until they fall completely apart. lingerie stores are good tho, and swim suit stores :D
  19. as stated above you can remove it via firewall and steering pump. meaning without removing steering column. I don't like to remove these without replacing the column too...it's too much hassle to re-align it. why do you need a NEW one? matter of fact, how the heck are ya having problems with your current one? If i may ask
  20. I don't have a wife. my ex hated it cause i spent more of "her" (meaning i earned it) $$$ on it than on her. my mom thinks it's nice but really doesn't want to hear about it or see it, and the new chica i'm sorta seeing likes it but idk if she will like offroading yet.... girls take all the fun out of everything...
  21. yes, you need a ax5 manual transmisssion for the 4wd (if you want 4wd), and you'll need a new clutch and pressure plate for the ax5 as well as the ax5 throw-out bearing (included in a clutch kit but I have a new one if you'd need it). it's basically bolt-in, the clutch pedal/brake assembly basically bolts in, and you'd just remove the auto tranny shifter to open the hole up. fairly straightforward swap to the ax5 if you have a donor vehicle or get everything you could need from a donor vehicle (and remember what it all does). also replace the throwout bearing while you're at it, and a new slave cylinder might be recommended. get a 3.4 for the tranny you want...manual or auto. otherwise like i said you CAN put the 2.8 flywheel/flexplate on it, but it has to be machined to be neutrally balanced. getting a complete parts camaro is best...otherwise you will want to pull it yourself at the yard to insure that you get everything wire-wise. the engine computer is inside the engine compartment on the 3.4 and 3.4 camaro/firebird, and a good spot for it in the comanche is right in front of your heater fan. needed are the electric fan(s), relay center, battery wires, all wires to engine computer, engine itself, fuel injection system, and thats about it. upgrade t o new fuel lines, and you will need either an in-tank fuel pump, or an in-line one. I am running a in-line fuel pump from a 1988 ford 5.9 (or 5.8???) v8. it really should have a 2.5 fuel pump as a pre-pump in it. a 2.5 fuel pump will not produce enough pressure to work with the 3.4, and the 2.8's mechanical fuel pump cannot be fitted to the 3.4 as the 3.4 is not machined for a mechanical pump though it is the same block. hope that all helps, if you need anything let me know as I have followed this project alot since i was going to do it, and we may be doing it to beaterjeep's 1986 longbed if we don't go TBI from a s10 2.8. his 2.8 is already bored to a 3.2 and just needs a new rear main...so we're thinkin of just fixing it and FI it it'll out-perform a stock 2.8 and get 15mpg.
  22. the steering shaft from the steering wheel to the steering box? go to the junkyard. be mindful that you will need to re-align the steering wheel to the front end if you replace this. one bolt on the back at the firewall, one bolt on the front by the steering box, take out the bolts, and pry it off by wedging a straight cro-bar (if it breaks free you don't want it to come lose and damage the hood or you) between the shaft and the box or firewall, and pull it away. it collapses to fit.
  23. haha, the fun part, time part, and organising while disassembling part pisses me off. there is NO need for a carb to have that much vacuum crap. I didn't say it can't be done or isn't doable, I've done it myself on my 2.8 carb and for the meazly .5 mpg increase it wasn't worth the time.
  24. JeepcoMJ

    roll bar ???

    not a problem. i'll talk to him tomorrow i think
  25. JeepcoMJ

    roll bar ???

    Alex isn't online right now...his computer is down, so he can only sign into msn with his xbox 360. he hasn't been on the site for 2 months almost but I talk to him fairly regularly. I will make sure to ask and will post the info if he's got it. also, i'm heading to his house in july to pick up all of his comanche parts...and I mean everything. he's just keeping his comanche, and probably one of his motors so that he can pull the jasper and rebuild it. he's getting a rust-free shortbed comanche box from me in exchange, along with a new driver's side cab corner and rocker panel that I plasma'd off of a parts truck I had.
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